Re: Beaver Fur Handling Questions
[Re: CoonCatcher2007]
#8452651
Yesterday at 04:42 PM
Yesterday at 04:42 PM
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Joined: Oct 2014
Wisconsin
8117 Steve R
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Oct 2014
Wisconsin
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I made mine with 5/8 plywood, but I made 3 out of each 4X8. Stretching with FHA oval pattern super blankets fit on them and any bigger you can make up the extra at head and tail.
Last edited by 8117 Steve R; Yesterday at 04:47 PM.
Steve WTA NRA
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Re: Beaver Fur Handling Questions
[Re: CoonCatcher2007]
#8452652
Yesterday at 04:50 PM
Yesterday at 04:50 PM
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Joined: Jan 2024
Oregon
Deafcaller
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jan 2024
Oregon
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3/4” plywood works good as stated. Can get two per board. I just use a Dexter beaver knife. It’ll last about 2 beavers before I have to touch it up. Also as stated, use a junk knife for around the head and ankles. I use a serrated steak knife from the dollar store for the heads. When boarding, fold the hide in half long ways and center it in the lines and stretch it. Let it settle, and whatever line is settles to drop one line down from that and nail it on that one.
Deafcaller
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Re: Beaver Fur Handling Questions
[Re: CoonCatcher2007]
#8452653
Yesterday at 04:51 PM
Yesterday at 04:51 PM
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Joined: Jun 2022
Manitoba
Shakeyjake
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jun 2022
Manitoba
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Most use 1/2” or thicker ply wood. Cut it 32” X 4’ and with both sides you got 6 boards out of 1 sheet.
Get a beaver skinner, cheap or expensive. I tried 3 before settling on the Zeph. Try different methods for fleshing. You’ll wreck a few but that’s ok, there’ll be lots more beaver. I fleshed over my leg until I got the hang of fleshing on a beam, the fleshers are crazy sharp. Some come with both edges sharp and you can run a steel to take one edge off. I use a Zeph or Caribou for the beam, Victornox for fleshing over my leg.
Take your time and be careful with some of the YouTube stuff out there, some bad info. Someone on here gave me some really stupid info by PM too. They didn’t have the guts to post it publicly, can’t recall who it was as I was new too. I got so frustrated on the beam, that I tried over the leg. No more holes, faster and easier for me, but now I use the beam mostly. The best YouTube guys are the ones making a nick while videoing, it’ll happen to the best. It’ll take time, but stick with it. You’ll be known as “the trapper who knows how to skin” in no time flat….lol
Wind Blew, crap flew, out came the line crew
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Re: Beaver Fur Handling Questions
[Re: CoonCatcher2007]
#8452821
Yesterday at 10:52 PM
Yesterday at 10:52 PM
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Joined: Dec 2006
Oregon
beaverpeeler
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Dec 2006
Oregon
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Check out a 5' Caribou for the main work on a beaver. I use Dexters for the head and a small paring knife for the belly slit.
3/4 " sanded shop plywood for the boards. One sheet yields two boards.
My fear of moving stairs is escalating!
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Re: Beaver Fur Handling Questions
[Re: CoonCatcher2007]
#8452826
Yesterday at 10:56 PM
Yesterday at 10:56 PM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Illinois
foxkidd44
trapper
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trapper
Joined: Jun 2007
Illinois
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I used plywood for many years until about a few years ago when I needed more plywood for more beavers and I absolutely flipped at the price for a sheet,,, I looked into the steel adjustable beaver hoops and learned I could get a lot more hoops for the price of a single sheet of plywood… I’ve learned there’s a few more advantages of using the hoops. As far as knives go, my favorite skinning knife came from an idea my dad came up with. I had a filet knife that had been broken… so my dad rounded off the end and it became the best beaver knife I’ve ever owned. I use rapala filet knives for all my skinning, coyote, raccoon and an intentional broken one with the edge rounded off for beaver. As far as fleshing,,, I myself prefer the necker,,, it works great for me… There’s guys who like Sheffields and other brands, but I own 3 neckers because they do what I need them to do
Stand by your principles, Stand by your guns, and victory complete and permanent is sure at last. Abraham Lincoln
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