in a subdivision on the edge of town, there are a couple of raccoons climbing a plum tree, running around on the roof and crapping in a corner of the yard. I've had three live traps set in the vicinity baited with large marshmallows, coon candy lure and some Trix cereal scattered in and near the traps. Two nights now and they are still running around on the lady's roof. They have an endless food supply with the plums. Any suggestions on getting them into the cages?

use some plums, crushed a bit so the odor travels well, smear/drag crushed plum-making a scent trail to the MOTHER LODE in the cage, suspend the LODE in a cup, so their attn is up there, set them near the plum trees and a couple more cages near the tree they are climbing on the roof with. You can also put 1 or 2 on the roof BUT MAKE SURE to put plywood under them sticking at least 3" out from the cage.
If they are going in her attic, use a bucket/220 set up there. Use a burlap sack with newspaper lining to carry the critter thru the house.

..ps, I used to live in Payette, what county you in?

Raccoon was coming out during daylight hours bothering the workers in the building. The guy they hired had the set location looking like a grain farm with "trailing" sets but no luck. After a lengthy walk through I rolled the dice and pulled a dr dolittle and told the foreman it was entering the hall through this room. Placed a cage off the corner of the locker, a lure stick with a generous glob of lure on it suspended in the rear of the cage. No covered cage or cage flooring. Kept it simple. The following morning he was waiting. Sometimes less is best and 86 all the clever set ups. Strange that your commercial lure isn't attracting them. Hmmm

I'm in Blaine County. Move, not kill attitude around here and I can't risk a non target lethal catch. I added some Dam a Dam beaver/racoon lure to a cage tonight and will see what happens. I might have to do the roof thing if all else fails and put the cages on plywood. 3:4 roof pitch so it should be easy.

Put some molassis and sardines in the cage. I'd be shocked if they resist. It doesn't take much molassis. In another trap, put grape jelly and a tiny bit of annis oil, perhaps with a little bit of corn and sunflower seeds.

wet catfood.

Not your bait most likely. You need to present the trap to them in the right location the right way. I had a coon walking right past my trap 5 feet away last week. for a few nights I moved the trap 5 feet placed the opening towards the direction the coon was coming and it went right in using the same bait and lure. I have been giving cage trap training for 20 years and this one fact is true put the trap right on the coon make it easy to go in the trap and snack or trail the coon into the trap. Good baits and lures are a must for coon BUT it is 90% trapper knowing what to do and 10% baits and lures that get it done. To find out if the coon are trap shy or trap smart, place a marshmallow out front of the trap about a foot and one right on the lip, another one right in front of the pan. if only the one out front is moved or gone then you may have a shy coon if they are gone up to the pan and the ones behind are Left then smart, if nothing is moved or touched your location is off.

I don't see any reason why you cant intercept them on their way up to their entry point. I have to close up a roof tomorrow, shingle and sheathing that this coon tore through. Could easily have set traps on the roof but when you have sign on the ground unless you're running a positive set on the opening, ground trapping is where it's at. I've trapped them on the roof as well but no need for heavy lifting when you have "sign" right in front of you..jmo I personally would start over clean up any scrap bait if any and pin point their route. In your face trapping is key with raccoons who you think are avoiding you. This homeowner called me yesterday flipping out because this raccoon was causing havoc in the ceilings of a tenants bedroom. They've been trying for days to trap it. When I did a walk through I told him the animal is climbing the deck post. He insisted they weren't because he seen a beat down path coming from the wood line to the house. Clearly a path made by kids, I placed a trap roughly 3 feet away from the concrete form and it was waiting this morning for me. Nothing more than little sweet lure and a dab of bait suspended in the rear of the trap.

JMO..You don't need to go to "trapping" school or "instructional classes" to trap raccoon. Money could be spent on better things IMO, and that's not a shot at those who run classes, it's just a fact. If anything the exclusion side of things would be a better investment if you had to pay to learn how to apply applications on structures. You can only trap what is there. Common sense goes a lonnng way in removals. Cat food sardines marshmallows mackerel all that stuff is attractive to animals. But if you can get your hands on pure form baits before they are processed, you will notice a big difference..Either way jmo.




Have to look for those subtle signs.




