Thought of this idea a few years ago, and been using it exclusively ever since. It's work very well so I decided to share it. Hoping it will help some folks that like the idea of using screen but have struggled. If you already have a system that works for you then by all means keep using it.

For a #3 bridger I use 3/4 inch plywood. Turn your trap upside-down with a flat pan and trace the inside of the jaws. Then cut it out with a jigsaw, width of the blade is all you need for clearance.

Then take your screen and center it on the cutout, then put the bigger piece of plywood over both and hammer down.



This will shape it perfectly to the inside of your trap.


I use rubber bands to keep the screen from bubbling up over your pan and really locks it in place. I think this method could be used on almost any size trap. Hope this helps.


Also the notch in the screen will fit on a dogless bridger and no-bs trap.

That’s a great post. I’ve never seen him he rubber band trick. I will try that for sure

Thicker cardboard is not bad in a pinch I use my meat saw to cut the longer tubes into 6 inch rolls then staple the edges together then layer the screens and cut 6 layers at a time that way.

Thats a great idea. ha, Had a quick question for you. Why do you have 2 nuts welded on the corners of your jaws? Just curious is all.

Thanks for that! Great post and idea.

Turned my regular jaw traps into offset. I know, nutty idea, but it works ,lol.

Do u do anything as far as scent/odor on your screens? I put mine in boiling water. But wondering if I even needed to do that

I just let them air out good before season. The rubber bands however stink of rubber bad, those need to be bought and aired out well before the season starts. You can also add some natural smells to the rubber bands to help eliminate oder, such as dirt, grass, etc.

Ok thanks for sharing. I definitely will give it a try

X2

Hahaha! “Nutty” idea.

The best part about this system beside it works so good is is cheap and easy to make and use.

RP lose the notch and just make a slight hole for the dog notch. And If you make the screen a bit wider so It goes between the jaw and the spring levers I think you can lose the rubber bands.

But If It works for you that's all that counts.

The notch works on 3 different traps. It's easier than to find the right cover for the right trap when your in a hurry. I just fill the hole up on the dogged trap with dirt, its on the dead side of the pan so won't be an issue.

As you can see above, yeah works pretty well. That is what was put up out of 194 caught.

Help me keep this up front for maximum exposure, this is big, really big this could revolutionize the entire trapping world beav.lol

Thanks for sharing rpmartin. Interesting. I am going to make a few using your method.

Thanks for taking the time RP . I like the idea very well, and am going to incorporate it into my line. What an awesome idea, and very simple.

Very nice idea you have. Thanks for sharing it.

Very good idea, I've used metal screen for some time now. But have always just formed it at the set . This will be some thing I'll try for sure . One thing I've found is 31/2 -5 pounds pan tension is a must with the way I do it. And i just cut a slot for the dog with a knife . Not sure if its necessary but I do. I'm also running all older style bridger # 3's regular jaws that I offset with lugs and laminated jaws. 4 coiled to. Very good set up imo.

Oh yea rpmartin, good job on the coyotes in the Chevy. Good put up, look like you have some big coyotes , like western coyotes .

That's brilliant, a cave man like me could do it.

Is there a soft or springy area near the lams on the finished set?
I like to "form" more so the pan shape, and that can be done with the RPM method I'd think.

Looks like that truck ran a few miles this last season.

Thanks everyone, I hope this really helps some of the younger generation and maybe some of us older trappers also.
The screen stays pretty rigid next to the jaws, closer you get to the pan the softer it gets. Just the way you want for a perfect catch.

Same screen on a #3 no-bs



#3 bridger dogless



In a post above beav had brought up the size of the notch for the dog-on traps. He has a valid point as in if you are trapping in wet conditions it would be better to keep your notch as small as possible. Most of my trapping is in texas so not much of an issue for me. Hope this helps.

I remember now you told me about this when we were hunting in Co, I bet a coyote, skunk or coon can't pull the screen off while digging

Rp that picture with fresh caught coyotes on the tail gate looks like it could have been taken a little further west than Wisconsin, lol !

Didn’t notice any red dirt last time I was in Wisconsin either Golf Ball! LOL Screen has always been as hassle for me. I know what I’m doing tonight when I get home, after work!!! This should make the ARCHIVIES with this post rp...

Those nuts will make a space but wont really give you the advantages a true offset gives. With a true offset the jaws close and the space lets the levers come up higher and locks up tighter. With nuts welded the levers come even less than a stock trap

Really a clever idea... I plan on making one.
Thanks for the post

The advantage it gives you is it allows you to the trap in states that require offset jaws. Rather then getting all new traps or passing up on a good deal for regular jaw traps, just weld a couple nuts on the jaws.

