Ok gang,,, gotta question,,, I don’t catch a lot of skunk so I’m not an authority on them. I have caught skunks in dogproofs and I have caught them in cages..
Which one is a skunk more likely to work? The dogproof or the cage trap?

Both are adequate, location will determine whether or not I use cages. My preference is DPs due to the ease to set and ability to run a larger quantity. Cages for residential or when I may be concerned with incidentals. I wish I was more productive with each type as they both have tips and tricks associated with their use. ADC page will be full of good info on the traps and there is a guy on here from New Jersey (maybe) who is, as far as I'm concerned, a expert with DPs.

Good Luck

What he said.

A 160 bodygrip

Tube traps are very effective for stinkers.

Depends what you plan to do with them I like cages to collect the essence and sell the better ones in perfect condition.

It all depends on the location, and what you can and can't do.
DP's work about the same as a foothold.
You really only have one choice on what's next.
A cage gives you many more options.
And most cases for urban areas, the way to go.
Many on here have removed skunks without any offensive orders , by using a blanket or something to cover and calm the skunk.
I've caught a lot of skunks on cheap canned cat food, they go around the cage until they find the way in.
I also use dry cat food sprinkled around and leading into the cage.
Seldom had a problem catching a skunk when it's hungry.
When borrowed up, and with young, it's a little more containment to block them into your cage.

Just to add..
If I'm purposely using DPs for skunks I lean them at a 45° angle. It seems to help those short legged stinkers get in them easier.

X2

I use cages on them, tube traps are great for skunks. I hauled a big one true the Wilcox family log home with no issues. Crawl space in master bedroom. Dave was a hall of fame lineman in the NFL, Justin coaches the Cal bears, and Josh played for Oregon and then the Canadian league I think before pro wresting. So you know it’s a pretty nice place. I have a go to sleep box so prefer cages.

wws

One thing with tube traps, be sure and secure them so they can’t roll over or they will get out, I have had that happen and they don’t seem to mind going back in.

wws

Use tube's pretty much exclusively for stinkers, don't have to worry about them spraying and without them spraying means more essence to extract, plus don't have to worry about having to change clothes before getting back into the rig.
Made mine out of 6 inch aluminum irrigation pipe and welded a piece of flat aluminum bar stock across the bottom to stabilize to prevent roll over

Don’t think most of the skunks here would fit in a tube type of trap.

I agree with Jerry. Although not as digital as his SD skunks, some can be good sized around here. I've been using the 8" poly cage traps with good luck but prefer to us DP's whenever possible. I honestly don't think there is a one trap that works for all situations.

Cage trap
12 x 12 x 24
wrapped with tar paper and duct tape

If they won't come out into a 6" tube that's what I use to finish the skunk job

Caught this skunk
#7
That would not come out through the Dbl. door skunk trap.

but it went into the tar paper wrapped cage trap

For the skunk pole finishing work some traps are less user friendly than other types of cages or trap options. Tube traps make it tough to see what you’re dealing with when using the pole its so dark in the tube picking a spot is tough. Some cages use the reduced size wire spacing at the baited ends to discourage reach ins setting off the traps but makes syringe access impossible. The smaller wires also limit you from up wind options when it’s important due wind direction or working room.

Even 1X1 wire can be tricky to work with and some imported wire is not even 1 inch square by cutting the finger hold tabs off the syringe it can help also or try finding bent any wires that enlarge the holes then tipping the finger tabs on the back of the syringe at a slight angle will get it into the cage easier. Smaller cages make using the pole setup harder than it should be because it restricts movement options a hyper skunk that won’t settle down will test your patience just by moving.

I cut a bar out between 2 meshes over the pan area, helps with trickling some bait in and a little more room for dispatching.

I use mainly 8-inch z-traps, they work great, and I've gotten some big skunks,

This is what I've found to be the most consistent trap around my beehives as well. Other than bears, skunks are about the only critter that messes with a guys beehives. They go into and fit a 160 about perfectly, and at least here, you don't have to check them every day for the welfare of the trapped animal.