I appreciate the suggestions and comments from my questions a while back. Marten trapping was much easier than setting out a coyote line
Next year I plan to build a bunch of marten boxes and set those. Hoping to have 30 locations with 2-3 boxes per stop
I have a couple hundred 110 conibears,,, Ill just rob a spring from some and make it a 120's.
One thing I discovered I need a little help like a spring clip to keep a spring compressed while setting the trap
Why do marten like such a big chunk of meat for bait?
Any secrets to keep bears away?
How do you clean and prep 120 conibears?
do you use a drying floor wax or speed typ dip on the springs? ( we use to paraffin wax the springs and hinge pin sides of our 330)
I use a deep U for trigger shape with center placement ,, is there a better position or should use a pan adapter
I used wire this year while it worked ok Im thinking I need a faster and more flexible system for trap attachment ,, wire is a bit of a hassle for me ,,, Neuropathy limits my finger dexterity
I prefer to have the trap[attached to the front of the box.
This year I set of the sides of 4 miles of FS road, 11 locations 2 checks, 6 days, 155 trap-set nights, 4 the first run a single on the pull ( plus I think a bear took one martern) In what I would consider marginal marten country. Nect year ill set another region that will be easier setting and checking
Do you prefer more of a leaning pole or up and down tree
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2025/12/full-4424-277899-1125_marten1.jpg)
How does a marten get that far into the trap?
I saw on a you tube some trapper was setting the trap out from the spring slots over an inch .
Should the slots be deeper ? or the trap set out further
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2025/12/full-4424-277901-1125_marten.jpg)
Bear tok the trap and marten