I'm contemplating making some 120 boxes and running them for raccoons in the state of Missouri this season. It's the largest conibear that we can legally have on land. I remember a few years ago an article in T&PC about using 120's and wondered if anyone had any luck using them. Any insight would be great.

i know 160s work. if its the biggest you can use might as well try it. i use 220s up here

thrstyunderwater, the 120 is a 4 1/2 inch trap. The maximum allowed in Missouri is 5 inches. Because of this, one of our illustrious T-Man members has started building 5 inch traps, just for you. They are built heftier than a 120, with stronger springs, and legal in Missouri. Our own Bill Crum makes em. They are for sale up yonder under the banner for Minnesota Trapline Products. Go to traps, and then to rbg's. They are listed with Bill's RBG's.

Looks like you learn something new every day.

I hear tell they are deadly on them Missouri coons. What I've heard from people who use them is that you have to make your box deep enough so they can't reach in, and set it up so it is 4 to 6 inches off the ground so it is easier for them to poke their heads in. Supposed to get a good catch right behind the ears every time.

I don't know, but I would say underwater is way up in northern MO. Cause southern Mo folks call them coons. See in the south you could be miss understood for say "rekon" if you held the "ooon" to long. Rekon or Rekoooon. So we just call them coons. LOL Underwater I didn't mean to cut in on your post, this is just a carry over from another post. All in fun.

Has anyone ever used these new 5x5 coninbears? If not has anyone on here ever used 120's for coons?

I've never used the new 5x5 conis but i read a article in TP&C about a trapper that used them very sucessfully.

My son has caught a few coon with 120's and 5 x 5's. Biggest problem is keeping them from reaching in with their hand. The ones he's caught over the head have not ever struggled. They make a nice catch right behind the ears. Both traps definately have the smack down power.

ive never used em but i would think bendin down the triggers or even cuttin em down may help prevent paw fires

I dont know if Im right or wrong but a 4.5 inch spread seems really small for coon. What happens if you end up getting a 30 pound coon with a 6 inch wide head.They would probobly be unwilling to jam thier head in that small of an opening.

I ain't never seen a coon with a 6 inch head, and I've caught some big ones.

Disclaimer: there are no coons in southeast Nebraska.

For those of you who have experience with using both 5x5s and 120s, how much difference does the extra .5 in. in the 5x5s? From what I've heard, the 5x5s can be pretty expensive (I don't know the exact prices), so would the financial benefits of the 120s outweigh the size and strength benefits of the 5x5s?

this is my problem here, although i realize that its a matter of leagal bull, i still dont think 120's are good for coons, in fact i was at gander mountain earlier tonight, and my dad, who hasnt trapped since he was my age handed me this thing and said "man theese 120's sure seem bigger than they used to" he handed me a duke 160, which we mutually decided wasnt worth the money, at $7, when in illinois 220's are good as gold and only a few dollars more than a 160, i was gunna give them a shot, but it just dosent seem like they would be anywere near as effective as a 220

Wcrose19, I think everyone agrees that a 160 or 220 is the preferred bodygrip trap for a coon, but the problem is that some states have laws that limit them to 5 inches if set on land. Missouri is one of those states. Nebraska limits you to 5 inches if set on dry land in a public area, but you can go up to a 220 if on private land, which most of it is.

So, Bill, and maybe some others I don't know about, started making these 5 inch bodygrips for those situations. I've never used one. But I've been told by people who have that they are made stouter than a normal 120, and the springs are a lot stronger. I've never held one, but I drew a 5"x5" square on a piece of paper and put a 110 on top of it. The extra 1/2 inch on each side makes a heck of a difference.

here is one the boxs i use it has a 5 inch CTM (RBG) in it





here is one with a 5 inch regular square type its a 126 or what they use to call a 126 (160 springs)

Ray, you wouldn't happen to have a pic of one of the square ones over a 110, would you?

