So let me first say this: I am a very new trapper, and started trapping last year for my FFA project. So, this might be a really dumb idea, but I am curious to hear more opinions on it.

I was out in the shed today working on some traps before season. And while I was getting out some traps, I noticed that the jaw width of a #2 Double Long Spring looked very similar to the jaw width of my MB 550s (Just eyeballed it, no measuring, so could be off). Has anyone used a #2 Double Long Spring to trap bobcats before? For reference, these are old Victor #2 Double Long Springs. I was planning on using them in a exposed set. As far as modifying, I was going to put a bigger pan on them for a larger place for a bobcat to step. Any other recommendations for any further modifications?

I am a young trapper and very new to this, so I really appreciate any and all the help I can get.

Good spring strength is needed as bcats make a heckava first lunge when that traps hits their foot.

Ive caught many bcats in #2 LSs.

Thank you for the feedback. I will have to check the springs, as the traps are pretty old. However, they do still feel rather stout.

Those traps are easy to beef up the springs with the little auxiliary springs they sell that fit inside the original springs, they fit victors well. Like all other DLS traps once they get a hold on something, they keep a hold of it. Incidental raccoons will have plenty of room to potentially get to their foot under the jaws of the trap and will chew off the numb toes and pull out, but bobcats won't be an issue like that. Adding a mid chain swivel is always a good idea on any trap. I know some guys center swivel them but IMO its better attached to the end of the chain so they are pulling their foot towards the spring opposite the chain where its a very tight grip, plus it's easier on your knee if you set the traps over it as well. Good luck. Don't get too hung up on modifying your traps and such, just practice set construction and choosing locations, that's the key to successful trapping.

I have caught a few bobcats in LS traps, but it has been mostly when I'm using them on blind sets. Never had an issue with holding them, even having one in a #11 one time. Like was posted above I would NOT center swivel them as I have done this to my traps and want really impressed with the result and, where I trap there is a lot of water and its easier to set brake a trap over my knee then in the water. The one major modification I have made to my LS traps is making the firing system adjustable. I like to have the ability to adjust my pan tension and I like my trigger to "snap", instead of being mushy. A lot of the old DS traps really need firing system work to make them usable for bobcats and such. The only issue I can see using them is the the pan tension, chain and lag of swivels. I feel if you address those items a #2 LS would be a nice bobcat catcher.

Good tips on the #2 dbls traps. Two things to add.
ADC mentioned adding the auxiliary springs to the springs to BEEF UP the spring power. If you take a piece of pipe a bit wider than
the spring on your trap and force it all the way to the end of the U shaped curve of the spring, you can actually pound on the OUTSIDE curve of the spring and increase the springs strength. This takes a bit of practice but it works. Position the pipe so it is supported securely on both sides say between two solid boards. Now slip trap's spring through the pipe so the the curve of the spring is facing up. Next take a heavy hammer and pound on the curve of the spring HARD. By re-shaping the spring end, it changes the mechanics(?) of the spring adding a bit of power back to the spring. It ain't easy but it is worth a try and cheap.
Second.
Trapper Gunny mentioned pan tension issues with the older Victor #2s. Try using some sort of (as there are plenty of different ways) UNDER the trap pan. Simple folded up wax paper works ....take a 16 inch piece or so and cut it and fold it up multiple times the size and shape of the pan and slip fit under the pan. Or purchase some UNDERALLS from a trapping supply store. It is a piece of foam that slips under the pan. Others prefer a chunk of the stuffing that is used for bedding/pillows(polyfil). It needs to be a material that is scent free and can be compressed easily. Play around with it, you'll figure it out. Again keep asking questions and learn. Trapping Assocations are your best source of real hands on info.
Good luck!

I have caught a couple incidental bobcats in my victor 2 long springs I had set for coons. They hold just fine. Mid chain swivel would be a plus. As far as a bigger pan, I would stick with the stock pan. Better chance of getting a full pad catch with the smaller pan.

Great advice! I have access to a property frequented by a big tom, I hope to target him this upcoming season. Last season I found tracks and got him on a trail cam, just hoping he stuck around.

I will definitely look into this! I bought them and they were still hanging in an old barn, so they need some work in the chain department. Any recommendations?

Thank you for the advice, and for the good luck. I honestly don't know if I am confident enough in my modifying skills to try hammering on a trap yet, but I also not in them for much (I think I paid $5? for 8 of them at an auction) so I also don't stand to lose much either. Will definitely look into the UNDERALLS though!

I would have never thought a smaller pan would increase the chance of a deep pad catch! Great tip, thank you!

Most of what I would reply has already been said. But yes, #2 DLS will work just fine. Most of my personal DLS are #3, as I just prefer more jaw spread for my western cats, as some big toms have huge front paws. The larger pans (in exposed trap sets) offer a more obvious stepping point to a passing cat, and help bullseye a cat's paw right to the trap pan. Conversely, a larger pan in a buried trap set could be detrimental, as a cat's paw could be partially on a jaw or spring when the trap fires. Although I use predominately coils, MB 550's and Bridger dogless on my lines, the longsprings have their place for sure. Here's an example of how an exposed trap targets a cats paw directly to a trap pan. Notice just how much paw is filling this 550.

#2 long springs hold them very well.
Sorry these pics aren’t very good they are a bit old. But those are cats in #2 longs. They all had great holds.
#2 longs springs were a workhorse on my coyote and cat line for many years in “80s and “90s. All started when I ordered a bunch of #3 longs northwoods and they shipped me a bunch of #2s. I decided to use them rather than deal with returns and that was back before credit cards and online orders.
Caught a jillion coyotes and cats on those little long springs. They hold whatever gets in them.
Now these days I set a lot of #2 coils mostly bridgers and some old stock Monty rounds, but I do still run a lot of #2 longs yet too. They work well.
If you dig around in the archives here I had several threads on using and modifying #2 longs for land trapping predators. PM me if you need help.
Jim






Here is how mine are all set up for coyote and cats.



Make sure you file the dog and pan notch to a nice crisp and short throw.


And yes I seriously use them on coyote too. I get laughed at on here a lot but been doing it since 80s and they work well. Key is short chains, double cross stake or cable anchor, and lots of swivels. I have zero hesitation setting my #2 longs for any coyote or cat around here.

jabNE,

Hard to argue with those pics.

The only one thing I see missing is to weld a little bead on the jaw tips (bubble tip) so the jaws can't easily be pulled out.