Fatty fresh bait is much better and imo has more appeal.

IMHO Jonesie and TDHP have it nailed.

I did sardines, marshmallows, molasses, Coon Kandy, peaches, pears, Trix, plums. Bait was in, just in and outside the cages. Had cages set right at the plum tree they were climbing to eat and get on the roof. Caught one young one on the deck by the flower pots they were knocking over. They aren't getting on the roof anymore after I trimmed the tree, but the lady is still seeing them in her yard. Grr. Can't even catch the little ones!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for the info.

I think I got this from Jonesie. If your trap are used take them and power wash them. Some coon will smell the door and not go in.

I'm not a fan of just any bait being placed outside of the cage. Bait can get their interest but that doesn't mean they will eat it. But if you can get them interested to the point where they enter the cage, at that point it doesn't matter if they eat it or not. Raccoons don't pass up much. You need trail cams so you can see what they are doing when they go by the traps or even if they are traveling in that area. As far as washing the traps, any time you"handle an animal in a cage" that's code... after the fact the cage should be at a minimum rinsed. I don't think that is your problem though. I think you should invest in trail cams and use them to your advantage.That is a valuable tool in this field, it will save you time and money. The buffet you are offering to these critters isn't necessary.

I use 2 to 3 baits per cage and 3 lures. I don't know what that coon wants so I give them a choice. but just small lima bean portions. I think the first hour the coon may be hungry the rest of the night they are just being coon. entice them like a fat man in a buffet LOL

I wish I was the one selling you bait then !

lol, on a serious note if you are still after these critters get a cam and see whats going on, you are now wasting time and money.


This is my buffet, and this is a generous portion.

Tell ya what give Bob Noonan and some other well known trappers a call and ask him and them whos bait strategies he is using now. And by the way the reason I came up with that strategy is I sat and watched for hours coon working my cage traps back in the 90's, yes that's right watched the coon. and yes put a camera up and watch the coon work the cage. LT give me a call I can help you LOL

Listen to what Jonesie says.
That is IF you realy want to catch those coon.
What is the % of the bait and lure to the cost of the job?
How many times do you want to come back to that job site?
Or maybe your making your money on Milage.
Jonesie tought me to set for the 20%.We know the 80% come easy.

At our first school (SOUTH JERSEY TRAPPING and SNARING SCHOOL)
Morgan and I were along with our students watching Joneies cage trap class.
After the first 15 minites into the 2 hour class.
We looked at each other with a dumb look.That said it all.
After 30-40 years setting cage traps.
WE HAD NO CLUE HOW TO DO IT RIGHT.

I'll never be too old to learn.

Sir with great and up most respect to all your years of experience, are you saying there is only one way to set a cage trap? Could you elaborate for me, this is interesting. How so? Like cage facing north when it should be facing south or prevailing wind? Bait hung on the left on the 4th row of wire instead of the right? Only using commercial bait and lure by a certain maker? Paying $1500 + to be put up in a ranch and be taught how to carry a cage into an area and set it up? You never stop learning, but you don't need to go to school to trap raccoons. For a few dollars and investing in trail cams and some of your time, you can become very effective in trapping critters. What happens when the foundation you are taught, because that's all that instruction is, fails and you need to adapt on your own? High probability that you will have to invest in cams and figure it out on your own right? That is if you want to become efficient and not have your hand held through every job you get right? SIr I totally get it them 4000 coon a year guys are great they are the best! The folks who take your money aren't going to be there when the animal doesn't do what they taught you how to set up for. I've seen some of the best trappers come up empty on jobs who thought they had it in the bag, animals are unpredictable, I'm not buying only one way. If you would be so kind in giving an example on this topic that would be great because this is "FASCINATING"! I'm filing paperwork so I have time:)

1- SOUTH JERSEY SNARING and TRAPPING SCHOOL is only $400 for 2 1/2 days noon friday 7:00 AM till 9-10:00 PM Saterday and Sunday.

2- I did'nt say my way was the only way to set a cage.
I said Listen to what Jonesis is try to tell you. IT might help.
3- No lure maker was ever given a plug.
4- I also said I'll never be too old to learn.
5- Jonesie is the cage trap man. I never said I have all the answers.