i knew i was kinda strin the pot, i thought it was funny that my dad and i had a simalar conversation earlier... i understand that it isnt leagal and all that, but at a certain point wouldnt it be easier to use footholds and snares and cage traps on dry land? i like to use every possible thing i can, so i understand the want to catch coons in 120's, in a simalar situation i would probably find myself trying it too, but i think in that situation a different type of trap is a better option, just my opinoin

here is one compared to a 110

We can use 220's here and I still don't use many bucket type sets. IMO your not missing out on much but a bunch of possums and skunks.

i like skunks, and i dont mind possums, and i really like bucket sets, if i just knew were to find square buckets i would probably love bucket sets, wish 220's fit in mail boxes like those 5x5's do lol

Wcrose 19
Find someone that has cats. Most kitty litter comes in square buckets now that fit 220's to a T. I have pry half dozen already cut for the springs you could have but shipping them pry wouldn't justify the cost.

several seasons ago, i made up a half dozen 120 boxes about 20" deep. elevated them so the coon would have easier access. shortened the trigger wires a great deal. baited with fish and fish oil. they worked fine. BUT, getting them out of the trap was worse than working with a chinese puzzle. all were suitcased behind the ears with a leg sometimes through it also.

caught a skunk in one, one morning. never dropped a tinkle of "juice"!! deader than a hammer the instant the trap hit him.

the old northwoods 120's do have a five inch spread on them. as do some of the newer brands made for missouri regs. doesn't look like we'll get the 160's or bigger on ground anytime in the near future. so we'll just have to live with using what we can to get by. but, yes they do work.

the grump.

Do you think a pocket popper screwed to a tree 6 inches off the ground with a 120 in it would catch coon?

LOL I'll bet it is bad, They get wedged in 220's pretty bad after rigor sets in I'll bet them 120's would be a real pain.

~ADC~

Ray;
How do you place the trigger wires to avoid a front leg catch?

I will tell you that a 120 will kill a coon right dead in its tracks when properly placed in a "box". As far as trails go 220s are the better choice. I dont have any good photos but take my word after smacked with a 120 in a box they flop over dead!!!!!! Mike

Dugout
i set my trigger wires bent back on about a 45 degree angle.keeps them up high out the way and makes it look like he's just tryin to fit thru a piece a hog wire. top of his head usually raises up just right for the jaws to fit just behind the ears. found several with there heads still in the box thats quick.

Hey Mike good to see ya.

OK, I'll jump in on this one. I've made a bunch of 5x5s and used them for marten, mink, and raccoons. They're deadly on all three. For 'coons, the big thing is avoiding triggering with the paw. My traps have a striker bar on them and they will hold a 'coon by the paw but there's too much room "under the jaws".

To avoid paw catches, I put the trigger on top on the inside jaw and bend it so it's almost horizontal. I also have holes in the tops of my boxes and wire the bait to the top. Occasionally I'll have him caught by a paw and the head, but he goes down quick. My springs are made of 3/16" music wire and the striker breaks the spine about half the time on coons (always on mink and marten). Deep boxes, mail boxes, or buckets are a big help to reduce reaching.

As far as 160s vs 220s. I think 160s kill 'coons quicker than 220s. Like RayA, most of my 160-caught 'coons just fall down. I think 220s catch them a bit further back and they don't get stunned like they do when the 160 (or 5x5) raps them in the base of the skull. That being said, I got a lot of avoidance trying 160s in trail sets- even when they were lifted up off the ground. Now I just use buckets or boxes right next to the trails. They rarely seem to get past the bucket. ;-)

I bait my conibear sets with marshmallows and sweet baits/lures to avoid non-targets. I save the muskrat meat or fish for the dirtholes and pockets with footholds. So far- so good. 34 seasons with no dogs caught.

John

Thanks, Now I understand. I just couldn't envision what y'all were doing.

I think If you funnel properly you can get a coon to try to go through A 5inch trap in trail sets. I would fure sure get the trap up off the ground a good 4 inches with a stabilizer.

I take that back. I know for sure you could catch them in trail sets. If someone sends me a free one to try this fall I will use it and send you the pictures of the dead coon.