Thems texas coyotes, I hate wisconsin winters. Lol

I was right, no red dirt in Wisconsin!!! LOL

Seems like you could make small heating coil, pop a 9v battery in your trap bed, and heat the screen and or trap to keep it from freezing down too.

Probably a $1,000,000 idea that I just gave away. Good luck.

Battery wouldn't last long, I'm figuring

You aren’t using the screens correctly. They should be cut larger than the jaw spread so that the jaws hold them down, and they are pinched between the jars and the spring levers. As beav said, forget cutting that notch... that’s causing a lot of your bubbling problems. Why would anyone want to mess with those rubber bands? Cut the screens the right size, poke the pan notch through and you won’t have any bubbling problems.

Hey Chris I leaned that from you and Scott.

I guess we can't all be screen slayers.

I’m going to use that rubber band idea. I use fiberglass pans coversor wax paper. I think the rubber bands would help with any type of pan cover.

They are cheap fast and effective. Us non-pro's can catch fur too.

Never say never and never say always especially when it comes to trapping.

Thanks for the idea. I am liable to try it, although , I don't use screens yet today.

How big are you cutting your screens for a bridger#3.

I have to agree with Chrism how do those rubber bands hold up in the Sub-Zero weather?

5 1/8" × 7 1/4"

I do like the screen to be under both jaws

I'm sure the rubber band thing works just fine. But give the other method a try then make your choice.

Beav, how are putting your screen on dogless traps?

I'm not. I don't have any dog less traps.

We could debate till the cows come home over the use of rubber bands and the screen on the dogged traps. But ya gotta admit the way the screen is shaped and notched it fits pretty slick on the dogless traps. Right?

Dogless traps and screen are all I use. The only exception is Sterlings because of the locked down loose jaw.

dont use them get a trappers cap

Hey rp, on a Montgomery dogless, you just pop the screen over the little section that rides on the Jaw. Learned this from an O’Gorman video back in the early 80’s. Work it a little and it’s ready to go. Works pretty Slick !!

I dont use screens but your post is great! Good coyote catch too.

Good deal, never used a monty. Like I said in my 1st post if you have a good system and are happy with it then by all means keep using it. This is just another option if you are looking to up your game and skin more coyotes. Yes I am a little biased. Actually hoping it doesn't catch on too much , I don't want the coyote market to get flooded. Lol

Rpmartin and others that use steel screen covers, about how much of a percentage in catches have you had and have you noticed any increase in misses or pullouts.

I use screen as well ,I like pan tension it works for me if use screen you will want to use some anyways if like your fingers ,,, I like mine.lol
But to answer your question speaking only for me maybe one toe catch a year cats or coyotes.

I feel it has helped cut down on misses, but with that said I believe subtle blocking and type of set has more to do with misses than the pan cover.
When you ask about pullouts I'm assuming you are asking if the screen helps in making a better deeper catch. I think it helps some but again like red Mt said I believe pan tension has more to do with good consistent catches . If you try the screen remember it will ad a little pan tension to your setup. Hope that helps

Actually rp, I as wondering if the screen causes less deeper pad catches since I assume the trap will go off if the coyote steps on the screen on the edge of the trap without necessary stepping on the pan itself. Also, with the screen, have you noticed any increases in catches since again I assume it is a bigger kill area.

Grandpa not I have seen most of them caught pad catches but try a few and see 4lbs of pan tension results in good solid catches for me.

There is a thread on page one called making offsets, those pics are all mine with the screen. That's what 99% of catches will look like. It works

No, you get a lot of way deep catches with 3 lbs pan tension and steel screen, #3 Bridger, someone are so high I can't see how they did it
Toe catches are very rare, I found out , experienced that 25 years ago or more

Well I have to give it a try. For my favorite coyote trap, the #3 Victor Montgomery, I used 7/16’s plywood instead of the 3/4. I pounded out 4 dozen pan covers today using Marty Smith’s stiff screen cover. They are a perfect fit and lays nice and flat. With the stiff cover I use to have a problem with the loose jaw side, but not no more. Thanks for sharing your idea rpmartin.

Good job, looks good.

Trapperjdb looks nice! Have the same trap, what was your starting length and width?

That length and using 7/16 plywood seemed to work the best. There is just enough screen to go under the jaws to hold it down. Also when I hammered the form on I would also hit in the center of the screen, it created the screen to slightly bow downward, making it fit tight against the pan. Also I cut the corners off.

Thank you! I'm liking this post!!!

I hope it works as good for everyone as it does for me. Only bad thing is waiting till next season to use them.

I bet a skunk, coon or coyote can't pull a screen like that out

If you have a coyote digging at your trap, you have other issues as in trap is not bedded properly. Coon will mess with them sometimes only because they like digging in fresh dirt and will find them

That screen does look a little stiffer than what I use but should work just fine. It will add a little more pan tension is all.

