Some told someone that can’t install in under were a wall will be installed
This creates a situation where you have to install in in the door and hall entrance….

Under wall would be to get to the manifold

Slab on grade house ,,,,,,,5 inch of concrete

Ive got in floor heat in my basement and garage my 2 lines go from the basement to the manifold in the garage thru the wall which is 2x6 and drywall not sure if that's what your asking?

I don't see where that would make any difference as long as you ok with heating the two areas at the same temperature. Most of the time each area Is controlled by a zone vale so you can control the temps in each room.

Five zones…

They want the manifold here

One reason I think for that is so you don’t put a cement bolt into the pipe in the floor.

Be the only reason I can think of.

Done a few. The manifold was normally in a washroom or in a boiler room off the garage. Runs of tubing were routed into and out of rooms ~CL of the doorways and a zone in each room, home runner back to manifold. Bottom plate locations were drawn in beforehand on the foam insulation, for ground level slabs, and layed out conventionally on second floor substraight by lines snapped for wall location reference.
One of those things in building do it however you want, accept the results. I wouldn’t risk penetrating a run of tubing.

It is the reason and seems simple, but if you knick a pipe its a lot of backwards motions. I saw some one do it before. It sucks.

Biggest factor is making sure all zones have a similar linear length to them and the door way thing sometimes makes for interesting routing

The tubing layout was alway designed on the projects I worked. Follow the plans, document, and any issue that may come after ain’t yours.

Thic

The engineering call for thickened footings on bearings walls/ all walls and anchor bolts in the slab, so that is not an issue.

Our old acreage had it.
Electrical grid heating for upstairs floors and the basement had a water heated floor with tubing and a manifold.
We shut both off when we bought the place. The lack of home maintenance from the former owners made us Leary of turning either one on. Those former owners didn’t upkeep anything.
Had a plumber shut the water heater basement floor off. Capped the pipe to the manifold after blowing out the lines. It’s there if new owners want to reconnect it but the basement stayed nice and warm without it.
The extra hot water tank needed to supply all of it was the main reason we shut it down. One hot water heater and an extra large tank to help with the floor load. Made both needing replaced in the 20 years of age of that home when we bought it both had to be replaced due to age of the units. Very inefficient and costly so we shut that off and just had the plumber install a nice modern single hot water heater. He had to haul both old tanks up and out of the basement when he was done with the new single unit install.
As for the electrical grid heating upstairs, we shut those off too. Took a lot of juice and tied up a lot of the power box space with all the heavy load breakers required. And the house was plenty warm without it. Also limited what type of flooring you could install over it. Ours had 20 year old linoleum that was old, stained, and gouged in places. We removed the linoleum, shut off the floor heat, and installed wood floors throughout.
Much nicer upgrade and a lot lower electrical bill.
Jim

I worked for a guy that had a resort in the Poconos. The large maintenance shop there, 50 x 100 and another building had in-floor radiant heat in the slabs. The heat was provided with an outdoor wood/coal stove. it worked pretty good.

A few years later I built a large addition for the same guy. A framed addition on frost walls with a crawl-space. He had me run a radiant hear system with the water lines in the joist cavities under the plywood sub-floor. most of the floors were carpeted, the large bathroom was tiled.

Years later the wife was telling me the floors in the carpeted areas never got warm and the tiled bath floor only slightly warm.

If you didn't insulate and box in those joist spaces, you're not going to heat the living space.

The supplier of the materials gave us these nifty aluminum foil type things to staple over the tubing and hold it up against the underside of the wooden subfloor. Then the joist cavities were insulated.

Wood and carpet are poor conductors of heat.

As said it’s so you don’t puncture the tube, runs should be limited to 200’ of tubing each. Radiant heat was designed to be in concrete and heat a mass. Also as said heat doesn’t conduct well through wood and carpet and may cost you more to heat the room.

That's true.

Here we go

Have a friend in AK who has it in his home and garage.

My son is a commercial contractor. A few years ago he built a luxury residence with radiant floor heat. In the master bathroom they plumbed a loop to go up to a towel rack, to keep bath towels warm. Your wife may like that idea. Shouldn't cost very much.

I have it in my house & garage, installed in numerous other houses, garages, & sidewalks. No issue running under walls just sleeve your expansion joints. They make a special padding for carpet installations & as far as not feeling warm sounds like something wrong with install. Couple cons with infloor is lengthy time to warm up & since it operates at lower temps noticed some condensation issues in some new tight construction.