Planning on picking up some boards at the FTA. We are new to putting up fur. Should we go with adjustable or solid boards?

Both will work.
Adjustable - one common board (get ones with tail boards/corrugated sheet for pinning the tail, if you do that. No wedges required. May dry fur faster because of open center. They are more expensive/piece.

Solid boards - will require multiple sized boards. Don't forget wedges, sometimes needs multiple wedges to get fur off the board. No tail boards required if you pin tails. They are cheaper/piece, but you will need more boards to cover all sizes of coon and wedges are often extra.

Third option is the wire stretcher #23, #4 , #5 (depending on manufacture) - least expense option/ piece. Typically requires 2 sizes to cover size range. Dries fur fastest. Does not produce the best/preferred presentation favored by auction houses for uniformity. Faster fur put up. Lowest storage space volume needed.

I use wood, have both solid and adjustable boards, got solids first, adjustables became available later. I think everyone has forgotten to put in a wedge when using solid boards and you appreciate an adjustable board right then. I don't put up large volumes of coon so don't use wire.

Thank you. I was looking at Top Lot Stretchers and after buying the wedges the adjustable aren't much more so I didn't know if I should go that route? But the solids look easier to use?

I like solid boards for a uniform look

I've never had a fur buyer turn down or lower the price on raccoon because of what kind of board it was put on. I use adjustable and find them quite adequate. And further, after hearing fur buyers say about raccoon, "Tails don't matter." when someone hands over a raccoon pelt that only had part of a tail on it I made a decision. When I skin one I split the tail out about 3" and when I pull the legs down and get my fingers around the bone and the pelt pull. Where ever the skin stops I cut the tail off. I usually have about 2" of the tail left on pelt. Saves a lot of time messing around with fleshing and pinning out the tail. Never had a complaint from the buyer nor had my price cut.

I use solid boards. Very easy to use. I made all my belly wedges. Any scrap wood will work.

I use solid boards. You can't get the right shape with an adjustable board. And shape and size is an industry standard.
Not sure on the tail thing but I have been docked when a few coon tails have been missing. Coon tails are worth some money to the fur buyer.

And put your wedges through the mouth area. That head and neck area dries harder then the of the hide since it has little or no fat. A wedge in the tail area will also make removing the hide a bit easier.

Thank you all. Looks like we will be locking up some solid boards at the FTA. Looking forward to some great demos and a great convention

My tails are left whole and on. The bidders that are crafters WANT that tail on for their coonskin hats. At least at the local auctions I go to.

I use solid boards. 7 1/2" board works for my area. Also have 7" for smaller Coon.

I like the uniform look of solid boards-

I mark correct sizes on boards. This gives me a guide for pinning. I don't over stretch.