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Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver #8548132
01/19/26 10:09 PM
01/19/26 10:09 PM
Joined: Feb 2015
New Hampshire
F
Forest Offline OP
trapper
Forest  Offline OP
trapper
F

Joined: Feb 2015
New Hampshire
I was listening to a recent trapping radio podcast about mink. They were talking about how mink have low bellies and tend to hop up on high points rather than over them, so you should make your trap pan the surface they hop onto, rather than thinking about it like guide sticks for canines.

This got me thinking, how might beaver and otter react differently to dive sticks in different situations? Do otter sometimes climb up and over dive sticks or hug the bottom like a beaver?

I’ve caught a decent amount of otter under diver sticks, but I know I have missed some.

Maybe we should be thinking about dive sticks for otter as more like fencing on fisher pole sets where you use small branches to funnel them in?


Paul Smiths Forestry ‘22
Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: Forest] #8548202
Yesterday at 01:18 AM
Yesterday at 01:18 AM
Joined: Dec 2006
Wisconsin
T
The Beav Offline
trapper
The Beav  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Dec 2006
Wisconsin
I like to place my dive sticks about 10" from the trap.


The forum Know It All according to Muskrat
Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: Forest] #8548257
Yesterday at 07:18 AM
Yesterday at 07:18 AM
Joined: Feb 2023
South Louisiana
T
Trappeur Gunny Offline
trapper
Trappeur Gunny  Offline
trapper
T

Joined: Feb 2023
South Louisiana
Down here diver sticks work for beaver and for otters, as does blocking, if you are using this technique in water runs where both animals are swimming. It also works for beavers on water entry/exit points. The problem using dive sticks comes into play when you try to get a otter to go under a stick on a entry/exit point or on dry land. They tend to go over the top. If you put up too much blocking a otter has the tendency to "blow" it, they either go around or they smash into it trying to clear their path.

Remember this is what works down here for me, but I found that if I angle the sticks across the top of the of the body grip, a otter will go into the trap without any issues. This is a picture I took last year of a trap I put in with very little blocking and I took 7, you read that right, 7 otters in week in this set. I originally put this trap in as I saw a entry/exit point through a thicket while driving by in my side by side. I just happen to see it. I was on the way back to the truck, tired and really didn't feel like putting much effort into the set. I put it in, the next day a otter. By day two I knew I was on to something. I put one set just like this on the side of the road where they were crossing. I caught a couple over there.

That is a 330, so I think it gives them enough room to raise their head and go into the trap. When using 280's I raise them a little more, and the bottom of the 220's are normally 3 to 6" off the ground. I have found if I put 280/220's flush to the ground they have a tendency to climb over the top.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: Forest] #8548342
Yesterday at 09:37 AM
Yesterday at 09:37 AM
Joined: May 2017
ontario
K
k9-hunter Offline
trapper
k9-hunter  Offline
trapper
K

Joined: May 2017
ontario
any time im using dive sticks i find it better to use sticks that will generally not hold an animals weight because they seem too know to big and animal could climb out of water or jump over it the only time i have used bigger logs is i found leaving a couple of inches of air between the log and water line smaller sticks like 2-3 inches seem to work the best for dive sticks for me

Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: k9-hunter] #8548361
Yesterday at 10:09 AM
Yesterday at 10:09 AM
Joined: Nov 2012
Frazee, MN
B
backroadsarcher Offline
trapper
backroadsarcher  Offline
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Joined: Nov 2012
Frazee, MN
Originally Posted by k9-hunter
any time im using dive sticks i find it better to use sticks that will generally not hold an animals weight because they seem too know to big and animal could climb out of water or jump over it the only time i have used bigger logs is i found leaving a couple of inches of air between the log and water line smaller sticks like 2-3 inches seem to work the best for dive sticks for me

This just what I was going to type. Don't use anything they can crawl up on. Sometimes I will even use the end of a branch with all the small limbs on ahead of the trap maybe a foot.

Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: Forest] #8548598
Yesterday at 05:23 PM
Yesterday at 05:23 PM
Joined: Jul 2013
Warren, (Southeast) Texas
ETexTrapper Offline
trapper
ETexTrapper  Offline
trapper

Joined: Jul 2013
Warren, (Southeast) Texas
I try to make it look like several limbs fell into the water. Not perfectly placed like a human would. Helps with educated beaver/ otter and anyone that might be snooping around. If you have only a few inches of water over the trap, a single limb (3" or more thick) over the trap will work. If you have 6" plus over the trap, a otter or beaver might just duck under the limb. Arrange dive sticks/ limbs a few feet on each side of the trap to make the animal go down to the bottom to swim under all the surface debris. Again, I try to make it look like several limbs fell into the water, not just a couple of sticks floating on the surface. Hope that makes sense.

I do damage work and by the time I get called, someone else has usually already played around trying to catch them. I go into the job with the mindset I'm dealing with educated animals.

Last edited by ETexTrapper; Yesterday at 05:27 PM.

Jordan ADC and Trap Modification
Re: Dive Sticks for Otter/Beaver [Re: Trappeur Gunny] #8549111
6 hours ago
6 hours ago
Joined: Feb 2015
New Hampshire
F
Forest Offline OP
trapper
Forest  Offline OP
trapper
F

Joined: Feb 2015
New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Trappeur Gunny
Down here diver sticks work for beaver and for otters, as does blocking, if you are using this technique in water runs where both animals are swimming. It also works for beavers on water entry/exit points. The problem using dive sticks comes into play when you try to get a otter to go under a stick on a entry/exit point or on dry land. They tend to go over the top. If you put up too much blocking a otter has the tendency to "blow" it, they either go around or they smash into it trying to clear their path.

Remember this is what works down here for me, but I found that if I angle the sticks across the top of the of the body grip, a otter will go into the trap without any issues. This is a picture I took last year of a trap I put in with very little blocking and I took 7, you read that right, 7 otters in week in this set. I originally put this trap in as I saw a entry/exit point through a thicket while driving by in my side by side. I just happen to see it. I was on the way back to the truck, tired and really didn't feel like putting much effort into the set. I put it in, the next day a otter. By day two I knew I was on to something. I put one set just like this on the side of the road where they were crossing. I caught a couple over there.

That is a 330, so I think it gives them enough room to raise their head and go into the trap. When using 280's I raise them a little more, and the bottom of the 220's are normally 3 to 6" off the ground. I have found if I put 280/220's flush to the ground they have a tendency to climb over the top.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]



Great info! I hadn’t thought of making the A frame with sticks over the trap but that would cause them to dive without giving them much to climb on.

And as others have said small pieces are probably the way to go.

In my area, a lot of times the ice serves the purpose of a dive stick. But it moves a lot with changes in weather.


Paul Smiths Forestry ‘22
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