For those of you who have experience with using both 5x5s and 120s, how much difference does the extra .5 in. in the 5x5s? From what I've heard, the 5x5s can be pretty expensive (I don't know the exact prices), so would the financial benefits of the 120s outweigh the size and strength benefits of the 5x5s?

If properly placed in the correctly built box the 120 is all you need. For some reason when the 120 wacks them right behind the ears its lights out. Mike

on the 160's, how far in the box does the trap need to be to produce the behind the ears catch yall are talking about.

Hey D, Its not the distance back in the box, its the actual jaw spread size of the trap. Mike

I have used them in Ropac buckets with great success, I cut a hole in the lid fasten it on the bucket then simply bend the trigger perendicular with the trap pointed in.

Note... I also use Belisle 120's I think they would hold an Aircraft Carrier, but have used just regular 120's and they work just as good as long as you can get them behind the ear.

I do not believe that there is a coon so big that they cannot get their head in one if done correctly. But I am sure someone will regale us all with an "I caught this one one time story...."

The last time I posted about catching coons in a 120, the man wanted to see a picture of my coons I caught. So I quit posting on most 120 threads. It was a kinda prove to me what you are talking about thingy.

Don,

You should have sold him a 120 belilse and had him stick his hand in it.....

Proof!

I use round bucketes, with the lids on the buckets. I cut a square hole in the bucket lid. Buckets with lids seems to out catch buckets w/o lids. This is even so with the square buckets. With those I like to use the lid too. Forces the coon to enter the bucket rather than reach under or around the trap. Almost always find the coon dead, half way through the lid, with one front leg inside the lid.

don that was me, i wasnt trying to prove you wrong, i was trying to prove you right, i just wanted to see the proper set up, and just exactly were the trap was hitting the coons

please dont stop sharing just because i asked for a picture, id like it if every post had a pic to explain what was goin on, and if i truly wanted to argue and not gain knowledge after seeing the pic i would have said it was photoshopped

charles;

How far inside lid is the conibear and what size opening do you cut into lid? Thanks for your help! And yours too, Don!

i have caught a pretty good amount of coon in 110's in mink sets and everyone has been stoen cold dead when i got there and someone these were 18 and 19lbs they did flop a good bit but with a tied trap to my box they didnt get far. on teh other hand i have had coons as small as 10 pounds live thru a 220 and bee waiting for me when i got there just a little bruised from teh trap jumping onto them behind the normal spot just my 2cents

all ive ever used is 220's but alot of states can't use them on land ive never heard of TO much with 120's mostly 160's and 220's

For those who keep saying 220s, you have to remember 1 thing. There are states that have a 5" max for bodygrips. They do not have a choice.
Look at the state(s) that can only use snares. Look at the state(s) that can only use cage traps. They do not have a choice and have to make the best of what they have. That is what this post started as. Making the best of 120 sized bodygrips to target coon.

Anybody ever longline with 120 boxes?

ttt

I have PMed with a few guys, but will share with this thread. I make my boxes out of 1x8 pine . The sides cut 14" long, the top should be 16". The over hang of 2" should be in the front. This over hang keeps the coons 4 feet on the ground as to eliminate leg catches. A 1x8 is actually 71/2 inches wide by 3/4 thick, so when you fasten the top to the sides put it on top instead of the sides screwed to the side of the top. This will give you a trap opening of 5" wide by 8" tall. Cut the spring slots in the sides so the trap when set is 1/2" down from the top. The trigger should be cut in half and bent to the outside half way up to the outside. It is important to set the trap with the trigger on the bottom. I have found for some reason coons prefer to push in and down with there chin versus pushing up with the area near their eyes. I find this also explains some leg catches. Also set the trap with the trigger closets to the back of the box. I would not relying on these boxes totaly, some coons dont respond to lure or bait or simply wont go in the box. I think 1/2 to 3/4 of your sets is reasonable. Again this is my way and it works. I have used the 120 and box long before they outlawed 220/160 in my state. Hope this helps. Mike

A lot of the older 110/120's are 5x5 (Northwoods).

I didnt realize that Bob, just always used victors.