I want to make a souped up batch of urine. My own personal "Pro-Mix". I have a few jars of frozen glands from both fox, and coyote. Maybe 16 oz total, after being chopped up. Couple questions.

1) How should I prepare the glands...chopped up, or ground?

2) Should I taint, rot, or use the glands fresh?

3) If used fresh, how long should they soak in the urine before it'd be ready to use?

4) What percentage of glands to urine would be about right?

If you guys can give me any suggestions, I'd appreciate it. Thanks!

Grind the glands. I taint mine for three days then stop with S.B. and add gly. Add about 1/4 gly to amount of glands
I like mine to age for as long as I can leave them. At least 2 weeks 2 months is better. A year is better yet
You can use at 2 weeks and have a good product. I like 4oz of glands to a pint of urine.Let age for a week or two then I strain the urine and put the glands back in the jar
Hope this helps

Great stuff. Thanks for sharing Wayne

Thanks Wayne! Yes, it does help. That's exactly what I was looking for.

Out of curiosity Wayne would it end up hurting if the glands was left in the urine? I know fox hollow leaves a significant amount of gland material in there mag pee, Before tim when bob still owned it . But after a few years it takes on a complete different smell more glandular then urine. but honestly I don't know if that's good or bad! I never seen a animal response that proved either way. I have a few gallons of mag pee that's coming to the 6 year mark

I like to thoroughly rot my glands until they are almost liquid.

The amount you add to the urine depends on how much urine you use at a set. I like about 2 oz glands and 2 oz glycerine per 12 oz urine.

It doesn't matter if you leave the glands in. I like a squrit and go
Rotted down glands are great in it also. Matter of choice.
The older it gets there is a more gland odor.
Sometime I like mine with a sharp urine smell
Sometime the older gland smell
Depends on what I see the coyote reaction

I’ve noticed the same thing Wayne. The longer it ages the stronger the gland odor.

Here’s a gallon of good stuff. Red fox glands broken down to liquid aging in good meat fed winter fox urine I collected myself.

I got some glands at that stage but the only urine I have on hand is waynes single male yote I hate to risk messing up a already great attractant! Man I wish I could collect my own urine! Miserys laws are stupid on that subject! Its legal if you use tame yotes lol isn't that a oxy moron? or have obedience school certifications! Never knew obedience school was a guarantee you could trust a animal

Wayne, what do you prefer for spiked bobcat urine? Rotted, fresh, both?

I don't thank Fresh has much smell
I taint mine for about three days. Kind of release the smell
I call that fresh But I want fresh tainted in mine
don't forget the gly. It helps brake down the gland smell
Coon Duke that looks good
Tony any good urine works good with the glands

From my testing with trail cams rotted and aged provokes a much more intense reaction with red fox when compared to fresh.

Wayne, that gallon has glycerine in it but I didn’t know it helped create that classic aged gland odor. I always add glycerine so never gave it a thought. Thanks for the info.

Just call me lazy. For more years than I care to mention, I've been adding an oz of gland lure to a pint of urine. I mostly use fox GL & U. If I don't catch a coyote/fox in a set and have a hard rain I give the set a squirt. Same with any set that hasn't caught anything after 4 or 5 days. Works for me & I don't have to mess with AHoles. Mr. Jepsen did show me how to collect coyote glands maybe I should start saving them. What are they worth per coyote or fox?

I like to spike cat pee. add in 2-3 anals and that fat that's under the skin there to a jar of it. I just put them in right fresh from the cat. will have to try waiting a few days.

With the price of fox right now, the glands may be worth more than the pelt.

When cutting the vent try to trim away as much fur as possible. Fur is a notorious clogger of nozzles.

If you let those anal glands M/F sit out at room temperature a few days just enough to sour a bit the hair will slip right off clean as a whistle. Be careful to guard against the flies as they will find them surely. Bag your container or bucket to protect them in this stage. I use a commercial fly killer the kills them fast.

I spray it around the bucket lid rim and bucket rim.I keep an eye on them as they begin to develop the bacteria you will know when they are ready to clean. They come out looking like cute little mini donuts. It works on male and female parts. The ovum needs trimmed a little at times on the females but the vents usually pull hair easily.

Do you guys see a problem with mixing the fox and coyote glands into the urine, or should I keep them separate? I will be using fox urine as the carrier.

let’s look at this another way. Glands alone attract a certain number of responses. Urine alone, does too. Combined, however, yields a number of chemical combinations that seem to have more draw to more customers. We smell glands and urine. Canines smell these plus the combination chemicals and it is the combination compounds that seem to be having the greater impact.

I suspect you could soak fox, or coyote, or ‘cat, or otter, or beaver, or muskrat (and so on) glands in fox, coyote, dog or any sort of cat urine and you’d get fur bearer response. (It might not be the response we want, but it will be a response.). Bob Jameson, Mark June, Russ Carmen, Craig O’Gorman and countless other lure makers have done this. Their catalogs contain the ones that worked the way they wanted them to.

Think of it in terms of horse radish and ketchup and shrimp. Some people will put ketchup on shrimp. Few put horse radish (straight) on shrimp. But combined, they make a tangy cocktail sauce that a lot of people put on shrimp and other types of seafood.

That is fine as far as animal attraction is concerned. If you plan to rot them keep in mind that coyote glands with a lot of fat do not break down the same as fox glands.

I been watching post. Could a person used like caven gland lure put a little in some urine? I am new to this.

