So I have a few questions on beaver fur handling, as I have never put up beavers before, but I would like to try this season:

1. What type of wood do you all recommend for beaver boards? I purchased a pattern board at the FTA Rendezvous from Top Lot Stretchers, but I do not know what type of wood to use it on.

2. What beaver knives do you all recommend? I have skinned beavers before using my Havalon, but it was quite the task. So I feel a proper beaver knife would be better suited for the task.

3. Any major tips for a beginner? Again, I am extremely new to trapping, so I really appreciate all the help I can get.

You can use any boards that you want. What makes a difference is ability to drive nails into the boards. So it needs to be soft.

Main thing on a beaver knife is it needs to be sharp and hold an edge. Unlike most other critters it's basically all knifw work on the hide, very little pulling of the hides. A rounded tip knife is preferred so you don't poke holes in the hide or the stomach wall when getting into tight spots

If you're not going to clean skin, maintaining a straight line on the cuts makes for quick work. Keep that knife sharp and strip/steel it as soon as starts to drag. Use a "junk knife" when cutting next to bone and through ankles and wrists

I have 3/4 decking plywood, can put a beaver on each side, could get 2 boards out of a 8 ft by 4 ft sheet, mine were gotten out of a factory dumpster where used to work

I made mine with 5/8 plywood, but I made 3 out of each 4X8. Stretching with FHA oval pattern super blankets fit on them and any bigger you can make up the extra at head and tail.

3/4” plywood works good as stated. Can get two per board. I just use a Dexter beaver knife. It’ll last about 2 beavers before I have to touch it up. Also as stated, use a junk knife for around the head and ankles. I use a serrated steak knife from the dollar store for the heads. When boarding, fold the hide in half long ways and center it in the lines and stretch it. Let it settle, and whatever line is settles to drop one line down from that and nail it on that one.

Most use 1/2” or thicker ply wood. Cut it 32” X 4’ and with both sides you got 6 boards out of 1 sheet.

Get a beaver skinner, cheap or expensive. I tried 3 before settling on the Zeph. Try different methods for fleshing. You’ll wreck a few but that’s ok, there’ll be lots more beaver. I fleshed over my leg until I got the hang of fleshing on a beam, the fleshers are crazy sharp. Some come with both edges sharp and you can run a steel to take one edge off. I use a Zeph or Caribou for the beam, Victornox for fleshing over my leg.

Take your time and be careful with some of the YouTube stuff out there, some bad info. Someone on here gave me some really stupid info by PM too. They didn’t have the guts to post it publicly, can’t recall who it was as I was new too. I got so frustrated on the beam, that I tried over the leg. No more holes, faster and easier for me, but now I use the beam mostly. The best YouTube guys are the ones making a nick while videoing, it’ll happen to the best. It’ll take time, but stick with it. You’ll be known as “the trapper who knows how to skin” in no time flat….lol

I use 3\4 plywood for boards. I use a sharp pointed knife to open them up and to skin. That's just what I am used to. I use a Necker fleshing knife and plus keep a Dexter beaver knife close by.

5/8 or 3/4” ( better ) plywood. I don’t like OSB for boards. As for knives, I like a Havalon for my belly cut, a rounded Dexter beaver knife for skinning, and a Queens Steel folder for the head cuts. I lop of the feet with a big set of cable shears.

Check out a 5' Caribou for the main work on a beaver. I use Dexters for the head and a small paring knife for the belly slit.

3/4 " sanded shop plywood for the boards. One sheet yields three boards.

I used plywood for many years until about a few years ago when I needed more plywood for more beavers and I absolutely flipped at the price for a sheet,,, I looked into the steel adjustable beaver hoops and learned I could get a lot more hoops for the price of a single sheet of plywood… I’ve learned there’s a few more advantages of using the hoops.
As far as knives go, my favorite skinning knife came from an idea my dad came up with. I had a filet knife that had been broken… so my dad rounded off the end and it became the best beaver knife I’ve ever owned.
I use rapala filet knives for all my skinning, coyote, raccoon and an intentional broken one with the edge rounded off for beaver.
As far as fleshing,,, I myself prefer the necker,,, it works great for me…
There’s guys who like Sheffields and other brands, but I own 3 neckers because they do what I need them to do

It won’t take long and you’ll have a plethora of knives and fleshers in your garage to choose from……lol

Come over sometime and we’ll finish some beaver (and other critters) in my furshed. We aren’t that terrible far apart. I’ve got a bunch in the freezer if you want to do some before season gets here.

The one thing you need in your fur shed is a box cutter with a hooked carpet blade. This make the opening cuts on most critters pretty easy. You will thank me later.

Before you start, make sure you catch them when they are prime, and especially don't listen to the guys who say things like, "Around here beavers are prime in November", even if you do live in Wisconsin. Your DNR just wants them dead in a lot of places, so just because the season is open DOES NOT MEAN THEY ARE FULLY PRIME. And that's the difference between a $70-75, 65" blanket size beaver and a $25, 65" blanket size beaver.

Thank you very much for the tips, SNIPERBBB. I will definitely remember to use a junk knife around the head this year, as that cost me many a havalon blade.

So, might be a dumb question, but I assume when you say "put a beaver on both sides", you are hanging them up on an eye-hook, correct?

Do you happen to know the measurements on the boards? Just curious, as since trapping is my FFA project, I can make all of my boards and drying racks in my wood shop class, and all of my t-stakes and drowning rods in my metal shop class.

Thank you for the tip on boarding them! Another question: what type of nails do you use?

Go to fur harvester auction website, click on education then click on beaver table. As someone else stated 3/4” plywood cut 32”x48” yields 3 boards per sheet , can put up 6 beavs using this system.

Beaver on both sides means you can nail a beaver to each side of your board. Need at least 3/4” plywood as they said. I just use double head nails. Not sure what diameter they are, don’t need to be very big.