Drill the base and drill the antler. Epoxy, JB Weld, or Bondo a piece of square tubing, yes square into the skull, let it cure. Set the antler on top, mark where it is supposed to be, take it back off and add Bondo to the hole in the antler. Slide the antler over the square tube that is already Bondo'd into the skull plate and is already dry. Make sure the square tube has been cleaned so the Bondo will adhere to it. Now line up your marks where the antler is supposed to be and let it cure. The antler will not spin because of the square tube inside, even if it doesn't bond really well, you will never know because it won't move being square. This is the short version of how we do Moose antlers in Alaska. Same process we use for deer, elk, etc. I prefer Bondo over epoxy or JB Weld. Lay the rack on the ground so the back of the antlers are even. Getting the drill angle correct is the most important part. Move the antlers around until they are lined up and before the Bondo cures. Mix the Bondo with a little bit of hardener so it does not set up before you get the rack set correctly. Better to cure for a day then to set up before you have it correct and then you have to start all over.
We do the same thing for removable antlers on a moose. Just wrap the square tube in plastic wrap or coat it in wax so the Bondo will not adhere but will leave the square hole left in the antler base. The square tube stays in the skull plate. The antlers just slide over the square tube since there is a square hole in the antlers now. Yes, square hole. It mates to the square tubing. The antlers won't spin and if you need to move the animal, just lift the antlers off and move the mount then add the antlers back on top after. You ever wonder how they got a 6 foot wide rack through a 30 inch door? Removable rack.
Kind of confusing but really easy. Everyday thing in a taxidermy shop. Your local guy can show you how. You can do it yourself. Pencil, Bondo, plastic wrap or wax, square tube and a drill. Easy.
Questions, holler back.