I am no newbie to trapping but have a question about something that has troubled me since day one. Coons destroying even the sturdiest live traps. I know other traps are an option but have done nuisance work where they are one of the few options. When checking traps sitting over night I always try to check them just before sun rise. But have had issues when checking to early (due to work) and a critter gets in the trap after check. Then it is lunch or after work for next check and that is when I get the most damage issues. The only relief I have had is when the trap is somewhat covered (like a piece of plywood over top). I am assuming they feel more comfortable (less exposed) and will sleep the time away. Any other ideas that work for you?

If your cages have rod doors, the coons concentrate most of they efforts trying to escape through the bars and not digging into the corners of the cage wire. Not good if the cage is somewhere that whatever they reach outside the cage door is important, but great in all other locations.

I have had a raccoon get out of a Wickencamp cage trap by going through the welded rod door. Sturdy door but the raccoon just pulled and pulled the rods until they bent. Eventually a weld broke and the animal got free. Trap was checked every 24hrs , but it was the customer's responsibility to keep an eye on things in my absence. This one customer failed and waited too long to contact me , animal was lost and trap messed up.

The only thing that will stop a good sized coon from trashing your traps is watching them more closely.

Could try putting a toy in the trap for the coon to focus on. A piece of pvc pipe, golf ball, empty bait container.

^THIS^

12.5 ga zink/aluminum coated wire 1X2 won’t break never had a coon damage a cage made from that stuff.

Truth ADC

Take the vinyl cover off of the nearby BBQ grill and put it on the ground near the cage. The raccoon will spend all of its efforts to shred that cover into small enough bits to fit the entire cover inside of the cage trap. It will then be too exhausted to muscle its way out of the trap.
You are welcome.

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That’s because they can get their arm out. You need to attach wire…

Those coon cage escapee's must be a lot bigger than mine.....Ours almost never hit 20#, never had one get out, roll , or damage a cheap Duke live trap.

We always cover all traps as a means of not showing the catch to anyone. I learned long ago to place something as stated inside the traps as a torture toy to occupy their time and to provide something to focus their attention upon while in the cage for several hours.

A trap cover helps the animal feel hidden and somewhat secure. They will work that trap for a long time as most of us have seen over the years, they will grab for anything within their range of reach. All these things will help reduce trap damage. Keep in mind when you set a trap what is there for them to get at.

The pro model traps have a smaller grid wire on the bottom and up the sides of the trap which reduces reach and grab access greatly.

Thanks for the input. Never thought or read about putting a item inside the trap to occupy their attention. Digging out the golf balls today. Love this site!

A hot dog size stick or two will allow them to chew and roll it around at their amusement and frustration.

You lose the bigger ones you want to keep and the smaller ones are waiting for you that are low value with weak traps. A big coon here can make a cheap trap into parts overnight.

So true.

Southern raccoon go through the plywood on roofs so it's not a size thing.

Especially with a little lure on it

Recurring theme among the backyard chicken crowd is coon killed chickens, so they put out a cage trap.....usually mass market trap found locally at box stores.........and catch him....short term until he blows out the door to get out. Now what? Until someone has seen what a motivated coon can do, they can't possibly appreciate what it takes to hold one. Cheap cage traps will hold barn cats, possum, skunk and young coon. Big coon? No. Until one puts a trap like a Tomahawk or Wickencamp up next to a box store cage trap, you don't appreciate the difference in build specs. One is light duty.....one is heavy duty. The difference is usually found in the doors.

When we first moved to current location, place came with 4 barn cats. Feed setup was a self feeder in the barn. Feed sack kept in a 30 gallon plastic trash can. It had a small vent hole in the lid. Coon chewed that enough it could get a paw thru it, then reached thru and attempted to pull a 20 pound sack of cat food thru a 1 inch hole. He got 5 or 6 inches of feed sack thru it. I found it that way.......laughed a bit, then tried to push it back out. Wouldn't go out. I lifted the lid and bag was so jammed up it pulled the entire sack of cat food up with it. Finally had to get a punch to push corner of the bag back out. I don't think I could have pulled that much bag out with vice grips and most of my weight behind it. Coon really wanted that sack of cat food.

And if it matters, also helps to have 1/2" x 1" wire on sides.....at least along the bottom. Otherwise, you will find a 6 inch moat dug around the cage and all of that dirt and junk piled up inside the cage. Only downside to smaller wire is it makes it harder to get a clean shot thru the smaller opening.

Everyone thinks they lost a badger when a cage is destroyed the badger is the least likely suspect with their digging equipment.

Coon cages would be super tough If the builder would use

GAW 1/2" x 1" wire over the frame