The coon dig I think because of loose dirt, skunks the loose dirt or they know there is a hollow spot under the pan,
I think coyotess dig because of past experience with poorly made sets of inexperienced trappers, my traps are bedded pretty solid, I use handle of my scratching tool to pack the coal shale good under jaws and spring levers
The black screen is stiffer, I prefer the galvanized, but have a bunch of black to use up

Hey this contraption will let me post pics again. Cool







Thanks again RP great idea!!!!

Glad to help yotegiter. I've learned a ton of things off this site so this was a good way to make a small contribution back to the trapping community.

With permission from OP
This is for exposed cat set enthusiasts I use this because I still CAN
bury some traps if there is some coyotes around
I just wrap duct tape all the way around a piece of screen. It stiffens up the screen a bit more is all that needed.

While I'm not a big fan of screens-RP-you have an excellent idea for making them-might even try a few. Thanks

Red mt, that is a good idea. Thanks for sharing. If anyone else wants to any tips or tricks on using screen feel free to post up

Can these screens be reused after a catch or are they usually too tore up?

Normally they are chewed far beyond being used again.

Oh cats is usually not bad and can reuse.
Coyotes if you get a tooth hole it would be wise save the old one boil with traps use the next year. Or at least I do.

I've never used a rubber band, I can't imagine why you would need that !

When you place a wire screen inside the jaws, all you need to do is with one hand, reach beneath the pan and hold it up, while with the other hand, take your finger tips and press downward all around the pan. This only takes 5 seconds.
THIS is what forms it !

It will flat as a pancake, while still allowing the stiff screen to perform as a kill area.
Steel screen is the stiffest , yet rust after time.
I use heavy aluminum . It doesn't !

Like I said several times already if you have a system that your happy with and it works for you then keep at it. I thought part of being a good trapper is keeping an open mind to new ideas.

I agree. I know I am indebted to you for sharing your secret. I use to screw around trying to form the screen to fit under the loose jaw, so it wouldn’t fire the trap when lowering it. Now I have around 4 dozen steel screen covers already preformed and ready to go. Just need to get more of Keg Creek screen wire to make more. Thank you again.

Going to pick up 8ooft. of screen on Thurs. of this next week.Real stiff screen is easy to work with . I only recommend using this screen with no. 3 size trap and larger and the No Bs jrs and extremes.

Your welcome trapperjdb, hope it works as good for you as it has for me. If you have any questions on its use when season rolls around again shoot me a PM, I will be glad to help. Good luck

I agree with what someone else said, this should be archived. Great post!

Two layers of window screen stapled together on three sides of the pan. It can be slide on and off, fits sort of tight. Works for me, I made them in the off season but can only use them once so make a lot before hand.......jk

X2

Great post RP, thanks! Have been looking for a better solution to waxed paper for my wolf traps. That looks like it would be the ticket to keep things going in freeze/thaw better. You ever tried waxing the screen? Could see it helping with snow sets.

I always wax my screen covers. Just makes things easier and not worrying about contamination.

I haven't waxed any myself but have heard of others doing it. I have trapped in a couple areas that had very fine sand and wished I had a few waxed screens in those instances. I think it would be a great idea in your situation, thanks for bringing it up.

Forgive my rookie question here, but what exactly is the purpose of the screen cover? Is it to keep the dirt from piling up around the working components of the trap? Or is it there for bigger pan coverage, meaning the animal hits the screen and therefor trips the pan? Both?

A person has to have a way of keeping dirt and debris from keeping your pan from dropping far enough to fire. There are various ways to do this. Some put stuff under the pan and some put it over the pan.

In my opinion ths screen is superior due to the way the screen is shaped with it being straight up and down next to the jaws gives it more rigidity. So with rigidity and some pan tension helps keep the trap from firing until the animal's paw is inside the jaws of the trap far enough to make a good solid catch. This eliminates almost all toe catches, almost. Nothing is 100%. You might want to read this paragraph again, it's pretty important.

Also I like the way the screen fills the gap between the pan and the jaws as most people do not pack the dirt in this area. This way there is no soft spot that can tip a paranoid predator off. Hope this helps.

RP my pan sits lower than the jaws and 3/4 is a pretty good gap between the pan and bottom of jaws.Be anything wrong with using say 1/2 inch plywood and make the screen thinner so it will be tighter to the pan ?

No, nothing wrong at all. Depending on size of trap and distance from pan to under the jaws will differ from 3/4 to 5/8 to 1/2 inch. The reason I use 3/4 is because it works on the different #3s I have.

Thank you very much. Great idea !!!!

Ttt

Nice post rp. TMan is all about sharing and novel ideas. I'm a poly guy myself, but if I was gonna use screen, I'd try your method.

