What’s everyone using for foundation pillars for remote cabin building, was going to take in cement pads this winter and treated posts just wondering if there is anything better, for frost heaving the cabin in the winters? Anybody use adjustable teleposts like these?

Air hammer and drill casing from the oil fields. Pilings go below the frost so they're much less likely to heave, and if one does all I have to do is torch it short, re-level that part of the cabin, and weld the piling back together at the correct elevation

In Alaska, I contacted the Alaska Housing Finance division. On their website that have information on the foundations that are Bank Approved for loans. If you build like they suggest, a bank will finance the sale of your remote building. I did. The taxes are more, but I can walk away and get my money back when I am done with my cabin.

I had to dig 15 holes by hand. 3 foot x 3 foot and 5 foot deep. I used the sno go in winter to haul in 5280 pounds of Traction Sand in 60 pound sacks. A lot of work.
Then I put in two bags of rocks in the bottom of the hole, packed it down. Drove to the river, hauled loads of boulders back to the cabin site, filled a layer of boulders over the smaller rock.
Layer after layer, until I topped each hole off with another couple of bags of Traction Sand. This is crushed rock, little square pieces. It will pack down like cement. If you use round rocks, your foundation will just keep sinking into the dirt. Use the Traction Sand to take up the space in between the layers of boulders.

Then I built a All Weather Wood pad, layered it up, put a 6 inch saddle bracket on top, then ran my beams in the brackets. The 4 inch deck beams will not support a cabin. Get the 6 inch, adjustable, galvanized and put some grease on the threads before you adjust the cabin height.

I would think you would have something or someone to contact that would help you if you want to go this way. You can always check the website I mentioned to see what they allow here. It will give you some good ideas.

The pilings ATT mentioned above are really nice. If you can get the machine to the site that put's the pilings in, your golden. Way less work, last's forever, won't rot, etc. etc. fantastic in wet areas too. I am not sure if they are bank approved yet here in Alaska. I think they are the best option if you can swing it and get the bank to approve it. Tell the tax man, so he records it correctly.

The support you posed, will only hold a deck, not a cabin. Says right in the title, deck support. You want the galvanized, adjustable 6 inch, that goes inside a much bigger cement block. You don't use the regular size cement block for decks, it's bigger than that. SBS in Wasilla Alaska carries them if you want to look them up or call them for info. They do not stock them in Anchorage. Only in Wasilla, for remote cabin buildings. Hope this helps you get the cabin built.

You can get heavier duty adjustable pilings similar to the picture you posted. I use wood blocking myself.

In an ideal situation you want to drive the pilings with an excavator and a hydraulic hammer, they go deeper faster and it's a lot less labor intensive. But if you don't have that kind of access (I don't) get the biggest air hammer you think you can lift/hang onto, and a big enough compressor to run it, and haul it out in a freight sled. I'd recommend 3.5" pipe minimum for a cabin, if you're going small (like shed size) you can get away with 2.5" or 2 7/8". You can get them about 30' down in most ground, I have a couple that went 50' close to the beaver pond by the back corner of my building pad. Get your pipe cut into 10' sticks so you can reach the top off a short ladder, standing on a snow go, whatever you gotta do. Drive each stick until you have about a foot sticking out, weld on another stick and keep driving until it won't go anymore, then cut them all at the same elevation once they all get to the point of refusal (means they won't drive any more). Then you just weld whatever brackets you want to set your beams in onto the tops of your pipes. You can even add adjustable brackets if you like, but you really don't need to

Larch or cedar for sill logs......I guess "remote" means different things to different people...i have used half logs dry and heavily painted with preservative then nailed rolled roofing on the flat side.....works fine in well drained ground with good roof overhang.....raising a building of the ground is not for me because then you open it to porkys getting under there.....then you will have to insulated the elevated floor and that is not something I would want to deal with in a remote area....to each there own....I cut my own lumber with a chainsaw mill setup but I do haul in roofing because no cedars to make shakes in my area....

For a Cabin-wood blocking.(tarred or creosoted)You can shim if it heaves bad.