So what’s the best 120 pans on the market ? Thinking about converting a few dozen over from standard wires to pans. I have used the Barkers I think they were years ago. I’m sure someone has made something else by now. What’s your opinion?

wws

This could become the Boco vs. The Beav pay per view event we are all dying to see!

I decided to make them myself.

And I put wood on the pans. I torched the pan lightly to blend the wood color in a bit

My catch rate (on mink) stayed about the same as with wires. With wires i prefer a victor 4 way trigger shaped like a keyhole.

I like Mississippi based Chip Davis and son Big Pans..."Go Big Or Go Home" motto.
Heavy duty construction and easy to install

That's how I did it.

I’ve used it before,,, the only thing I don’t like about it is that they are difficult to keep on the trigger after firing .

Wood for 120 sized traps. They can take the boil every year and they last. I buy mine from the trapping stores like MTP. Never broke one and they have caught many Marten, Mink and Ermine. Slide them onto the triggers and give the bottom of the trigger a bend outward, slide the wood back down tight. Now get the angle and bend the wood pan on both triggers. Your done. It only goes in the box one way, but you probably already know all this stuff.

Metal on 330's for wolverine. I don't add anything but some will add a roof shingle on top of the metal. I throw snow and spruce branches over the metal pan. Probably not what your doing with them.

I think the small animals like the wood better than the plastic. No studies, just tracks in the snow, has proven to me it works well in my area on my animals.

Wood pans. Not metal. I make mine out of 3/8" plywood. I make them about 2-3/4" across and 1-1/2" the other way, (approximate). Take a 1/8" drill bit and drill 2 holes through the middle of the plywood going the short way, (you are drilling through the edge of the plywood). Do this in the middle of the pan, aligning the holes with the top of the trigger wires. Slide the pan onto the wires, leaving around 3/8"-1/2" space between the pan and the trigger wire bracket. You need that space for when you bend the pan and wires so the pan sits about 20 degrees up from level. That is important. You don't want the pan level with the ground but rather tilting up a bit. The idea isn't to trip the trap while stepping on it but rather pushing it down with their chin or chest.

MTP used to sell a "skunk special" 160 with a kill bar. It came with a wooden pan.

I set up my pans the same as AV. Don’t see a reason to go back to wire triggers, that pan set up is money.

Make the pan small enough so the trigger wires stick out past the pan then just put a slight bend in the end of the trigger wires.

https://mntrapline.com/products/hardwood-pan-for-110-120

This is what MTP sells. Or you can make the.