When you pull soil samples, make sure the lab reports % base saturation numbers. Try to get your Mg % up to 12% or so and Ca+Mg to 75%. The higher Mg level will help to "tighten" the soil and slow the rate of infiltration. Just the opposite of adding Gypsum to heavy clay soils so the Ca can help loosen the soil. You'll also want to add fertilizer, especially N in smaller more frequent applications.

For a soil lab I like Waters Labs and use their lab there in GA.

AgPHD podcast or Kinsey Soil Series podcast

The plots located along the sand ridge on my place are similar to dry beach sand (once disked or roto-tilled.) It’s common to find shark teeth, shell pieces, petrified oysters, etc in the river on one side of the property. So, this is an ancient sand dune/sand bar. But, this sandy dirt packs well after rains. It'll grow food plots, but nutrient leach thru it rapidly, so its rather expensive to manage.

For those curious why you might want a cultipacker..............

That was loose tilled ground.......just drove a tractor over it. Green stripe is where the front wheel packed the soil down. You can even see where the tire ribs were.........that had good weed seed to soil contact. A seed in loose soil is an iffy thing.

I think you made the right choice. The smooth wheeled packers are good for very recently prepared ground; they are a must in sugar sand type soils.

The toothed ones are more realistic, because you may get a rain on the prepared ground and harden it before you have a chance to plant it. The toothed packer will help breaking the crust and insure good seed/soil contact.

…. Hope it makes your deer bigger uncle Swamp