i start mine about 1/2" below the ears (at the base of the head). first i take a sharp knife and at the correct angle to the beam, i begin to cut through the grisel area right down to the hid...be careful not to cut too deep!!! from here i take my fleshing knife and start to push...if you did it right, and got below the grisel, you will just be able to peal it all off with very little effort and leave none left on the hide. Get in a rhythem and follow that for all your critters you put on the beam and you will progressively gain speed.
i start by brushing the fur after skinning and removing any burrs, etc. if its dirty i wash and dry it before i go to the beam. from here i put the coon on the beam with the back up and peal down as far as i can go (im short and have a short wing span) then i turn to the right and repeat. once i have made a complete pass all the way around the critter i pull it up on my beam (where its comfortable for my reach) and repeat until i get all the fat, meat and grisel off! pay special attention to the belly, this is where alot of new fur handlers tear holes as this is a thin area. i personally dont flesh the whole tail, just about 2" down then stop. sew up any holes you have made or were in the critter before you got to him. i use a curved needle (i bought from my vet) and standard flesh color string (sold on the bobbin from wally world). keep your stitches small and tight, pull all the hair back through the hole. i put 40 stitches per inch. that ought to tell you how tight i keep mine...every 3 stitches, i tie a half hitch to help keep things together.
next you board the critter, i use wood imo it gives a better appearance. and since you asked for coons i'll tell you how i do mine....all my boards are marked with the sizes as given from NAFA...pull the coon down tight but dont over stretch. insert a pushpin on at the hip, keep a straight line (as straight as possible...NAFA measure to the shortest hip) this usually takes 3 pins per side...i pleat the hips to give a fuller appearance to the back fur...spread the tail out and tuck it up slightly again to give a fuller appearance to the back fur and pin the edges down (i use up to 7 pins in the tail but use as many as you need). flip the board over and pull the left leg down and towards the center slightly and pin down with 2 pins at the base of leg, repeat on the right leg...now pin down the sides to the side of the board...take a sharp knife and just above the penis (or to the second/third tit line) cut your window down to each leg creating a "horseshoe" shaped window for the grader to view your pelt. put a pin at the top of this window and 2 on each side of the window to keep the it from pulling back as it dries... PUT A BELLY BOARD IN!!!! if you forget this step the critter will dry tight and i mean tight (Native Americans use to wrap prisoners in hides and douse with water...when it dried, it literally crushed em!!) if this does happen, wrap with damp rags until rehydrated and then, re-dry the hide with a belly board this time.
for coons you dont have to turn the fur, they are fur side in on the stretcher...but you do have to turn canines.
im no expert, but this is how i do mine...
mallard_drake85
