I’ve been getting my old pickup camper ready to use. Never buy one in the pouring rain. They assured me everything worked just fine. Then ghosted me after I tried to contact them about the undisclosed issues. So I’m slowly getting it into a usable state. The one positive is there are no leaks. It stays dry.

The water heater control had a crack in it so I replaced it with a Robert Shaw 1637 which was suggested as the replacement for the old one. Now when I light the pilot all I get is a lot of yellow flame. The orifice is clear as is the tube from it to the burner. I’ve tried full open to full closed on the air gap. No change in flame. I’d like to not have to heat water on the stove so would appreciate any advice and insight. Thank you.

I use the electric element so there isn't any carbon monoxide. Do you know about those? Maybe no elect?

Buying a used camper water heater shouldn't be too hateful I wouldn't think. Swap it out maybe?

"Adjusting the oxygen-to-gas ratio on a water heater is controlled by the air shutter at the burner, not directly on the Robertshaw 1637 gas valve. To adjust it, turn the gas control knob to "OFF", open the burner compartment doors, loosen the air shutter's locking screw, and adjust the opening to achieve a solid blue flame.

"https://www.google.com/search?q=how...EMTAuOMgHE4AIAQ&sclient=gws-wiz-serp


3. Adjust the Shutter
Loosen the Screw: Use a screwdriver to slightly loosen the locking screw on the air shutter.

Adjust the Gap: Slide the shutter to change the size of the air intake slots.
If the flame is too yellow or roaring/sputtering: Close the shutter slightly to reduce the air intake.
If the flame is too lazy, dark blue, or the burner is producing black soot: Open the shutter to allow more air into the mixture.

Preliminary Setting: A good starting point for the air gap is about 1/4 to 1/3 open.

That’s what I did. I adjusted the air gap from no gap to wide open with no change in the flame. The link you gave me told me to do what I already tried.

Not sure if this helps

Seems like acient technology, kind of like the Dickenson boat stoves that for some reason are still being made.
Couldn't you replace that with a more simple on demand LPG water heater?

I think I am going to spend the money for a tankless. I did all the things mentioned and the pilot flame is still orange. And to be honest 6 gallons of hot water is a pretty small amount. The tankless option really appeals to me.

^^^^
You'll be happy with that decision I think.

Orange flame is the ratio of gas to air mix. Typically means too little air. Adding air usually helps. Adding too much air can make the flame go out or it wont light but I suspect can also make an orange flame. There is usually a sweet spot which is what you use a monometer for. Usually there is an orifice all the air passes through and another orifice all the gas passes through. Typically you put your monometer around each of those orifices and set the one to say 3" of water and the other to 1.5" of water. Whatever ratio your burner says to set it to... thats the ratio you are shooting for. I don't know how that applies to camper water heaters but now that you mentioned a tankless option I may consider that for my camper but typing it I wonder if there is a dual fuel tankless for campers; both electric and propane.

Cheap analog monometers can be had. Usually there is a nipple on each side of the orifice, you loosen the set screws up in each orifice so they can breath, and put the tubes on those nipples. Maybe a camper water heater doesn't have all that though buts that how you set a burner. There is actually a graph for the burner. X axis is one number of the ratio and Y axis is the other number of the ratio and depending on what ratio you pick corresponds with the graph for that burner and is how you control its output to be really hot or turned down to be less efficient.

If adjusting the air isn't working start looking for blockages that would limit the flow that may make your adjustments useless. Something blocking air flow? Something blocking gas flow? Spec of dust blocking an orifice? (thats what a monometer helps you find.)

monometer example ---> https://a.co/d/02ZkJnLM

Anyway, hopefully that helps somebody.

Thanks for the information. I don't know how I could get more air to it. No blockages. I've cleaned every tube that carries gas or air and opened the air intake fully. The orifice is clear. I'm of a mind that the new controller is pushing too much gas. I don't have a monometer and there are no nipples at or near the orifice. At this point I've pretty much decided the tankless is how I'm going to go. I wish I had known they were available for campers when I spent the money for the new controller. At the time it just didn't cross my mind that they had drop in tankless heaters that would go right in the existing opening.

Man. A drop in on demand sounds like the ticket. I may have to shop for one now. Sell the controller on ebay and say you got the wrong one for your setup or something maybe.

FYI - you can have an endless supply of hot water but... your waste tank is still only so big if you don't have a sewer hose hooked up. Cold half crappy camper shower is what keeps the wife and kids from filling the tank every four hours.