Got rained out the woods last two mornings and the truck is in the shop till Monday so stuck around the house for the most part till Monday but had a lil project I wanted to mess with for a while.
Keep getting told listen to the experts and that ranch fairy guy is like the dude eveyone tells me to listen to when it comes to putting pointy sticks into pigs and killing them quick and he says high FOC Arrows are the ticket so yeah....

I'm also not dropping $20-$30 on an arrow with all the latest and greatest inserts, outserts , collars ect , stick a pig ..... Not going after trophy elk or something...not that deep ...but there apparently a bit tougher then deer when it comes to arrows so
Ok anyhow
Base arrow are these .350 hunter extreme blood sports from wally world


Out the box de-vaned 288.7gr apparently 650 is where it's at for and "adult " arrow
Gonna go ahead and cut these down to match some I had made up at a shop when I first got this bow


Just gonna use the lil saw I use to cut my brass down for various reloading stuff

And forgot to order one of those deals to flatten up a cut carbon arrow but from my reading some sand paper and a flat surface works fine so




Found these brass inserts on Amazon I had some 150's but used them up on my recurve so 200gr it is

Then since I'm gonna be running 150 gr stinger buzz cut 2 blades got some 150 GR points



And for a higbFOC arrow to be it's best your supposed to get the best arrow flight possible bare shaft so took the first one and 14yd


Slight tail kick down and honestly I think it's due to my whisker biscuit not being leveled with my nock point so made three more and they all shot pretty close , so went and fletched one because again apparently if it's all right your fletched and bare shafts should all be pretty close .
14yd again




And a little sight adjustment



Bare shafts are still kicking down a little fletched kicks up a little but idk yet... Think most of it is just needing some run the bow a little more that and I'm shooting into a square bale and not a block target but it's what I got . Anyhow all I had time for today gonna tweak it a lil more tomorrow then try some with a broadhead

You're doing good. Keep at it with the arrow tuning. The adjustment you need might be in your string knocking point...move it up or down just a little.

My advice is to use cut on impact broadheads for hogs (not any expandable). Expandable will do the job but on a big hog and directly in the shoulder it won't. And even with a cut on impact head I'd wait for a quartering away shot and try to get the arrow behind that shoulder shield.

If the hog is close, put it in his forehead or his ear....if your accuracy is spot on.

Feral hogs make great archery targets!!!

Yeah that's what I think it is , the nocking point that is. Was looking at it earlier and it just looks a a bit off , definitely has a lil cant to it. As far as broad heads YEP !
150 GR stinger buzzcut

Not the 650gr it "needs" to be but 595gr , 300gr of which is right on the end should be ....better I guess


Idk I'm looking at archery the way most people look at gun hunting.. being enough in case of accidents. Why use a wimpy .223 when you can use an 30-06 and ensure it's gonna do some damage even if you don't make the perfect shot ..... I say this as a guy who like using small wimpy calibers on pigs with headshots but hay......

That and hogs are a lot tougher then deer anatomically speaking so if my lil 60lbs 26" draw bow can make this thing work good on pigs even with ...not the best shots , then deer..... If I ever find any interest in them ... shouldn't be a issue lol

Shot placement is key.

That 595 grain arrow will work good, especially with that head.

Post some pics when you stick one.

I haven't killed a hog with my bow in a few years. I need to get back after them.

… 100 grain original slick trick will kill anything in the south…. But head down that path if you want…. Them heavy heads will kill crap too lol

I said the same thing about a .22 hornet and headshots but was informed such under gassing is frowned upon

Front of center is good. Tuning to the bow is done by very small increments to the bow whether it being nock set adjustment or arrow rest. You will find you can only go so much before bare shafts and fletched shafts move together. You can really get crazy tuning but it takes a lot of time and possibly money to get it done. Even tuning the shooter can change things. Been at archery for many years and even changes in the shooter will change arrow flight. I have shot pigs and have done it with the same equipment as I deer hunt with.

My son tried those shafts with his compound and tossed them. All the tuning in the world didn't produce consistent groups. I don't remember what he settled on, but saw him shoot one arrow right into another at about 30 yards, splitting it like a banana peel with the other brand. At 30 yards with the Bloodsports, a 6" pattern of 6 arrows was the best he could get, at 30. The others, pretty much all touching. He went to single shot per target, as he was shaving off the fletchings.

The holes in the paper plate doesn't look right
Can you notice nock wiggle when you shoot an arrow?

Wolfie you have many skills and talents!!

What’s your arrow length and poundage? A 350 spine seems a little weak for 350 grains up front. I went down this rabbit hole for awhile. I figured out that it did the same things my other arrows did. They stuck in the dirt on the other side of where I shot them. Now I keep my arrows in the 425 to 450 range. My speed is still good and arrow weight is enough, they fly great. Stuff dies just the same. It’s fun to play with and learn from. But in my opinion unless your shooting a low poundage and need the added weight. That same head will work just fine with 400 to 450 grain arrow. I also shoot a traditional bow it’s about 45 pounds at my draw length. My arrows are close to what you built. In the 550 to 600 range with a 2 blade, cut on contact. I don’t shoot past 25 yards and it’s about 180fps. I need al the weight I can. When you only shoot 20 yards, range isn’t a problem.

Where did you get that little arrow holder to weigh arrows? My arrow is around 500 and last year it penetrated 3/4 of a spike elk

I refer to my bare shafts as “snitches”. They’ll certainly tell on ya . Looks like a good build . And I’m months behind schedule. I’ll send you some pics with stats when I get done .

Are you shooting a stick bow? I can't see where this is really useful with a compound unless you just enjoy tinkering with it.

Why wouldn’t it be useful for a compound bow?

Do they not shoot arrows and if the bows isn’t set up correctly and the arrows don’t fly straight would it not have an effect on arrow flight?

Unless you're having trouble with flight its a solution in search of a problem. The modern compounds flat out cook, I don't think you're going to see any real world benefits from a heavy arrow over a faster stock arrow. I've never shot hogs, maybe I'm wrong but i've shot a pile of deer with a bow including deer though the shoulders, shooting a Matthews at max draw and 82 pounds may also affect how I see things.

I’ll agree with that. I inferred that you were saying a compound doesn’t need to be adjusted. Like those dudes who think crossbows are like guns and aren’t archery equipment.

But some folks like building their own arrows. He says he is trying to save money and not buy new stock arrows.

He will learn that he will pay the same in time and parts in the end and have the same arrow basically.

Heavy arrows are all the rage now with the new shooters and influencers. I’d rather have the speed. I’m not insane so I don’t shoot an 82 pound bow. My 55 pound compound suits me fine. I’m only hunting whitetails at less than 40 yards though. Figure if I was after elk or something big like that out west i would need the poundage and flatter shooting at distance.

He likes to tinker though.

Here is a chart that you may find useful for final tuning.

In my experience the smaller diameter arrows penetrate better than the larger. For the money you cant beat Easton Axis shafts. If you stay off of the shoulder you shouldn’t have any trouble putting a 500 plus grain arrow with a sharp broad head through a pig.I haven’t shot any animals with the 4mm arrows, but they penetrate a target even better than the 5mm shafts. No arrow will penetrate well without good arrow flight though. Good hunting to ya.

It was definitely a western setup. Shooting a real world 321 fps, can't remember arrow weight off hand but it wasn't light.

Can’t imagine it would be a light arrow.