I'm new to the forum and to trapping. I caught two coyotes a few weeks back and just now have some time to put out my trapline again. I have a really good location where coyote trails intersect, at least three of them. I caught a big male there in early April. I reset that set where I caught him using a dirt hole set. This one isn't an issue, ground is fairly soft. Then I added a flat set and urine post set in the vicinity. The flat set and urine set are in the edge of a woods road. In both of these sets I could not get an anchor the full depth. My first one was with a Berkshire disposable and about half way down my driver pushed through the hole in the stake. The driver kept going, but not the stake, so I don't think I'm hitting rock. I managed to pull it up by hand (didn't have my stake puller with me...lesson learned). Then I used a super stake. Moved it slightly, but even it I could only get down about 10". I could not get it pulled back out. So I went ahead and set it as I normally would. Same thing with the urine post set. The ground so hard I could only get it half way down. I set it too with half the chain coiled up under the trap. So my question is two fold? Do you think the anchors are strong enough to hold a coyote as is? Or should I pull them when I check them tomorrow and try a different approach in getting them buried. I don't think relocating them is wise since I have urine, bait, etc. at those sets already. Any insight and info would be appreciated.

With a sodbuster hammer I'm surprised they couldn't be driven all the way in.
You could try the 12" earth anchors.
Maybe try some drags or rebar.
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7/8" carbide tipped mason bit with a 20 volt cordless hammer drill. Predrill hole super stakes easy. Go deeper than you think in super hard ground as the anchor may not "bite" for a couple of inches when you pull to set it.

Thanks for the responses. Yep, used the sodbuster hammer and double handed it. Still wouldn't drive. Very hard Georgia clay. I like the idea of predrilling the hole. I had not thought of that.

Welcome to tman. Pull up a chair have fun.

If you can't pull the anchor out it shouldn't be a problem. Did you buy the berks made? I usually try to go at least 14" down, but if the anchor is solid at 10" it should be fine. When my ground is too hard I'll use tie offs/ extension cables tied to something like a tree shrub etc...
others will use drags.


I hate pulling sets until I pull the line. 9/10 times I get activity within a day or 2.

It is fun and addictive. The berkshires were bought ones with 15" cable, coudn't get it past 8-9". The superstake I got about 10" or maybe a little more but I couldn't budge it when I pulled on it. They have 18" of No 2 chain on them so just coiled up the chain up underneath the trap. My first trapline took 7 days for any activity and it was a Possum. Then I caught a yote on the 8th and 9th day, pulled them on the 10th day. I've been waiting for a chance to put them out so I leave them out about 2 weeks or so and this is the first chance I've gotten.

.....10” on a superstake is plenty in hard ground....you’ll have fun getting it out

Predrill hole . It will probably hold the way you have it but if ground gets soft it may not hold.

Glad you're having fun. Yes it's very addictive. Yup I've had the same experience with berks.

Good luck. Have fun and be safe

I mainly use pipe anchors

How does the pipe anchor method work?

It is a half inch pipe, cut at 45°angle on both ends, nut welded on top of pipe at shortest point, 1/8" cable in through the nut, driver has a 45° piece welded on to match pipe, after driving it in you hit the handle of driver to disengage the driver from pipe anchor, only time it might fail is if the nut is sheared off by a rock, real rare

Sounds like perfect location for drags, just pre-hook them so you don't have to look any further than chains length.

HVY duty Berkshires, modified, with the 1/8" hole drilled, as discussed here awhile back is a much better unit.

BUT, when I ran them, I ALWAYS pre-drove a hole with the driver, acting like a pilot hole, before driving the anchor.
Unfortunately, that means driving a hole 2 times per anchor.

More reason to run drags if a local sapling/log is handy to pre-hook.

Re Bar

Why cut them at a 45?

I have trouble with hard ground so as said go with 18 or 24 inch rebar

I made some of those but why cut both ends on a 45. It's a lot easier to have a square edge on one end for the driver. Then I crushed and welded the 45 end shut so It wouldn't fill with dirt when driving It.
The 45 allows for easier penetration.

And why weld a nut on the anchor? Just drill a hole In the anchor shove your cable through the hole so It comes out the end of the anchor. Smash on a nut and pull It back In.
Just make sure you drill your hole far enough down the anchor so the driver won't make contact with the nut.

Not disputing you, just have a question about it.

If you can drive in 2 foot of rebar, why can't you drive your driver in for a pilot hole and the use a disposible?

For me time management drive the bar in and done the anchor hold very but I can't find a driver that holds up if also it can be a little hard to get out I still use anchors but only in soft ground.