Hi everybody,
I plan on attempting to trap some beaver this spring. While my largest traps are #3 montys for yotes I have almost decided on buying a couple 330's and a couple #4 coilsprings. Chime in for pros and cons or preference on something else. Originally I was thinking 280's, but searching around on here leads me to believe the 330's would be a better choice. We do have otter here, and when the water opens up in March (season goes to the 31st) I would expect them to be traveling some of the same areas. It will be a canal area with side drainage ditches. Culverts under the canal. Beavers have one dammed mostly closed from last fall. Thanks ahead of time.

I prefer CDR's and TS 8.5 for beaver footholds. The bigger traps are more forgiving and these two are easier to set than the MBs and Bridger could. The smaller traps work well, you just have to be a bit more particular about your sets of you'll have a lot of empty traps.

330s do the majority of my beaver work.
Tom

I use Duke #4's, 4 coiled for beaver and have no complaints about them. For coni's I would suggest 330's, especially if your focus is on beaver.

Bridger #3s have a decent jaw spread comparable to Duke square fours. I like the closed jaw Bridger three for beaver work. I have some Victor four longs and they have about same jaw spread too, and they are a classic beaver trap.
Jim

I'm with Sniper on CDR's BUT I like Bridger #5 4-coils just as much.
330's at some sets like runways, crossovers, etc.

i like my 330's but am limited to 2,footholds have always been limited to 6 1/2 in spread max and i have caught piles ob beaver in num 3 coils and num 4 longs.i would use the bigger traps if i could but honestly never felt handicapped by the restriction.

If your 330 must be completely submerged by law, I'd not bother buying many of them. Take the money you saved and upgrade them #4 coils you're think about to MB750's. For a novice beaver trapper, you'll catch more beaver in 6 MB750's than you would in a dozen #4 coils IMO. They make up for a lot mistakes with their superior holding ability.

Never lost a Beav in a 750 and built to last forever. Had some catch’s in 4 coils but missed two last Spring

MB750s

330's-way more setting options for them for beaver.

But it again depends on reg..Having to set the entire trap underwater limits many possibilities.

If the law allows a 330 to be partially above water you can use them for castor sets and runs. With pawholds the placement has to be spot on.. Gotta remember those big back feet. Bigger jaw spreads are a bit more forgiving.

i have mb 750s and bridger dls #5s. Both catch and hold and both can easily be set on your knee by hand. If i had to do it all over again mb 750s all the way. nothing special just regular non laminated jaws. on conibear...i have a pile of 280s. 330s are the much better choice for beaver.

I'd say - use what you're comfortable with - leg holds or coni's. They both have their uses depending on a particular situation.
I just prefer the MB750s but that doesn't mean they're the only game in town.

Thanks guys. We only need to keep the body grippers half submerged. The legs holds I was going to try at feed station type sets or mound sets. I will take a look at the MB 750'S.

Every area is different but where I am nothing is going to have a higher catch % than a properly tuned 330.
( even if it has to be 100% submerged )

have you looked into snares? must keep them half submerged but work well. that being said i wouldnt trade my 330s off. pinch point + 330 equals beaver. keep in mind 7.5 inch jaw spread limit for water sets in illinois. keep your eyes open in the trap shed for some 330s and try a few. good luck

Try snares if you can legally use them. They work well on real or artificial castor mound sets lured with Dobbins B'breaker or Graham's The Boss in my part of the country. This even if you have to partly submerge them to be legal because you can guide
them & hide the snare with a few small sticks or weeds. They also do well at slides and crossovers. Like any other trapping
method, takes a little trial & error to get your technique perfected. I don't normally set very far from my vehicle, but sure is nice
to put everything you need to make several sets in a 2 gal bucket and go. I do use 330's when they are the best tool for a particular set, maybe 10 % of the time. I have caught several hundred beaver over the past 25-30 years using mostly snares. Tried a few
footholds as drowning sets with little success many years ago and decided it wasn't nowhere near worth the trouble and effort it
took. As I've grown older (70 in a few days), I'm sure glad I learned to use snares for beaver a long time ago. Among other benefits,
I'm certain it has added years to my trapping career. Just my opinion, but snares work best for me in most situations. Hope you
have a chance to try them.

If you can only do one, it should be a 330. If you want two styles 330 first and a quality foothold designed for beaver second: 750s, etc. Many good options. Don't try and make a land trap, as in a coyote trap, work for beaver as they really aren't designed for them. Sure you can catch them and hold them, but sooner or later it will cost you lost or educated beaver. If you want to get serious about trapping beaver, all the above mentioned will be part of the "tool box": conibars, footholds, snares...and cage traps (If legal).

When I head out I plan on setting 330s and footholds everywhere I go. The situation and local laws then dictate which end up being set.