This is what I came up with as far as a drowner to use on my mink, rat, and coon line with my pocket sets.
6’ of 1/8” cable running from an 18" oak stake, terminating with a WF anchor and a standard L lock using an S hook to attach to the trap.
I’ll be curious to see how many catches the cable will endure, but it’s definitely going to be a big time saver compared to my old setup of two t-bars and #14 wire.

Looks nice and compact. I haven't had good luck pounding in wood stakes. I always end up splitting a lot of the wood stake tops

I can definitely see that being an issue in certain soil conditions. These will primarily be used in field drainage ditches with a lot of silt and muck. Shouldn’t have to beat them too hard with the hammer to get them in. The seasoned oak should help with splitting issues. I have definitely run into problems using pine and other softwood in the past.

might want to make an adjustable setup. the more slack in your setup, the more kinks you'll get . you can play with angling the cable but there's a lot of guesswork and you really don't want to guess when dealing with using disposables because that's a headache to redo

Use earth anchors on both sides brookshire heavy duty set deep end first pull slack out on the shallow side reusable and also less noticeable

I use pogo anchor on deep end, 6 feet cable, 3/8 inch diameter, 24 inch steel T stake at top end, also use swivel as a drowner, two swivel points better in case coon or otter get into the set I believe.

I definitely like the idea of adding swivel points, I’ll have to go through my parts bin and see what I have that I can add to the lock end.

Red O’Hearn shows this set up in his book and videos. In a sandy bottom, I’ve found such set up works well. Kendall Obermeier has a similar set up he makes and sells. They work well but I’m more prone to the 1x2, cable and Berkshire stake ends. When I used this set up, I found galvanized 3/32 cable lasted for years.

Teacher, glad to hear a similar setup has worked well for you over the years. I was certain that I wasn’t the first to come up with the idea. I’ll have to check out some of O’Hearn’s books.

Make a driver something that will fit over the end of your stake. Then weld a piece of re bar to the driver end. Now you won't have to carry a hammer just raise and lower the driver and you can drive the stake out of sight and not get wet.
I would drill that hole for attaching your cable a bit lower so you can make your driver end a bit deeper. The way I attached my cable I just drilled the hole and ran the cable through the hole then I ran the cable through a washer and then beat on a cable stop.
And to reduce the splitting issue you should drill the hole farther down the stake. The closer to the end the bigger your chances are to have your stake split. But for sure oak will make a difference.
The other thing you going to run into is stake removal. Once that wood stake is driven into any wet ground it's going to swell up, and you might not be able to pull that stake.

Good luck your system should work just fine the way it is.

I have tried about every configuration of drowner - fasteners for a "wet set" and always have went back to 2 - 3/8" 20-24" rebar T stakes on 1/8" diam. cable, two lengths color coded, a 10' and 6' for sets in our soils. It covers all the locations I use. I did the weight and math about every year and the T stakes win out (durability, mind ease and flexibility wise). All drowners get us an every other day check regulation as opposed to a non drowner. Added a swivel to the bank end of the cable to eliminate any twist in recent years but wonder if it is really needed. Dig a pocket with the Tee, stretch the cable, stomp both (land and water ends) in with my foot (no driver or hammer or tool to CARRY IN and BACK from the set when made,,,,, and remember any extras weigh more as a combo than 2 T's). I'm all about simple mind (that's me) simple process, simple lazy (me again). You can make a double set with 3 rebars in the shape of the V and only need to stomp 1 rebar on the deep end for the two drowner cables. plus both cables are the same length above or at the soil substrate. One isn't buried 12" and the other 18" shortening the cable length. Rebar shortcomings are: bulk in the truck and weight and you need to be handy with your (or a friend's) welder too (or a table saw if using wood). Time would be the same as cutting and drilling a wooden 1" or 2"X2" stake. Wood is lighter (as stated) and takes up about the same space as a T. T's are easier for my back when pulling and moving a stake than an anchor (and if you cut the anchor cable, that trap is out of use until you affix a new cable). If you wrap your cable you will need to store the wood stakes and traps together. I wrap my traps with their colored cable and store in crates with the rebar stored in the mail tubes you all use as mink boxes. Plus I use them (T's) double duty to stake beaver BG's and snares. I live where the soil is conducive and favors a metal stake for the water but I realise you fellows may not have that condition to work with. My experience. ........................... the mike

You guys who trap in dirt make me jealous step in a stake is crazy to read