Down here diver sticks work for beaver and for otters, as does blocking, if you are using this technique in water runs where both animals are swimming. It also works for beavers on water entry/exit points. The problem using dive sticks comes into play when you try to get a otter to go under a stick on a entry/exit point or on dry land. They tend to go over the top. If you put up too much blocking a otter has the tendency to "blow" it, they either go around or they smash into it trying to clear their path.
Remember this is what works down here for me, but I found that if I angle the sticks across the top of the of the body grip, a otter will go into the trap without any issues. This is a picture I took last year of a trap I put in with very little blocking and I took 7, you read that right, 7 otters in week in this set. I originally put this trap in as I saw a entry/exit point through a thicket while driving by in my side by side. I just happen to see it. I was on the way back to the truck, tired and really didn't feel like putting much effort into the set. I put it in, the next day a otter. By day two I knew I was on to something. I put one set just like this on the side of the road where they were crossing. I caught a couple over there.
That is a 330, so I think it gives them enough room to raise their head and go into the trap. When using 280's I raise them a little more, and the bottom of the 220's are normally 3 to 6" off the ground. I have found if I put 280/220's flush to the ground they have a tendency to climb over the top.
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2026/01/full-57207-282808-otter_trap.jpg)
![[Linked Image]](https://trapperman.com/forum/attachments/usergals/2026/01/full-57207-282809-otter_in_trap.jpg)