And triggah is always on the bottom

I had some Belisles that were catching otter by the hip. I put a 330 on my bench set and attached a safety setter on it. With a wooden dowel I pushed on the trigger wires until the trap fired. Of course, it only fired as far as the safety setter would let it. I saw that the trigger wires had to be almost horizontal until the trap fired. I remedied that by filing the dog and testing each trap until they fired sooner.

Why? This gives you very poor catches on smaller beaver. I just center it on the bottom in a V. The only time I move it to the side is with baited conis, where they are grabbing the bait, much different situation then a beaver speeding down a channel. For rats, still in a V, but trigger to the side. For mink out of the water, I'm still not sure which is best, but usually put them hanging down in a V- a trip wire helps.

Because you will not get good catches on the big beaver.You will get some refusals and snapped traps by the big beaver not getting far enough into the conibear or turning at the last second.The smaller beaver will be suit cased.

I don't trap for beaver, but here in NY southern zone, due to otters we have to have them to the side. Have trigger regs.....no 4 ways either.

When I tried it, I had hip caught smaller ones. Once I moved the triggers to the bottom, the sprung traps pretty much stopped.

That's better after all these years am still trying to learn.

That describes me.I've been guilty of that and don't use them in big numbers but I'm tuning them now.It is at least as important as on foot traps.

Good point something to work on this winter.

I'm now thinking that my 160's might be better set up when in a "L" and on the bottom. Would like to hear from those of you who have tried it.

Doesn't anyone have any thing to share/

Waxing your traps is the key to having them fire properly for good catches.
Trigger configurations are different for different applications and or set types.

In my younger days I waxed some 110's and had a hard time keeping them set. Caught my fingers too many times and never wax a coni again.

Yup...Nevah wax a coni...but when I do....I just dip the ends,where the spring slides....Nevah on the dog or the bar ,where the dog sets.

I spray paint my dry land traps, do it for few years in row and you don't have to treat them every year. Triggers centered on all traps except 330s at castor sets, set those upside down with triggers in a T.

Adjust your conis first then wax. When ready to use rub the dog against the jaw in the location of your choice then set them. For mink you need a light trigger. WAX them......jk

Good idea and I will try it. HOpe I don't catch my fingers like I did the last time I tried it.

I’ve never beaver trapped before but I got some coni’s now. One new and a few used to try and help a buddy with a beaver problem on his farm. I am going to tune like suggested here. This spray paint post has me thinking...this maybe a stupid question, I know. Can you spray paint a coni that is going in water? Not trying to hijack but I noticed that in this thread and didnt think I should start new for that. Thanks a lot!

Edit: okay I was trying to ask that to Rat Masterson but I dont know how to show his post + mine. Sorry.

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I just took some new 330's out of the box and into the water....you could see the oil floating in the water.....and still caught Beaver. Answer to your question...let the paint dry for an hour....then set them