Haha I’ll stick to the 9’s. Just trying to weigh all my options seems like there’s way more options than when I bought my first few! Which wasn’t that long ago!

Might try some smaller LPC traps for wolverine sets kinda dual purpose if a wolf decides to step into it.

I owned pretty much all the above-mentioned wolf traps at one time or another, (except the Duke). I never liked having a hodge-podge of traps of any size or style, as it was sometimes a goat rope with different boxes, conibears stabilizers, chain/cable, etc. If all my 120's were the same, so where my boxes. Easy in, easy out. One less thing.
Same with footholds. I would typically buy one of each brand, say beaver footholds, try each one out, pick what worked best for me, sell the others, then buy bulk in my favorite.
For wolf traps, I had done the same thing and fell in love with the KORO #9 immediately. It did take something serious for me to part with the others, but the KORO, with the dogless setup, is something else, and only the Alaska #9 can compare.
All that said, your traps will all catch wolves, OJ. Keep up the good work. Proud to see you still have GRIT!

SEAK sets are a dicey deal. I am sold on the Koros above the 22’ line. Anything under that gets a cheap trap.

What’s a SEAK set?

South east Alaska

gcs is correct. The land of freeze/thaw and setting for wolves on beaches. Our wolf sets basically fall into two categories. One is a tide set which is going to be under the ocean water for significant time. The benefit is that it might stay working by not becoming iced in. The second is a dry set. Those may be snowed/iced in with a quickness.

The freeze thaw is the major set killer. I have had 3 wolves step directly on frozen down traps that were set less than a week prior with the classic wax paper routine; over the last 2 years. Then I step all over them. Not a chance they’re going off…. Chip out with the hatchet and reset.

Yep, it can be an exercise in futility. But, it’s always a good day when those dry sets work.

Koro’s and #9’s are what I prefer for the dry sets. I had been using the Sleepy Creek 4.5 for the tide sets. The SC’s are about at end of life and I am up in the air on what to replace them with, kind of a creature of habit and wish I could find more. Whatever I end up with I will be trying Rosscoak’s sacrificial anode trick. It makes sense.

It's probably been done but would powder coating traps help with the corrosion?

When we ran galvanized crab pots a wired on zinc helped reduce the corrosion, the wired on zincs would work, no need to weld them on, or theres bolt on zincs, just need a good metal to metal contact.

I meant to edit earlier but want all to see. I am/was by NO MEANS a wolf trapper. What little experience and
knowledge I possess was learned by my own failures and other's successes.

How big of a Zinc are people using? Also as far as rebar drags go is there a better design for the big critters?

Big and heavy, there is a local guy who makes drags out of 1/2"x1 1/2" flat steel that weigh over 8# per drag, they are a really nice wolf grapple, as long as you don't have to pack many very far. I make mine out of 5/8" rebar and I don't remember the dimensions off the top of my head, but they are roughly twice the length of the MTP drags and a lot heavier.