No this topic doesn't involve a figure skating show starring Slim, Asa, and Jtrapper, it's serious. I trap along a large marsh, river and creek that often freeze in the winter providing excellent travel for canines and I am unsure how to utilize these excellent locations. Could anyone share any ice trapping methods for predators? I am paticularly interested in snaring methods, trap anchoring, trap sets and any other tips and techiniques.

I suggest you look at the Wilderness Trapping forum. There is a lot of info archived on different species toward the lower part of the page. Nearly all of it concerns trapping in ice/snow conditions.

270Jake, sometime ago I mentioned trapping on ice on the Alaskan Wilderness Living Forum and it turned into a 3 ring circus. Which was most unfortunet. Truth is I have trapped on ice using a number of methods, including one were you freeze a trap beneath the water and then remove the water from the trap bed. With a super thin layer of ice the trap is freeze proof and undetectable, well, as long as you don't have an overflow, which I now understand they do in Alaska.
In other parts of the world, where the risk of overflow is not so great, it works great and is a super deadly set. Originally, I was wanting a trap I had saw by a French Canadian called Paysho. These were hand made wolf traps and a true work of art. Quite expensive at $140. each but when I want something and can afford it, I buy it. I am having 2 sent to me and can not wait until freeze up, so I can make the wolf set under ice with Paysho's traps. I plan on having someone with a digital camara photograph it , so it can be shown on Trapperman. As luck or not will have it, it will be for demo purposes only, as wolves are protected in the lower 48. Perhaps I'll just catch a big coyote just to show the end results.

I have been for some different options for cat tail edges. Other than freezing the anchor in ahead of time, maybe if you had some good ice you might be able to use an ice screw for an anchor.

They seem expensive but can be reused and put in with one hand wearing mitts.

I have used 3/8 inch t-stakes about 12 to 16 inches long ground to a tapered point with a #9 support wire wound around the T. I drive them right through the ice in the cattails and also can drive them through the frozen dirt in the bog next to the trails the fox use. I also use this as an anchor for my snares by just slipping it through the swivel before I drive it in. It takes a big hammer and a little extra effort but it makes a simple compact unit that is almost invisible and it holds them well. To remove take a vise grip and twist and turn while pulling and they come out MOST of the time. I am still experimenting with this but caught 5 fox in 6 snares in two days last winter so I plan to utilize it more this coming winter.

An upside-down bushel basket with a hole cut in the side and beaver meat works on mink, and might fool a bobcat if they're around (we cannot target them). I believe mink think this is a rat hut.

we use baitsets in these locations, and also freeze in p poles.
I assume there will be snow on top of the ice, i get some produce bags from the grocery store, and place the trap in it then cover with the snow to prevent freezing.
I like to make the bait sets in rather open areas, bordering some thick stuff. I then snare thier trails and use the urine posts.. traps are anchored to either logs or 2 prong drags.
you could also take advantage of the blind set once they start coming into the bait. it is very productive in the open as they won't smell the trap, as they scurry along

Get in touch with Rich Kasper RK660 he has a new snare support out for ice and frozen ground.

Thanks for the help guys!

Hup

how close are you setting to the bait and do you cover it?

270 jake
where we trap things freeze up pretty hard. I have always found the key to sucess is planning and preparation. I try to pick out trails in the bull rushes or even beat my own trails in where I think they will go then I go and put in my anchors and snare supports before freeze up. I will also float my anchors with cable attached beside a trails late in the fall. I mark them with a pole so that I can find them when they are covered with snow. All I have to do is hook on to the drag and I am good to go.
Cheers
Pete

In any event, in case you haven't noticed.........there isn't any ice to make the set, now that I finally got some of Paysho's traps! So, hold your horses.....

Back off the FLAMING before some have to get a vacation .

Posts are spossed to be informative not a battle ground . If you want to continue that take it to PM .

Drifter

I don't know what Drifter is talking about, but Grey and Hup are now in my radar, so to speak, so be carefull because I'll be paying particular close attention. This is not a battleground, but a learning-ground. Those who want to use it as a battleground will find themselves on the other side of the cemetery fence looking out.

LT,thanks for the compliments about my traps.

I dont know if any of you ice fish but over the last few years I've been seeing guys using cordless drills with auger attachments. With a spare battery they're claiming 20-30 6" holes a day. I'm pictureing a long auger bit and rebar stakes for snares.

Very Important: Slip a disc of stiff plastic on your auger( a bucket lid will work, push the auger shaft through the plastic so it remains on the shaft and wrap the shaft above the disc with duct tape so it cannot push through platic.. Reason is, I've seen someone use this and the auger slips out of the chuck and goes down the hole.

Whiskey,
we have had problems with somewhite headed birds, if you trap too close to the bait. I like to set up the bait, in a corner of a open mushkeg or swamp, near cover, I really prefer one with an old or active beaver dam too. I will blind snare a few spots that look promising, but I end up making soem urine posts and wait till they establish trails. then I will blind set them with #4's and mb750's from 20 yds + from the bait. I also then set the urine posts and will snare some trails farther away from the bait.
i also do not like to get my scent around the bait pile often. and avoid snares close to it also.

the mb's I like the best, as in the produce bag they did not freeze up all winter, but the snow would in the spring.

Thanks Hup

I forgot to say, that the beaver dam is an awesome cover they travel, either on top of it, or along side it. the urine posts are usually a couple 10 yds away from the bait, with a drag, and then a few further out.. once again, not too close as those "birdies" hop around the bait alot, and we don't want to catch them.
for bait, we used caribou parts, moose parts, beaver carcasses, food scraps, deer parts.. most of it gets eaten by the birds, but that is fine, as they are like dinner bells, squaking and carrying on.