I setup a job for a coon making his/her way into a roof where the porch roof meets the entry roof. I had to secure a trap in that spot. I raised a few shingles and screwed a piece of lathe under the shingles. I did have to run a screw through the shingles. I plan to put silicone in the hole when I pull the trap. What other ways do yall suggest securing a trap to the customer's roof?

Thanks

I would suggest not to. I would set where it comes down to the ground, or if you have to put something under the trap where it can't reach the shingles which you may have done.

Pictures would help. I typically try to use a #160 in an open ended bucket or corrugated drain tile. Even then, a sheet of plywood underneath as needed. Every situation is different. On the rare occasion that I put a screw through shingles, I use black roofing tar to cover the holes instead of silicone. If using a cage, make sure you have 6" or more of plywood on all sides, again depending on type of cage and how big the openings in cage material is.

I'm using a "green hornet" like cage with a 160 in it.

To the left of the gutter

We never set a cage on a roof for coon or in an attic.

You suggest on the ground near the down spout, tree, etc that they are climbing to gain access?

thanks

same here, never on an shingled roof. always find where they are gaining access to the roof

If it makes you feel better you can construct a secure platform to attach you trap to securely. Too much liability potential with setting traps for coon on a roof. You are rolling the dice each time that you do that in my experience and opinion.

never put a cage on the roof why too much work involved, never mind that you may cause more damage than already there even on the ground a coon can cause lots of damage they like to reach and grab whatever they can and pull it into the cage (bbq covers) if i had too put a cage on a roof i would attach it on a piece of plywood which was a foot bigger than the trap all the way around.A one way door would work better in this situation and a trap on the ground is the way too go

One way doors arent a good idea on a roof either. If they want or need back in as many do at certain times of the year they will do more damage to get in. If they have young you definitely are going to have trouble doing that.

K9, a one way door could cause just as much damage from a coon trying to get back in.

Depending on how you do business, I don't like the ground trapping for attic or chimney coons, because I don't want to catch every animal that walks through the yard, skunks, opossums and coons that may not be the problem. I try to target the problem animal(s). Obviously every situation is different, use the technique that fits the situation. Make sure, in writing, that your customer is aware that you will do everything in your power to prevent damage, but wildlife is unpredictable and may not follow the script. I've had raccoons bust out/in from another weak spot (gable vents, soffit and dormers ) multiple times. You can only control so much.

Bob replied as I was typing.

This is a lethal set inside a cage so I am hoping for little to no damage. I have added cages at suspected points of egress; down spouts and brick corner pillar(s).

yeah i should have added that dont stop momma from getting back to her babies most customers are going to call right away when they hear critters in there attic but there are a few that surprise you if we think there is babies we will usually use eviction paste on the hole and put some on tennis balls

This what I do as well. I'll put a screw thru a shingle. Afterwards , gently lift on the shingle just enough to put a small piece of trim coil between the layers. Before sliding under, place a quality sealant like solar seal on each side of the metal. Slide it in and press down to get the sealant to come through your screw hole. You can also add a bit more onto it if you like. Get shingles grit out of the gutter and put ontop of the sealant and it disappears.

I use same Comstock and love it for coon. Beware that a coon can get its paw between the door and side of trap, so you need atleast 6" of lumber infront of the door.

All this being said, my first choice is a baited set along their travel route to get to the roof. Carrying a raccoon in that trap down 20' ladder is hard on the wrist when it's moving end to end. I always thought good training would be to place a heavy bowling ball in the trap and climb down the ladder.

To fill the hole left by the screw I just fill it with roofing tar or sealant. ive heard some guys will put the screw back in after sealing it for extra caution not sure if that is necessary

excellent explanation. Thank you

All good until you get that one raccoon that gets pinned by that comstock with half his body sticking out lol... I trap on ground now.

As a retired General Contractor, tar of any type is not the way to repair a hole in any type of roof. For a shingle roof, you need to remove the shingle tab with the hole in it. The upper part of that shingle will go up and under the two shingles above it, (only part way under the second one). There will be nails or staples through the upper part of the compromised shingle tab, and more in the next row, above. You will see this when you carefully lift the shingle above the damaged one. You may need a flat bar for this.
Using a utility knife, cut the damaged shingle out from under the shingle above it and replace with a new one. The alternative is to replace that entire shingle, which is what I would do, as a professional.
Carefully re-nail the new shingle, as well as the one above it, and for the upper one, install new nails in both the hole from the old nail and a new nail about 1-1/2" laterally from the old one.
After the nailing is done, with NO EXPOSED NAILS, use roof cement, under the shingle tabs. This will secure the shingles to the shingles that were not disturbed and prevent them from wind damage.
Nothing to it.