It appears that they are no longer being made. Anybody know the story? I have used them for years but let them go when I left Alaska and sold my many Alaska-oriented traps. I sure could use a couple now.

Kurt Beaugard...made them for years and just decided to hang it up

Probably a couple of dozen along the Willamette river shoals you could find with a medal detector during summer flow. I never got down to cabling them to the traps so lost 'em all eventually.

I actually find 3/8ths rebar cut into 24-30" lengths far better in the kinds of places I trap and it doesn't matter much if I lose a few during the season.

I’m sorry to hear that they are no longer manufactured. They are a pretty easy DIY project to fabricate & weld or as I did make my own using the principle but not neccesarily a carbon copy as you can see in my videos with my beaver skaters (name after those little skater insects you see on still water)
https://youtu.be/0g5yx0RKw7U?si=07uHvRPysQNJx9Se
https://youtu.be/pVP-0b9M6bY?si=Vz3O7027cYa-yw9w

I bought a half dozen of those once.
Hated them always tangled up with traps,and never held the trap solid.
I was going to trash them a couple years ago until I heard a local trapper used them so gave them to him.
I consider them junk.

Me too.

Junk? Hardly . . . bring yours to the fall rondy, Gary, if you've got any left. I'll take 'em off your hands.

KB stabilizer with a #150 bodygrip tethered with paracord. The bottom edge dream set for mink and 'rats on non-rock substrate.

After using the skaters I cut the 4 horizontal legs off and added a pair of 6” vertical legs. I liked them that way better so I could just stick’em in rather than sit on and stay put after the trap has fired, no problem for me to retrieve since I had placed the trap there as well. The principle of offsetting a coil spring properly was the trickiest part of making them work correctly.

Before transporting them, tie your paracord to the stabilizer and through the coil of the spring of the #150. Lay the #150 flat on the stabilizer, and wrap the extra cord around the unit. Tie the cord off to a part so it says in place. Load these up in a bucket or packbasket and away you go. Time to make a set, reach in, grab a unit, unwind cord, set #150 on stabilizer and tie off to something nearby. No tangles. You can pack dozens of these together without a problem.

Perhaps you tried to anchor a #110 size trap on the stabilizer. That is not a good fit, as the bend in the jaws does not allow the trap to set evenly on the stabilizer. The #150 takes care of this with the wider jaws.

Sidenote: I've used this stabilizer on traps from #150s up to #330s.

Anyway . . . they work for me.

No Mr. rat I don't have any. I gave them away just like Boco. And I'm with seldom they needed legs on them so they could be actually STABILIZED. I liked those stabilizers where a 110 H stand was welded to a 3-foot section of rod. Stabilized and staked all at the same time. And you could actually stand on the bank and with a hook you could pull up the trap and remove the catch. And then slid the trap back down the rod. Well, that was a bit more difficult. LOL

Just like a lot of things, they serve a particular purpose. I tried a dozen with 330s and 150s. Worked good when setting on rocky bottoms or concrete. Been making my own for about 10 years for very cheap. Mine have horizontal legs that can be bent to adapt to rocky set sites. Most of my 150s have a 6" spike that replaces the jaw rivet opp. the spring side. I use these the most on sandy or gravel bottoms. The KB style definitely has its place though if you want to be able to set every possible scenario.
..

I sold a lot of KB products lots of stabilizers even the first model, I believe that Sterling fur sells the stabilizer. I still have some new ones I will be bringing to the FTA in August He has a lot of good ideas still ,(Kurt) the trap he invented has been copied but never equaled , I use it for everything----I don't have any to sell!

There are pro’s & con’s to using about any stabilizer/holder which all depends on the perspective of the trapper/user! I personally did not like the 4 legs and found that 2 vertical legs pushed into the bottom worked far better for me. I use them at every under-ice otter set I make at crossovers and find them very easy & efficient to use. The problem with the manufacturer quitting making them is that most trappers don’t understand how to DIY the coil spring principle in relation to the stabilizer which is the entire concept of the KB!! Also, there is a good reason why I don’t use KB’s at BE sets, choosing either plated trap stabilizers or horizontal rerod spikes.

Two truckloads of Georgia otters have died in 280s clipped onto a KB stabilizer on crossovers for me. Easy to use and plenty stable....even on a slope.

I have 2 dozen and put an 18" 3/32" cable on each one and then clip that onto the 6ft tie off 1/8" cable on the 280.
Always turn the 280 and the KB with the cables on the same side so you have slack in the stop-loss cable and so it isn't laying across the trail.

Years of BG killin' with this setup.

If you do ever cable them to your traps it goes a long way towards making a big tangled mess later, I have a few hanging up, and haven’t thought to use them for a while now.

I used them once in a great while in rocky bottoms and they were fine.

I never had any "tangled mess" problems. The Belisle 280 didn't give the otters enough time to tangle anything.

Me Beav and Les know what we're talking about-throw that junk away.

Typical ^^^^^ from you.

You gotta admit though I am very seldom wrong.