I have two batches of beaver tail oil sun rendering in half gallon jars, a 50/50 mixture of ground beaver castor/100 proof vodka in half gallon jar, and 50/50 mixture of full ground beaver sacks/100 proof vodka in a half gallon jar. I plan to render/tincture for 6 months. I will filter and store liquid when its finished but my question is what to do with the solid portion that's left?

The solids from the beaver tail oil renderings can be kept and used as a base for predator lures. For the castor and oil sacs sometimes they can be tinctured again but only if all the essence has not been extracted in the first tincturing. I'm sure others with more insight and experience will be able to help further. Typically I will cover with just enough pure grain alcohol or high proof vodka to cover the material, then once to the strength I am satisfied with I pour the tincture off and add equal parts glycerine. I hope this helps and I have not given any incorrect information.

Never seen a need to tinture castor or oil sacs myself. Can u get the alcohol and sac oil to mix good enough to tinture decently?

Yes sir, the ground beaver castor tinctures very well. After sitting overnight, the ground oil sacs separate nicely. The solids settle at the bottom, a clear alcohol layer forms in the middle, and the oil rises to the top. My goal is to separate the oil completely from the solids, pour off the pure oil, and then use the remaining alcohol layer as a secondary tincture with a milder scent.

The oil sacs seem to always take a little longer than the castor to really pull everything out. I use it mainly as a subtle odor in predator formulations. Water or land animal it seems they all are attracted to beaver scents. I'm always tinkering with new tinctures/bases. This is a addictive hobby forsure.

Do u use alcohol as a tinture material for sac oil too?

Tinctured beaver castor is a good ingredient in liquid lures.

Tinctured beaver castor is a good ingredient in liquid lures.

I believe he is talking about drained oil sacs being tinctured. I see no use for tinctureing sac oil.

Yes I could see if that was ur goal. My only experience is predator formulations and none are liquid.

I use pure grain alcohol on them. It is not a ingredient I use a lot just one more way I tried utilizing it. I use ground sac and oil for the tincture not pure drained. I might have to try the pure drained and see how it compares.

Are you grinding full sacs and then tinturing

Yes, I'm grinding the full oil sacks and tincturing in 100 proof alcohol. I will try to get some pictures tonight. I made up some bait/lure that is beaver meat-based and added ground castor, a squirt of sac oil, and glycerin to it. It works great. I also have some ground beaver castor with glycerin and a squirt of sack oil that I use for castor mound sets. I'm wanting to make up a couple of liquid lures that are either oils or tinctures that I can use in a squirt bottle on T-bone sets or rocks. The liquid lures seem to work very well in my area in combination with a skunky bait.

That is how I do it. Then just enough alcohol to just barely cover and let it go. Once done I strain then mix with an equal amount of glycerine.

Here's my thoughts,
If you need liquid sac oil just squeeze it out of the sacs other wise just grind sac and all and use as is. Considering you're trying to combine a water soluble material with an oil base material you could be doing more harm than good. Sac oil isn't what I consider a over powering material that needs to be cut usually. If you want a subtle odor of it in a predator formulation just use a small amount of it.

I feel the same way with castor, unless your have a real need for it in liquid form there's not much need to tinture it. Just use a small amount for a subtle odor. Castor is a bit more powerful so sometimes in a predator formulation you may need a very small amount but castor does bleed though a mix pretty well by just stirring it a few times every week or so.

My thought is the original material will endure longer in the formulation at the set in its natural state.

Just my experience with these 2 products when it comes to predator baits and lures.

If nothing else find a tinture material that is compatible with the mother material

A good tincture should not be stratified as I see in your batches. The macerated material should be on top, while the active solids of the mother material will or should remain on the bottom. After aggitation the actives should settle once again in several hours or more.

That time depends upon how fine the mother material has been prepped or if it is just rough cut, it will settle more quickly. That way you can easily draw off the extracted material without any solids to filter out, unless that is your desired result.

Powdered castor, tinctured castor, raw castor and ground castor paste all have their place in formulation work. The challenge is knowing which will serve your desired result the best. Fluid lures, paste lures and baits all can use something in a different delivery mode and strength.