I recently caught 2 otters and can't figure how they got caught as they did. Bridger 330's, triggers tuned and set on the bottom in a V, these were at a culvert set. I caught 2 beaver in the same 330's and both were caught right behind the head with one set of jaws, neither were suitcased. So I guess both were hit with the entry side jaws? The otters I can't figure, both were hip caught, one right in front of the back legs, one 3 inches further forward. Neither were suitcased. It seems to me that if the entry side jaws hit them in front of the hips the exit side jaws should have been right behind the head. If the exit side jaws hip caught them the entry side jaws should have caught the tail. Any guesses how this worked?

they back into the trap. Caught several by the tail in belisles.

They just so fast

Likely pulled their head out of the jaws.

If your Bridgers are like the ones I had, it takes a lot of pressure to make them fire. This gives the otter time to be working past the trigger before it fires.

I cross my trigger wires and bend into the "T" shape and set with it on the bottom.
Try rubbing a little wax on the jaw right before you set it. ( but make sure the dog fits the jaw with no slack )
After I started waxing my 330's and using the T bend shape on my triggers my hip catches are almost zero.

I beleave as long as its go'n to the fur shead. Its a good catch.

Otter are fast.They got caught.Congrats

They can weasel their way through a 330 pretty easy. Probably bumped the trigger with their hips.

Yep. Rarely catch by the head neck in a 330. The 280 is a better otter trap, IMO .

This has been my experience when they are caught by the hips and the body is facing the other jaws where they should have been suitcased. Look for the mark on the neck when they are put up.

Either they avoided the trigger or were speeding and got too far thru the trap or they powered their front end out of the jaws.

I have always gotten more consistent head/neck strikes with 280 than a 330. I haven't used any of my 330's since I filed the triggers though. I suspect the 280 will still out perform.

The thought that an otter can get whacked by a 330 and then pull its head out just blows my mind. If I dry land catch one in a foothold
I don't believe I'd feel safe unless I hit it with an 06! I've skinned both of them I'll check for marks when I get home. Thanks for the info.

They can pull their head out if the rest of the trap is being held open by their body . Not if they are just caught by the head though .

As stated above —use 280s

Many times it has to be put up to see the mark. Was pretty common to see in Duke 330s that I started trapping otter in.

Many otter will get out of a 33o entirely if there is a gap between the jaws,(like the old square jaw series 1 victors).
A 330 of any kind is not the best otter trap especially when set on land.

I will take a true magnum 330 in the water every day over any 280. Bigger opening for them to go through, and less for you to block down. With Belisles and Savageaus the catch will generally be sitting the stabalizer or stabalizing sticks in place.

Most places in the states don't allow 280's on land. If legal they are a great land trap and I would take over a 330 when targeting otter.

IMHO a non-magnum 330 should never be used for targeting otter.

330's take otter all right,but 220 is the correct otter trap for a northern trapper.Simple reasons,330's have to be set too far from the ice tunnel where the current is weak when using the millette set,and freeze in.Also gang setting is the way to go with otter,and you can set 2 or even 3 220's with only a couple block sticks between them with the opportunity for multiple catches,instead of a bunch of fencing for one 330(which only gives you a chance at a single catch).

In your specific conditions they may be better, but don't reflect 95% of the trappers on the board.

The trap being held open a little by the rear end makes sense, thanks trapper les. I've ordered some 280's since there seems to be a good population of otter there.