I have a double door comstock set at the entry point. I made visual contact with the mother in the attic and could hear the young.

How long generally before a mother will exit the attic? I have heard 24-48 hours.

Our first step is always to use biological eviction material placed near the nest site and exit/entry areas. If done early in the rearing cycle she will typically move them. Seal up the structure if possible, done deal.

Trapping and finding the young can be a head ache at times. But that is something you will learn as you grow. Put a camera on the entry point and watch her carry them out to be sure after using the material.

I actually did apply eviction fluid directly at the entrance, no change and she didn’t leave. Set up the trap yesterday.

If it isn't near the nest site it may take a while for her to find or react to the scent. Always try to get your scent near as possible to the nesting / nursing female.

There isn't much air movement in attics or confined spaces so getting the scent as close as possible to the nursing site is important.

Many don't really understand how this biological reaction material works. A glandular formula gets a much faster and better response. Just like any trapping if they can't see or smell a specific odor there is a good chance they won't react to it.

Ok, do you apply it to some cotton or paper towel type material to hold the scent?

Otherwise how long would you expect to wait until she leave the attic to forage for food etc? Like any creature they have to leave sometime

I bought eviction fluid from Bob last year and followed his advice throwing a tennis ball on a sting with fluid near the nest. I had trail cam video that night of the mom leaving with all the kits. This was late in the rearing season too.

If the timing is right she should move in a nite or two. I have had some females move pups during the day soon after the application. Felt or heavy cotton will hold scent well and long enough for a reaction to occur.

Ok. Even with the eviction fluid isn’t it ultimately better to try and catch the animal? That way you can guarantee that it will not come back to the same house.

Every situation is different, every raccoon is different. Some will leave just by looking at them, others are stubborn. What I've done plenty of times is catch her alive. Harass her in the cage (roll cage, shake her, yell at her, etc), let her go on site and chase her out of the yard. In most cases she will come back that night and move the pups. I like to know where the pups are beforehand just in case it doesn't work, then the option is a 160 over the hole and remove the pups. But, then it's just easier to remove them when she's in a cage anyway.

A couple years ago I had one that wouldn't leave for anything. And she moved her pups within the house twice before I could get to them. Had to catch her twice, but in the meantime, I harassed her after first catch, set up a shock track to zap her every time she came out or went in, used the eviction paste in the attic and around the entry. She was stubborn. Had my camera set up to record her. She would jump every time she got zapped, but it didn't faze her.

If we use eviction paste we smear it all over the entrance so it gets all over her as she enters/exits. I guess it probably gets smeared all over the nest site when she tries to nurse too. It seems to work.

I had one in a chimney earlier. I used half of an old kitchen sponge and smeared eviction fluid on the chimney flu. I dropped the sponge down on her and set a camera up on the roof. She left with the pups in the middle of the day.

Any noticeable difference between the paste and the fluid?

Once the coon leaves with pups or caught and pups are taken out you still need to do a good repair. That will tell you if you get another entry if you get a call back. Always do an over kill repair or you will be going back if another coon finds it convienent to make it their home or nest site.

agreed

I use this method and it's always worked for me .

None that I can tell. I use the fluid to soak sponges/tennis balls and the paste to wipe around openings hoping she'll get some on her.

question to all, what if you caught the mother in a cage, and covered her with the eviction fluid/paste, then released her back on site? It seems as though that would be a surefire way to get her to move inaccessible young?

Seems like a lot of work to train a raccoon.

Well if the pups are inaccessible and you’d have to release her anyways, it seems worth a try to go the extra step and cover her with the eviction fluid

Use strips of treated rags attached to the over head and bottom area of the entry/exit area and she will get it on herself. No need to catch her in my experience. Like I said most don't know how use the material to its maximum benefit with the least amount of effort in most cases.

She will get the point from just trace odor and react quickly in most cases. This is all instinctual protective survival behavior for her litters safety.

You will find that many female raccoon with litters are quite shy of traps and unfamiliar objects that they deem presents a threat to them. Some lay up for days at a time nurseing and grooming the pups before venturing out to forage for food.

I have some videos of pups being moved just a few hours after application of BioEviction material. I don't know how to post videos. If someone has that knowledge I can email them to post them for others to see.

Got a coon in a friends shed. Afraid it may have just had kittens or will be? Coons got to go now. Set a cage for her doubt if I will have easy access to kittens if she has some.!In a position where I’m guessing they will be too small to even move around. Not sure if I can see an option to just letting them die?

Our first choice is always Bio Eviction material for any birthing or nursing momma coon in a structure. If you get near her nest site or point of entry just treat the areas as best you can and nature will do the rest. Many move within a few hours of application.

Bob, is that your first option when you're not sure if it's a female or not. I looked at a job today, raccoon tore down a couple feet of soffit. There's no access to the attic space. I assume it's a female with pups, just because of the time of year. A tenant says, through landlord, that he saw multiple coons on the 3rd floor deck, which would indicate boars. But, are they there because they are the problem, or there to invade the nest? Options are, catch whatever comes out and go from there. Use bio eviction and see if it works, or set up a camera and see how many come out. Sometimes trying to be fast and efficient isn't fast or efficient. Oh, and it's 40'+ up, or 10' off the deck but not directly over the deck.

Each circumstance can vary as stated. Some situations can be suspected and assumed and some based upon factual visual information. Cams are one of our best tools to use in these situations. I would have liked to have had them years ago.

Trapping is always an option. If captures are made sexing is important to determine the next steps. A large percent of the structural and chimney coons are usually females about to birth or already have. However the boars are still searching for her scent and potential kits.

Without any supporting information to verify a female and pups, I treat what I can reach and set up cams to review the reaction if any. It is certainly the most practical and easier step at first.

Just educate the client as to your methods so they understand and don't get impatient and begin to hassle you to do something else until you feel it is time to trap if needed.

Momma coons will lay up for quite a few days before foraging for food and water again, once they give birth. Once they have had enough nursing initially they will venture out.

Great info Bob, thanks a ton

I like the paste directly on the entrance. She will get some on her and cannot stand it. I like the fluid for soaking rags, tennis balls, etc. I reuse these items if I can retrieve them. I store them in a ziplock bag.