A few more questions,, I will be using boxes for pine marten , mounting boxes vertical at chest level, on 10-24 inch mostly spruce, some fir trees 25-100 yards from the road , I will try to somewhat hide the set/marten box
Ive posted this earlier,,, , my new build boxes are similar,


What if any do you use flagging for marten? what, where and how?
All 110:1980's conibears with added spring to be 120's My boxes are designed for the 3 slot trigger on the bottom,: W hat position and shape do you suggest the trigger wires be placed,

I have solid boxes and plan to replace caught marten with a "fresh trap, I had #14 wire above the spring slot out front , I don't trust thin wire What's a quick easy way to remove then attach a fresh springs pre-set trap,,,


Ive posted this pic before





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How bout a toggle through the spring eye?

Never even thought of that

Quicklinks could work.

Good discussion here with a couple vids on why trigger set up is important.....
https://trapperman.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/8569280/other-stuff-to-think-of#Post8569280

Trigger set up for a marten trap will depend on what side of your box you anchor to to keep marten elevated. You could modify by adding anchor to both sides. Catching a trigger wire occurs, but is fairly uncommon. Maybe once or twice a year, mostly because wires are not in alignment.

I remember one time I jammed up right on the tips of the wires.

Alsop trying to stay cheap

The spring attachment on my other boxes was out front, kind of the top right corner and behind where the springs would be mounted in the slot,

Short to keep above the ground and away from tree sap.

Eveidently my brother once stated "the race is won in the garage"

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I want everything prepped, I do not want to be making sets , or trap adjustments in the mountains,. Ill be move too slow yhe way things are anyway.