I came into possession of 1/2 dozen Bridger 155s and must say, not a trap I am fond of. The springs are certainly strong enough, but other than that....junk. First off, the spring eyes are so small that they will not pass over the swivel area of the jaws, making setting them by hand very difficult. I have never needed a pair of setters to set a small body-grip before.
Then there is the huge dog. That thing is huge. Probably 1/8" or more thick and so long you could use it on a #330.
And safeties? Come on. They are made of what appears to be thin stainless round stock, almost wire, with one pointing up and the other pointing down? And are so long that even with both engaged you can't break the jaws over.
Overall, I find this trap poorly thought out and am surprised Tim Caven/Minnesota Trapline Products. would sell, (and OWN the company), such an inferior product.
Anyone know where I can find better safeties and dogs for this trap? Preferably the Belisle-type for both.

I'm mostly an "it is what it is" kinda guy........and from what I have seen Bridger BG's are junk. Equally bad in the small trap sizes were Sleepy Creek 110, 120, etc. As to fixing the Bridgers, not sure that juice is worth the squeeze. I did fix a Bridger 160, which is made of heavy wire stock about same size as a Belisle 220. Very strong springs......it is a hammer. Problem was that dog and trigger clip, which in my hands could not be tuned. Wires would rotate nearly 45 degrees before trap would fire. But it could be replaced with a Belisle trigger clip, which I did and now it is one of better 160's I have. It's not far off a Belisle 160. Safeties not very good, but get it set and it is pretty good.

If wanting some 155's Duke are current pick of the litter and once tuned, they will do the job.

If one really studies the features and parts of body grip traps, the differences between what makes it a good trap and one that is not are very subtle, but very significant. Things like very thin dogs.......which have half the surface area of a thick fat dog......and thus far less friction so takes no effort when moving the trigger wires to get trap to fire. The spring eye sizes need to be right and helps if they don't wrap around the corners. And size of the spring eye coils seem to make them more powerful. But real difference is in the trigger wire clip. That is where all the tuning takes place on nearly every trap I've dealt with. Not only to be sensitive to fire easy, but 4 way clips, etc. The magic is in that trigger wire clip. Many ways to screw that up.

Belisle being in a class of it's own, BMI was not far behind. They were really, really good. Duke getting better. Bridger coming in dead last. What Bridger out to do is hand their builders some BMI traps and have them copy those.

Why make yourself crazy?, move em out ,and get something you can work with, lol

It seems to me that the fastest small conis are the old square jaw ones, yes the spring eye does go around the corner. I have welded small triangles on the jaws at the end of the travel area to get them to close fully and that stops the spring form going around the corner on that side. I do not have any bridger conies of any size......jk I have posted this before

I too noticed this when I got some newer 155s ,,, eye springs are too blasted small
there’s a video on YouTube ( I can’t remember what channel) but the individual did show how to fix the sloppy trigger on the 155.
My first ever body grips were 110 bridgers that I ordered on a 1-800 number from Bridger fur company around 1987? 1988? I didn’t have any problems with them,,

This was a video Dale Billingsley did on what I think was a 280. Not sure he ever really got it tuned. I had same problem with a 160. That was one I swapped out to Belisle clip and trigger and problem solved. The problem I had with Bridger 150 (I think it came free with Minn Trap order) was small eyes and it would not stay set. I finally fixed the setting problem, but not the small eye problem. I painted it but it rusted pretty bad making setting it even worse. It no longer gets used. Much easier and better traps to work with.

This is good discussion here. Do any of you know if this trigger issue applies to the 120`s? I have been considering getting some of the Bridger 120`s but.....?

So this winter I got some of the RBG 330`s/440`s, added to the 440 pile for a total of 9. This spring I just happen to look down at the trap as I was relureing and here the trigger was standing at about a 45 degree angle towards the set. That was a shocker. By the time it was done, I had a total of 7 that had the triggers swept aside including 2 going back out. Now there`s a couple of lucky Beaver! I just went and checked those triggers like what Dale was doing here in that video. No bending the bracket on these RBG`s. I did take the trigger and dog off one of the 330 Belisle`s and put that on the RBG. The RBG dog is fine, but put together with the Belisle trigger, that`s the ticket. Works perfectly.

Todd S. has a great video on the Bridger 150 and the trigger issues. His solution is replacing the stock trigger with 220 triggers. Works like a charm. I purchased 10 dozen when they first came out and they sat in the fur shed corner due to the trigger issues. Slowly replacing the triggers/ 220 triggers.

Bridger 120 magnums have one huge problem- the safety grips are too long. WHen hooked, the jaws are almost closed. It takes quite an effort to open them. I cut all mine off at the curve and re-bent them all. Alot of work that I shouldnt have had to do. I have no trouble with spring eye size in my estimation.

Appreciate the info Dean.