As someone who uses 90% snares in winter conditions, I feel compelled to answer this question.
I starting snaring in the late 70's using Raymond Thompson snares. I then went to Grawes, O'Gormans and finally Gregerson's. I, since around 1981, have been a "student" of the Gregerson snare philosophy...having learned much of what I know from Keith Gregerson. That of couse was a stepping stone but it got me going in the right direction.
With Keith's teachings and Grawes snare systems along with the big loop and Long line death lock of O'Gormans, I was running more snares than most guys with a lot more experience...and catching more fur!
After Larry Whitman, who was a lot like Grawes, came out with his system...it was on again with some new ideas and methods.
Over the years I have tried every cable size, type and lock avaiable. Starting out with the 7x7 3/32 on coyotes and'coon for example, to the 1x19 1/16th I use today.
Well all this was started over 29 years ago and after snaring for fur in 7 states and doing ADC work over that period of time , I can tell you what I've learned about snares and snaring, in regard to the treatment of snares.
First and foremost, all snare cable is not created equal! Some have a lot more oil on them than others. Removing that oil will cause steel cable to rust, usually from the inside out. Leaving it on there will cause some problems too...mainly out on the line. One should not let snares that have been boiled sit around for years, to rust from the inside out. Do what you use in a season. Or camo-paint them solid. I am also trying some of Newt's Formula 1 ( in the brown color, which is almost an olive drab) on some snares and then camo painting them after they dry with streaks of camo paint.

After one season, so far so good!
Gregerson taught me to boil snares in baking soda and to pour of the oil that rose to the top. I now use a garden hose to do the same thing. On his snares with his thin low visibility lock, that was all you had to do. Boil 'em and let them bleach out in the sun to a dull grey color.
With Grawes, and O'Gorman's larger locks and heavier ferrels and later the Cam-lock, it became a question of how do I hide them? Or do I even need to?
Q: Can you catch an animal in a bright shinney untreated snare?
A: Of course, I've done it and know of others that have but will you miss some animals in that same snare?
That answer is undoubtably ,YES!
Same goes for larger cable regardless if it's treated or not.
Worst than not treating snares is to dye them jet black.
Most animals see in black and white...so why would you color something jet black and expect an animal not to see it in a brown, grey and green enviroment? Or even worst, under snow conditions?
Today I boil mine in baking soda and let air and bleach out to a dull grey...anything left will be camo painted, even as much as streaking the cable a few times with olive drab, browns and tans...depending on the enviroment I'm in. And yes, I have some white and mixed white ones too for snow conditions, which only last here a month or less. Do I think my snares are better than the guy who does nothing to his?
(Please)!

As a full time ADC trapper I am often asked to remove an animal that has avoided everyone elses traps and snares....Do you think I would go in with any less than the absolte best? Would you?
I don't survive at the top of my game using mediocre eqipment and methods. I want the lightest, strongest camo-colored cable I can get away with and still get the job done!
Me ever fail to get the job done?
Surely you jest! 