Thanks Mark, always nice to have options. We trappers are a diverse group and trap in so many different conditions and soil types there are about as many different ways of doing things on the trap line as there are trappers doing it. Not sure if anyone even used this method but thought i would throw out another way. All i know is it works good for me where i trap.

I have one Major problem with this method. Why couldn't this have been posted at the beginning of the virus when there was nothing to do but home bound projects ? This looks like a fantastic setup for guys like me with 2 left hands and all thumbs. Always had problems with screen but am going to use this setup real soon.

Talk about over analysed! Everyone's got engineering genes somewhere in their DNA and when the right subject surfaces---- they ERUPT LOL.

rpmartin
Thanks for sharing. Very good idea. Amazing catches too.

This is probably a dumb question, but I am brave.
How small of a trap do you think you can use and still use a screen pan cover?
Like I use # 2 Bridgers and MB550s.

Thanks again for sharing.
Mac

Very interesting concept. I still use coffee filters as a pan cover.

Absolutely the correct way to use wire screen pan covers! And I learned that 43 years ago from Craig O’Gorman. Thanks Craig!

I’ve used window screen on 1 1/2 coils.

This is my way



I make them for my #2 and 1.75 bridgers
I just do a little forming with my fingers after they are pressed
I also put a hinge on my jig and fastened the center piece
I just live to tinker

Mac, yes the screen will work fine on a # 2 sized trap. Not sure about a trap smaller than that but with the way i shape mine with the rigidity of the screen next to the jaws and having the correct pan tension i think you should be good to go. I would try a few first to see how they work. Imo the smaller the trap you use the better at guiding you need to be, but sometimes in certain situations it's the only alternative.
Hope that helps a little, good luck.

Looks good wetdog that will work.
All of my ideas are expanded off someone else's idea.

Thank you RP for the very interesting and informational post.

Nice post. Its refreshing to see actual trapping content on this forum.

Agreed

Ttt

I overlapped soft screen 1/2" over trap side jaws for years then used a tinny bit of dirt to keep wind from blowing it off.

Interesting, do you happen to have pictures of your setup? Thanks

A person has to have a way of keeping dirt and debris from keeping your pan from dropping far enough to fire. There are various ways to do this. Some put stuff under the pan and some put it over the pan.

In my opinion ths screen is superior due to the way the screen is shaped with it being straight up and down next to the jaws gives it more rigidity. So with rigidity and some pan tension helps keep the trap from firing until the animal's paw is inside the jaws of the trap far enough to make a good solid catch. This eliminates almost all toe catches, almost. Nothing is 100%. You might want to read this paragraph again, it's pretty important.

Also I like the way the screen fills the gap between the pan and the jaws as most people do not pack the dirt in this area. This way there is no soft spot that can tip a paranoid predator off. Hope this helps.

I seldom come on here but this screen thing bugs me. A no. 4 to no .2 size trap screen works best any smaller size trap it will not work the best. Must have plenty of pan tension 6x6 piece will fit no. 4 -3 size trap. Just cut a spot for trap notch an slide it on. If square jaw trap leave corners square and round jaw trim corners. Lays flat every time the floppy screen well good luck. Would not set a trap with out it and sell the heaviest screen out there. Trapped five different states with it results all the same perfect catches.

I bet the digger coyote cant remove the screen

Have you tried galvanized screen instead of black?

Ttt

Ttt

great post RP this will make the Archives. Let's let it ride a bit first. Any thing new always brings out the I like the old way.....lol you covered that a few times with "if you have a method you like keep using it...." will follow this one for a while then Archive it.

I don't understand why that someone that doesn't come on here very much, just can't stand it any longer and has to come here to disparage a different way of doing something they haven't even tried.

My way is easy and cheap to shape the screen. Just takes a scrap piece of plywood and a jigsaw.

If you are mainly using low pan dogless traps the shaped screen is probably not necessary. But if you have high pan dog on traps i feel the shaped screen covers will help a new trapper or anyone that would like to see if it works for them.

I feel it really works nice on Zagger's pipe dream set, because the screen sets perfectly flat over the top of the trap but it is still locked in and cannot move or flip up if the animal steps on the edge.

People use a lot of different ways to cover their pan or use various stuff under their pan, so what's the big deal on a little different way to do something. We should be trying to work together on this instead of tearing each other down!!! Marty, i think your screen would work great shaped my way and locked down for some trappers out there. Also i think your bait is some of the best I've ever used. Thanks

RP don't let the nay sayers get to you there just mad because they didn't think of it first ! But you probably caused a scrap plywood shortage because of this good idea of your's . Ha ha

I normally will set snares for coyotes and bobcats but if I go back to setting traps again I'll definitely be giving your idea a try .
Keep up the good work !
Allan