Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
#8399547
05/07/25 05:56 PM
05/07/25 05:56 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
2cylinder
OP
trapper
|
OP
trapper
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
|
For most of my deep runs I use 330 deepwater h stands and I’ve had a lot of success with them but I have a few 1216’s that fit some runs really nice but they are probably in 5 feet of water maybe a bit more and I struggle to find a good way to stabilize them in those deep runs like I can all of my 330’s. Just curious if anyone has experience in stabilizing these big things in deep runs.
Rebuilding john deere and international/farmall carburetors
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: 2cylinder]
#8399568
05/07/25 06:55 PM
05/07/25 06:55 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2014
Alaska
Super Wide
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Jan 2014
Alaska
|
MTP has a stabilizer that is made for them. I have a dozen. However, they have short legs, not long enough for your use. But you could add some steel to lengthen them or buy one and use it as a pattern and make your own longer.
I have not tried these traps for what you are doing. I use them for wolverine. I like the short legs and use them in a cubby. I can replace one easily on the short stand too. My stands are frozen into the earth all season long.
If I had the same problem, and did not have a metal stabilizer, I would build a "A" Frame out of nearby poles and drop it in the run or over the door. Then I would find a way to make some metal stands instead of using wood. Check out MTP, maybe they are building longer ones by now. Good luck, hope you find some that will work for you. Let us all know where you find them.
My Super Wide will pull your broken down 4 stroke, up a hill backwards, with you on it!
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: 2cylinder]
#8399611
05/07/25 07:48 PM
05/07/25 07:48 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2006
NWWA/AZ
Vinke
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
NWWA/AZ
|
Never cared for the 1216s….
Ant Man/ Marty 2028 just put your ear to the ground , and follow along
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: Vinke]
#8399625
05/07/25 08:12 PM
05/07/25 08:12 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
2cylinder
OP
trapper
|
OP
trapper
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
|
Never cared for the 1216s…. I know some people have that opinion. In the few years that I’ve had them I’ve had good luck with them at castor mounds and shallow runs. Which is why I wanted to try them in deeper runs
Rebuilding john deere and international/farmall carburetors
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: loosanarrow]
#8399705
05/07/25 09:08 PM
05/07/25 09:08 PM
|
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
2cylinder
OP
trapper
|
OP
trapper
Joined: Aug 2014
SE MN
|
I made 6 foot H stands for them using 7/16” cold finish rod. You have to have metal cutting/welding capability to do that though.
I had misses with 1216’s in runs until I loosened the hinge bolts so they were 100% free swinging because mine were a little snug from the factory, and waxed them (just clean the wax off of trigger area).
There is one other factor that I think might help with my setup - the 7/16” smooth rod binds just a bit between the hinge bolts and the sides of the spring eyes, so that there is good amount of extra pressure on the jaws when set on the H stand. This provides extra “jump speed” during that critical first bit of travel as the jaws close which speeds them up quite a bit.
The ones I have were noticeably slow out of the box, like watch them close slow, and I had a lot of misses and tail catches until I loosened the bolts and waxed them. That made them a good trap, and on my 7/16 rod H stands they are plenty fast.
I do still get some hip and tail catches on smaller beavers, I attribute that to the size and the fact that the triggers cant cover the whole space tight enough and they just dont hit the trigger until they are too far through.
I have come to like the 1216, and I choose which size BG to use based on the width of the run. But really I only run 3 sizes - Sauvageau 1113’s, MB 1216’s, and the big wide 660’s that RBG makes. Truth is I dont use BGs much because so much of my work is done in warm weather and turtles clog them horribly. Footholds set deep for back feet and snares are 80% or more for me. Thanks for the info! I do have welding and cutting capabilities in the shop and maybe if I can find some material that size I’ll play around and just copy a similar design of the 330 ones I have
Rebuilding john deere and international/farmall carburetors
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: 2cylinder]
#8399729
05/07/25 09:35 PM
05/07/25 09:35 PM
|
Joined: Dec 2006
NWWA/AZ
Vinke
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
NWWA/AZ
|
I made a jig that the frame could be bent around. I layer a stabilizer on a piece of 1/4 inch flat stock and welded short vertical 1/2 inch rebar at the bends and mid sections. I also welded a tab on the jig so I could clamp it into a vice. The more verticals the nice the bend…..
Ant Man/ Marty 2028 just put your ear to the ground , and follow along
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: 2cylinder]
#8399862
Yesterday at 06:30 AM
Yesterday at 06:30 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2006
Northern Maine
Bruce T
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Northern Maine
|
Love mb12x16's for the bigger runs and channels.I just use a pole thru each spring eye.Then another smaller pole thru each spring half way after set.
NRA,NTA,MTA,FTA
#1 goal=Trap a wolverine
|
|
|
Re: Deep Water MB1216 trap stabilizing
[Re: 2cylinder]
#8400296
Yesterday at 09:25 PM
Yesterday at 09:25 PM
|
Joined: Mar 2014
Lakes Region Indiana
loosanarrow
trapper
|
trapper
Joined: Mar 2014
Lakes Region Indiana
|
Here is a photo Mike. It starts to bind up on the first notch, second notch is maybe double the normal amount of pressure to hold the jaws. It is easier to do by lowering the trap in place with the safety on, then set the trigger. In deep water I usually pull the whole stand up, but if I am using them in shallow water under 30” or so deep, i will often set the trap and take the safety off and then lower it onto the stand, which requires pulling the sides of the H stand apart a bit to get the the trap to fall onto the pegs, then I give them a good squeeze to tighten them into the bind. But the best is to lower the trap onto the stand and then set it so it binds nice and tight. It really jumps when triggered, and that is the most important moment because as the springs move the increase “torque”. The 1216’s have a lot of steel which equates to a lot of inertia resisting the springs right at first. Having that extra pressure from the bind makes them plenty fast. Maybe still not as fast as a Sauvageau 11x13, but fast enough. A picture is worth a thousand words. Or two sentences if your name is Vinke…. ![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2025/05/full-40497-257283-img_6647.jpeg)
|
|
|
|
|