I cleaned, dyed and waxed my traps to store them until next season. I plan on putting them in heavy duty Rubbermaid containers and put them in my shed. Is there anything else I need to do? I was wondering if there is something similar to the little moisture packets they put in pill bottles only bigger.

Thanks everyone, I've already learned a bunch of stuff in the short while I've been on here.

If I was you I would go find a tree and hang them up on it

I always try and be wait until right before season to clean/dye/wax to minimize the concern for contamination

Flockbuster, I store in tubs. No problems.
When my tubs were new or replace one or two, I air them out if plastic has strong odor.

would not wax and let sit in a tote for the summer

I always cleaned, waxed, & dyed my canine traps in the spring and stored them in those big Rubbermaid “Brute” garbage cans. I’d throw in on top of them dry leaf litter and in the fall I’d add some fresh leaf litter. As i’m sure you’ve heard how wax picks up odors easily, hence the leaf litter for assurance or feel good BUT I also figure if that is actually the case, the wax on a buried trap would also certainly absorb the smell of the fresh soil pretty darn quick!

I like to let mine hang outside, but if I didn't have a spot to do that I would probably store them in totes. I do store alot of conibears and drowning rigs that way, but I'm assuming the question was in reference to canine traps

Keep in mind you are in SC and your hot, humid summers are a lot different than other parts of the U.S. If you trap air moisture or the temp goes up and down you could have some oxidation and some rust when you pull your traps out in the fall. Did you use logwood (tannic acid) or any vinegar acid on these traps ? Did you neutralize any minute amount of acid remaining with baking soda (Calcium Bicarbonate) prior to waxing? Most folks that experience rust on traps storing as you propose in humid climates have to contend with the tiny amount of acid that remains on the trap and then they seal it in with wax. So recall what you have done before and take each tip from the area guys are living with. ...........................the mike

Wife brought up a good point that I forgot to mention, change of temperature & humidity will cause condensation on lids! All of my big Rubbermaid garbage cans I put several screws in the can’s lip and left them sticking up so though the lid closes, the screws make sure there is a gap/air space between the can lip and the lid edge. This gap allows for air movement preventing condensation from building up on the underside of the lids & sidewalls. I do similar for all of my metal garbage cans that I store my waxed sand & dirt in.

I started using the hinged lid totes you see behind me. They are not air tight and I drill 5/16-3/8” holes in each corner to drain any moisture that may get in them. I learned using them on the four wheeler to carry coyote traps that rain and melting snow will get in. Went to set some traps and had to break them out of the 1” of ice in the bottom. With the holes they’ll drain any moisture that gets in so I don’t have to break ice to free up my traps.

An outfit called Farmplast has them pretty reasonable. I don’t have a good place to hang traps over the summer so these work pretty well. And they aren’t terribly heavy when full of traps.

I've always stored my traps in the same way, which is in totes of many shapes and sizes, but to expand on 'leaf litter' as somebody else mentioned - I stuff the totes with all sorts of pine bows, dry leaves, small twigs, anything natural at all that doesn't have an external odor on it (I try to source all of this material from places that woudn't have K9 urine on it or anything like that). I've always had huge success in my traps not only being scent-free of any human odor but also just having some sort of a 'natural' scent to them when placed in these totes full of natural material for 8-9 months. This is how I've always stored my hunting clothes, too.

It's pretty easy to do any time I pull traps or clothes out of these types of storage, I'm always reminded of how effective I believe it to be. Not an original idea, I believe I got it from somebody on this site many years ago.

I store in totes with a few handfuls of peat moss and dirt mixed in.

I have my K9 traps stored in one of those blue barrels with a pretty airtight lid and ring that goes around it and locks down, I stuffed a 5 gallon bucket or so of hay and dried grass in the bottoms and threw all of my traps on it, I have traps from 2 years ago that I dyed and waxed that still look good. I just dyed them with logwood and Zeps wax.

X2

This is what I do. Pressure wash them after seasons , And right before season I dip and wax.

I dye, wax and tune all of my traps soon as seasons over and Put them in totes with a lid and some sagebrush in them. Store them in my basement along with all of my bait and lure for 6-8 months and never had a problem with them getting dug up.

I try to boil/wax my footholds in August. Then I take them out and hang them on the trap line. My wise teacher said “let them season out there”. It works.

All my water footholds and body grippers are stored in milk cratess and then totes when I run out. I strore my canine traps in covered totes after airing them out. I just use lawn cllippings in those totes.

Bryce

I throw in a couple of those blue heavy duty paper shop towels on top of all my stored traps. This will help to wick what condensation may develop and run down the sides of the containers or drip off the lids.