A four coil is a lot of trap for a otter, especially when it is paired with a square jaw. I like round jaw traps with a shallow depth from top of the jaws to the top of the pan. Otters have very small front legs and if you catch them too high they can pull out. They are extremely strong but remember their front legs are very small in comparison to their body. I like using a strong 1 1/2 or 2 CS or a #11 DLS. I make sure my springs are strong, the base is strong and I put a couple of swivels in the chain. I catch a lot of otters on dry land sets and I use a earth anchor, and it holds. Drowning isn't necessary if you anchor accordingly. And, if you have a live market for them you will loose out on a LOT of money killing them. If I'm in soggy bottoms I run a cable around a tree, and then swivel mount another cable going to my trap. I also use drowning cables on dry land to get the otter off the trail as if they trail gets messed up, the others in the bevy will make a new trail going around the disturbance.
Body grips I use 280's for where they come out of the water on crossovers and I use 220's in established trails. I only use 330's when I run out of 220/280's as a 330 will suitcase them and sometimes they are halfway through the trap before it fires.
I might have 10 to 15 otters in a day and I would say 1/3 of them are still alive in the traps with no issues, as they are anchored solidly. I prefer them dead, but you have to set to the ground you're trapping. If I have a live market for them I will nothing but #11 DLS.
If you are in the Louisiana area this Saturday I will being giving a demo at the Louisiana Trappers and Alligator Hunters Association Fall Convention on dry land and water sets for otters.