You can Bobcat trapper.
I don't know what is in it but should be fine

Wayne, I like your way better...fresh (slightly tainted) in the urine for a few weeks, then use. And, recycle the glands. That's the way I'm rollin'.

If all this info cant help a beginner they need to read it several times! Alot of hidden info in this if a guy thinks creatively. Coon duke is spot on about glands breaking down differently. My fox glands will break down to a watery sludge in half the time my yote glands will. Cats are in between both but I prefer my cat glands to still have some solids left in them.

I'm betting that stuff will get you some fur. Looks good.

OK, I gotta ask . . . what's the rubber band for?

This is interesting. My red fox glands take about 3 years to break down, but they're not a watery sludge, they're a paste about the consistency of pudding. My cat glands only take about 1 year to break down good. I wonder what the difference is. Mine are in a climate controlled environment, and I wonder if that may be the difference?

On the other side of the jug there is a piece of paper with the ratios written on.

That's the side we wanted to see Lol

That might be the difference paul my shed is the same temp as out side till winter then it really fluctuates only thing I safeguard my glands from is direct sunlight

The amount of urine added to any aging gland batch dictates the degree of consistency as does extended heat exposure of the glands contributes to the speed of the decomp/breakdown. Also the size of your grinding plate greatly contributes to the finished product consistency and its speed in breaking down.

Extended aging of glands greatly changes the final odor and responses as a stand alone or in a formula. You need to establish how each aging system best suits your needs and desired results.

It is much easier to work with glands when they are fresh then after they have age on them. Then you are talking about using a food processer of sorts to further the glands consistency and their degree of emulsification. This process can be messy and much more clean up of equipment.

Also what you may have added to your glands, or how well they were cleaned, how much tissue/filler, fat content, hair, feces content etc. A small amount of urine added in the beginning stage will help jump start and encourage the age time. If it still needs help a bit more can be added for your needs and the desired end result.

Outdoor aging with periods of intense heat changes all things as well as the final odor. It gives much faster breakdown but also a significantly different odor. Lots of variables in aging need consideration to keep things as you want them to be.

We age indoors for a large percent of our gland prep so it takes a longer for materials and bases to go thru the process that we need to keep product consistency as good as can be along with retaining the animals true natural odor..

Further accelerated breakdown like you see in Coon Dukes liquid gland has its place in formulation as we use some total liquefied glands in some formulas. That type of process is very good for certain formulations to get a specific consistent response from predators.

I can see he uses the gum band to measure the breakdown separation between the urine the gland solids. Anyone can see that .

I sure appreciate the help, guys. I have the ball rolling...

Let me get this straight...

1) Grind, taint for 3 days, stop with SB.

2) Age the stopped glands for 2 weeks...to a year. Or, anything in between.

3) THEN add the aged glands to the urine, and let mix for at least 2 weeks.

Is that the correct procedure and timeline?

I'm ready to start chopping up glands, just want to make sure I understand. I was previously interpreting it to chop the glands, and after 3 days...add to the urine and let sit all year. But, it's the GLANDS you want to sit for a long time before I add them to the urine. And that only has to sit for a couple weeks...Right?

yes al that's how I interpret it

Good posts here intended to assist those who want to make their own secret sauce or understand a bit better what they're using that's made by others.

Bob has some very good straight forward information about temperature ranges and processes!
Having been in business in three different states that have VASTLY different temperatures throughout the seasons (Michigan, Nebraska, and now Texas) we've had to work with all the temperatures this nation has to offer. For example, when you live in a hotter climate (and south Texas is HOT) glands and meats must be worked with quickly. Even in the moderate temperatures we keep our "stinky room" at, fresh glands that are fine ground and allowed to sit a while before/in formation get.... thinner. No way around it other than to use thickeners.

So when I read that certain lures are thicker or thinner, that has very little bearing on attraction. Perhaps on application, but not on attraction.
If you live in a cooler northern climate taking your time in the stink shed is ok, but in the warmer, more humid/high dew point regions, you better work all day long to get stuff ground and preserved and set up cause ma nature never rests.

I have had the privilege to work with other lure manufacturers since the 80's when I started and there are a few thing you must do when testing attractants.
1. Test in various zones of the country if you plan to sell commercially to those zones.
2. Tests must be conducted in preferred locations of animal travel. Believe it or not, most "newer" lure makers don't do this one. Since time is money and good trap locations deserve the best smells in the bag oftentimes, "tested" lures are relegated to "other- let's see how this works locations" and that results in bias of the attractants. The oldie but goodie will always outproduce because it's used in the best spots. YOU MUST USE NEW SMELLS DURING TESTS IN THE BEST SPOTS ALSO! Tough to do, but critical to testing reliability.
3. Test results must have a large "n" or research number.... how many placements. Larger the n, the more reliable the results.

I would personally love to see a new influx of lure makers in an industry that has very few tenured makers anymore. Gone are many we used to know.
Ingredients are harder to get and very pricey because of it. Glands are tougher to acquire because fewer trappers trap/skin.
But I hope new blood catches the bug and dives in. Water's fine.

Blessings
Mark

Derrick. Do you mean glycol when you say gly? Or glycerine?

glycerine is generally the best choice when working glands in my experience. Some may prefer another choice.

I have 16 oz fox glands going into 1/2 gal fox urine, and 16 oz coyote glands going into 1/2 gal coyote urine. My glands have tainted long enough. I'm ready to age them before adding to urine. Can't remember the proportions of base to SB to fix it???

How much SB per 16 oz of glands to fix them, so I can age them before adding to urine? Thanks.

I would add 1 oz per pint.