yall think smooth rod would work instead of reebar? kinda limited on resources

Yes

Smooth rod is much easier to weld on for making drowning rods

that's part of what I was thinking. also what is the best type of locking slide. I was going to buil the flat ones with a 90° on it

That style of lock will work good on smooth rod. I use smooth rod and that’s the type of lock I made. I welded a double stake swivel on the top end of the rod. Once you put the lock on the rod, just heat up the bottom end of the rod and smash it with a hammer to make it wide enough the lock can’t slip off.

Only time I used one, was when trapping beaver , the ice was weak and melted around the lake.
Open water was about 3 foot open then ice.
Used a couple I made just for that .
Welded a foot wide u to one end for the stake end upside down, used a pipe cut about 2 inches long, welded a flat bar piece for a brake if pulled one way, but a slide the other.
A " T " at the end as a stop.
Couldn't use my normal cable or wire downer , because of the ice.
Could slide it under the ice, and push the u into the ground.
Worked like a charm.
But never used it other than that time.
Lot of crap to carry to a setting area.
I used what I had, rebar 3/4 inch.

Holy moly 3/4 rebar. Bet that suckered did weigh quite a bit

I use smooth 3/8” 6-8’ rods that used to be supports for old streetlight luminaries. Love em. I can bent them a bit so it’s a smooth transition over the bank that’s sometimes under the water. The last foot of them are threaded and an eye loop built in at the other end for a bolt to go through the hydro pole. Some guys around here use nothing less than 1/2” though, but I haven’t had any “situations” yet….lol

My first drowning rods were salvaged chain link fence tensioners. pretty much the same thing you used and the locks were still attached, it was a great find. only thing is theyre only 6 feet so can only use them in spots that get deep quick...but not too deep

Smooth rod is probably a better choice than rebar, but rebar is cheap and available so most guys use it. Cold rolled 1/2" would make some dandy drowning rods.

I agree. But, I have some fiberglass rods I bought that I like better than either of these. Much lighter to carry and work with. Before that I used smooth rods.

That style of lock will work good on smooth rod. I use smooth rod and that’s the type of lock I made. I welded a double stake swivel on the top end of the rod. Once you put the lock on the rod, just heat up the bottom end of the rod and smash it with a hammer to make it wide enough the lock can’t slip off. [/quote]

thanks for that. I was wondering what people do so the trap won't slid right off the end. majority of the rods I've seen(on the internet and not) haven't had anything on the end

It was heavy, but it worked, as I said it was all I had at the time.
But it was only once in awhile that I would use one.
I only used them one season.

I make my rods so that the trap can come off the staking end and I weld a D-ring or chain link 18” up from the bottom end and if you’d like you can further diversify by hooking a drowning cable to that, say…a 12+ footer so as to run two traps off of one pole, or 3… in the fashion of the old time spruce pole shoved out in the muck with a drowning wire up to another wooden stake…it’s nice to be able to separate your trap from the pole.

I use cold roll 7/16” smooth rod. Love it. Never had a beaver bend one that I know of, although some I do intentionally bend into a gentle arc because they are better that way in many situations.
I bought mine when steel prices were lower. Not sure what it would cost now.

I still use the old method of drowning wire like you describe. Much lighter and more convenient to pack, and I can cut it to whatever length needed at site (unlike rods or drowning cables that are predetermined lengths). If the bottom is rocky and you can't drive a drowning stake in, you can use a weight, if there are rocks available the most convenient weight if you have to travel any distance from the truck is a gunny sack that you can shove in your back pocket and then fill with rocks at the site and tie the wire to it.

I like to make the lock big enough, and the stake end small enough for lock to slip over. I find it easier all the way around. Transporting, setting and removing critters.

This^^^^ is by far the best way for the top/stake end. Use 3/16" or 1/4" rod. This methods keeps rebar stakes from catching when driving or pulling...which can be aggravating.

And, I've tried every way imaginable....washers welded on side of rod, flat stake swivels that pivot, large nuts welded directly on end, a three links of chain welded on & with a stake swivel, a welded on double stake swivel, etc.

My summer project is to convert all my rods back to the loop for the stake end.

that’s what mine look like and my square tubing lock will slip over that