Saw this coni pan and trying to figure out how it attaches to the trap.
It would seem that it’s not a simple block of wood with holes drilled into them for the coni wires to go in.

I have some of them on mine. They work. Pull the wires out and drop them in as long as your trigger mount has the one hole in it.

Best pans mede

You’ll have to drill out or unbolt the trigger wire assembly and reattach with probably a #10 x3/4”machine screw and 8x32 thread Nylock nut. If your trap is a duke, replace the wire holder with a Minnesota brand one as they are thicker gauge and there will be less play later when you fine tune the trigger assembly…

Sometimes the dog will seat rather deeply and you can smack it a little flat on the anvil…and lengthen that oval out again later if it is too shallow. It’s hard to do that the other way around after assembly.

These pans are painted plywood and Thats a heavy duty drowning lock the pan is attached to…with #6 screws

I just keep spare pans handy as a foot caught coon can chew up and destroy an amazing amount of wood.

Foxkidd44, I have been using these pans for many years on 160s and 220s. Remove the rivet and wire trigger on the body trap's trigger and bolt the pan on with the bolt that comes with it. When the trap is in box or cubby have the pan on the outside jaw facing in. The pan should be slightly angled up as it goes in. Works on everything from weasel to bobcat. Small animals step on the pan, large animals trip it with the neck or chest. No wires to break off after a catch. They are made out of oak and will last forever unless an animal chews them. I have been manufacturing these for many years and Cumberlands is the main distributor. They work great for fisher and bobcat while also catching incidental weasel, mink, and marten. Also work great on skunk and raccoon.

It looks like 90 degrees bend. That is not the way. You want the pan to tilt up a bit. The idea isn't to have the animal step on the pan, but rather "push" the pan, either with a forward moving foot or even better, it's chest.

The angle on my pan, the one that Cumberlands sells, is about a 45 degree bend. It is also light enough to be bent by hand so you can get the angle you want.

bent by hand so you can get the angle you want.
That probably is what makes this most productive aspect.

R.Scott good information...will check into it on the Cumberland's website.

That's a pan worth looking into.

Anybody ever try the aluminum pans that TC trapping supplies are selling?

Awesome explanation guys… absolutely appreciate the feedback.

None of mine are a 90 degree bend which is easier to see once you’re they are set…I put the pan facing out and attached to the inside jaw, works great. I have 90 of them set as we speak for nest predators…ie:skunk, coon, Franklin ground squirrel.My traps are fine tuned so that when a Franklin steps up on the pan , he gets caught. So will a lined ground squirrel or a weasel and any thing larger.

Anyone remember Tom Krause pan set up for marten boxes?

Those looks too complicated and heavy.

I cut a piece of plastic corrugated sign board into squares about 2"x3" bend the two wires into a V, then bend the V to the angle you want, sqeeze the V together slightly and slip the two wires into the corrugation holes. The wire V springs back slightly and holds the pan on by tension. If I want, I can always pull the pan off and bend the wires into another configuration if I want to.

This corrugated sign board material is easily obtained from election campaign signs in early November just before trapping season