Im building marten boxes tomorrow.

Any added Ideas?

I do have a question on 120 spring slots.
How deep,
Settin the trigger on the bottom, How far from the top , with spring slot centered,, and How far from the bottom?

Have you seen Tom Krause sets? I think he passed but might find something with google!

If legal I would cut spring slots only 3 to 6 inches deep.After putting the conibear set in the slots I would also put the springs either down or up.This would help steady your trap.Try either way and see what you like.Springs up would push the trap towards the bottom.Springs down would push the trap up.If you decide on pushing the trap down just make sure you have enough room so the trap dog clears.You can also cut your spring slots at diffrent hights to your liking.I would make one trap first seeing where you want your slots before making a bunch of boxes.I also like wire mesh on the back of my boxes so the marten can see all the way thru the box.

Might have to fool around with the brand of trap you’re going to use. Some of my boxes slots are only 3” deep in the 1/4” plywood and the slots not narrow enough, the traps not secure enough. 3” is ok, but I cut mine very narrow and 4-5” deep so I can bend the springs up to hold the trap in. They can use the kill bar as a handle if they want, or they can crawl on the springs while checking out the box without knocking the trap out. Waxed Belisle 120s and the box is good for even the little ermine.
It also depends on how thick the wood you’re using is. Might want to make a test box to play with.

If you use two pieces of plank (at least 1" thick and 3" wide) on two opposite sides of the box in the back, you can use scraps of even very thin plywood to make pretty sturdy boxes, because all walls are held together by nails or screws that go into solid wood and not into plywood/OSB. Assembly is also much easier this way because the plank pieces create right angles. You can also use a bit less mesh in the back this way.
Also, dipping the plywood or OSB into copper sulfate solution prolongs its life quite a bit because most of the wood decomposition is done by fungi and copper kills fungi.

I have victor and Blake and :Lamb 110's apx 1980 models. I have about 250 and plan to highjack the springs off of about 60 110s that had been remodeled And Ill be giving away the parts at the next trappers convention.

my boxes that I made 10 years back were 6.5 inches inside I dont need the width , all tops and bottoms will be 3/4" plywood sides will be 5/8th (or 19/32)
After some more experimentation on my part Ill be making the inside of the box 6" wide,
forcing the springs down and the trap to the top of the box with a 1/2" plus space for the bottom jaws and trigger assembly
Ill also make the spring slot just slightly tighter !/16.

Im retired and really cant move too fast anymore Years back I had plans to trap with buddies to run trapline in our retirement And this was going to be my first big year. Believe it or not my big disappointment is high fur prices,,I would rather catch more and receive less of a paycheck

Thanks for the suggestion


Im using cheap CDX : 3/4 " on the top and bottom, 5/8th on the sides , and 1/2 and 5/8th for the back

If Im lucky Ill get 5 seasons out of me, so I'm not worried about the life of the boxes. depending on weather Ill trap 10-20 days per year

I thinking of coating and using Copper sulfate would help with getting rid of that new bright colored veneer

I was also planning on Pre treating the top inside of the boxe with beaver castor and separately mink gland,,

Does anyone use skunk inside their boxes in the lower 48?


What better way than wire to fasten the trap to the box ? Easier in the cold ( none of my traps have chain) and keep the fur away from the tree

I put the skunk up high and beaver caster in the box.

That what I was doing with the few sets I had last seasoned

Thse are the boxes I made 10 years ago, and used last fall,, My set will be simular this coming season