Seldom, whats keeping the washer from sliding off the end of the trigger rod? The diameter of the hole in the washer has to be big enough to slide around the bend in the trigger rod and I'm missing what is keeping it from sliding back off. Is the washer just pinched between the bend of the trigger rod and the bracket?

You have to remove the bracket, slid the washer(s) over and around the rod's bend and when you reattach the bracket the washer can't come off.

I'm going to try to washer trick with my Mb 650s . Something else that I was wondering. The guys who are not having problems are you useing setters ? I thought that maybe when you step on the trap. You increase pan tension by putting pressure and inserting dirt into the pan bolt system. If you are using setters you are not squashing dirt in the system . Does this sound logical to anyone .

I did exactly as Seldom suggested. However I did JB weld the washers on and so far this has worked fantastic. Just a little dab will do you and hold that washer in place.

With this modification complete you will have no more problem with pan tension.

I use ONEHANDSETTERS.

What size washer ? I am going to pick some up tomorrow . If this works I would buy a lot of them .

I want to try this mod as well

#8 flat washer

Why do guys buy new traps and for wat ever reason think they wouldnt need too adjust the pan tension? I mean really do you think the guys at MTP or FnT know wat you want or need it set at? Lets get real

Who are you referring to? The tension on my dozen are not consistent at all, neither can I get some of them adjusted down to where I want them.

Seldom, I'm going to try the washer deal and see if it helps.

pan tension changes after trap is snapped . No one is expecting pan tension to be set when you get them . People just want it to stay the same and not change in the trap bed as well . But if the guy at f and t or MTP really knew what we needed . They would just send the trap with a yote already in it . Now that would be great customer service .

LMAO!

LOL I don't think anyone who has posted thinks that. I'm the guy who 2 years ago posted about this problem of pan tension adjustment and I've been at this a long time. Here are my expectations with any trap, I need for the very reasons you mentioned, be able to adjust the pan tension to what I WANT and have it STAY THERE! When I set a pan tension at 3# say, I expect that pan tension to stay at 3#'s until something pyhsical happens to that trap to change it! My Bridgers do and my Dukes do!

Here's the scenario-
I receive 4 doz MB650's and I like the trap. I play a little with them to get their "feel" and do all my prep work to get them ready to use. The last thing I do is remove the wax from the trigger and pan edge and set the trap pan tension the day before I'm going to start setting for the year. I do this and have all pans set at 2.5#-3# and I'm ready to rock & roll. I start setting my line and I'm having about every 4th trap fire BEFORE I walk back to my truck, maybe 20'!! As the day wears on these quick-firing traps are really aggravating me so I turn around and pull the days work. As I'm pulling I find I've got a few traps fired sitting in their beds AND a few that must have had well over 5# pan tension on them!

I start doing some fact finding on the traps ASAP when I got home. The next morning I'm out resetting the line with my Bridgers and Dukes and that night I'm still working on finding out what the deal is with the 650's. I found the problem, as simple as it was BUT I had to spend considerable time proof-testing the fix on maybe 6-10 more traps before I was satisfied enough that I'd found the problem and my solution worked then I had to rework all 4 doz. In my opinion, apparently this trap is designed to need quite close tolerances and when 1 or 2 of it's component's tolerances are off, the dynamics of the trap's system is compromised. The fix is a very simple but nevertheless, a fact-finding fix was certainly necessary and that cost me time and time is $$.