For 110s and 160s pictures I planning on making 150 more looking for what other guys use and there body grip bracket to hold the trap on

I’ve used plated-110’s/(single spring)160’s for decades both with open water and through holes in the ice with great success even in 4’ of water. I made my own trap holder/bracket by welding small pieces of scrap rod and key stock as seen in the photos. I would also add a clip to the spring side of the plate for easy and quick trap connection and quick disconnect. My plates are 3/8”x4”x8” (some are 1/2”) KB Stabilizers are good BUT I like the extra weight of the plate attached to my traps especially when placing them in deeper water and have to use a tool because I can’t reach that far.



When I first started making plated-110’s I used vinyl tubing which was a very simple thing to do. Dill hole, cut & spilt tubing, and bolt. I highly recommend this method of making plated-bgs for those who do not weld.

U think the snuggy coni mounts will work if i weld on my plates i planning on going with a heavier plate weld a medium size nut on one side to run my 3 ft of wire too that connect to my trap

Sure, I see no reason why they wouldn’t work.

I know it says steel plate but I use paver bricks they work well but I dont set a ton of them.

I have some paver bricks setup the same way

I make mine from 1/4x3 1/2 flat bar. They weight right at 2 pounds. I tack a body grip holder to the plate and add a cut piece of chain to attach the trap and a tie wire.

Mine are very similar to those. I add a long bolt through them to help hold them in the bottom in moving water. They don't work well in rocks but think the brick idea would work.

I used mine this year in some fairly fast water and nothing but rocks and they never moved. Our streams are really rocky and having a bolt sticking down would make it really difficult to get them in place.

Lots of variations. Many based on materials folks can get easily/cheaply.

Barnes sells his "Set N Go" that is similar for folks who don't want to fabricate as well.

Now for the rest of my story! In your starting question you mentioned “brackets” so that’s how I answered your question but I only use “plated-BGs” when I’m setting through ice or I have rock/concrete sidewalls. In my water, including the rivers I trapped for MSU, my “normal” BE set locations BEFORE freeze-up are just dirt/clay banks. It’s my expressed and experienced opinion that a horizontally, “spiked-BG” is superior to a “plated-BG” under my normal conditions as I described because the setting doesn’t require a non-sloping bottom. Meaning my “spiked-BG will fit tighter in the groove and not lean out away from the edge due to a sloping/outward tapering bottom. My MO is to seek out “projection-type” set locations and I tuck a 110 sized trap into the undercut of a projection in seconds(actually timed by MSU students lol) Never use smooth rod or threaded rod for your spike both will have less holdability!
https://youtu.be/1jEOoCZOV0k?si=q130GEkMs5vIylSh

Point of interest! Once the MSU Dioxin Project was finished I spoke with the project Professor about buying all of the spiked-110s I’d built & used which was about 4 doz. No way would he sell them to me! he told me that he had another project coming up in Upper New York State and would demand the trappers he hired for the Prj had to use the BE set AND the MSU spiked traps!

This same professor had headed-up a similar toxicology project in down-state MI with a crew of trappers before my Project. These trappers were not mink trappers nor did they know or maybe not understand the BE set because they only caught 6 mink (6 mink was not even a sample size) in 6 years of trapping the of “river of concern”! The professor even sent 2 Research Techs to the trappers college specifically to learn how to catch mink and they never caught a mink and from my speaking at length with one of the two(came to follow me for a couple of days), never heard of the bottom edge set!!!!

Good video Seldom.

Macc

IF . . . you don't need that steel plate or whatever to hold your trap in place, consider the KB stabilizer. It holds traps from #110s to #330s.

My go to BE set (other than the colony trap) is the #150 on a KB stabilizer tethered with paracord. Simple. You can pack in dozens of these at a time.

The steel plate with coniholder is good for sure. I don't trap rock/rubble and I don't need to haul all that weight around. So this is what works for me.

Note how the bends in the #150 allow it to fit snugly on the two rods.