I probably made my first ones like that 10 years ago.
Still using them.
Got anything to say about that?
just

Sure If It worked for you that's great. But we all know It's better to have It welded on. Right?

That's right.
FWIW I own a mig and stick welder.
The guy is apparently new to trapping or he would have made Tbar stakes already. The pounding the nut on a is simple and effective way to make rebar stakes. It works is tuff and cheaper than any other stake except maybe wood Y stakes.
It don't have to cost an arm and leg to trap.
KISS.
just

He could just screw the brass nut down on the re bar then drill a hole all the way through both and put a roll pin in it. No heat or welding required.or you could Eaven use a nail if didn't want to go get roll pins. Just flatten the ends with a hammer after you get it through

Hey Ark
Maybe drill 2 holes for keys and put a washer in between.
It would probably be a pain drilling . Especially without a drill press.
Also broken bits.
just

The cable clamp Is even easier. No pounding no drilling no welding no nuts.

I bet they work good. Was just throwing that out there to try and help a little. All mine are welded. That's what I do for a living. Se you boys got some redneck in ya. A redneck will allways find a way to make something work with what he has lol.

Yeah $6.50 each for 1/2" at ebay.
just

Almost all my stakes are 1/2 rebar with a 5/8 nut smashed on it .after you drive it the first time the top of the rebar is swelled and the nut cant come off . I cant think of any reason why welding would be any better or worse . Just another process .

I found them on line for $2.69. I'm betting I can get them cheaper and Menrards.

Still too much for a trap stake
Yes they are cheaper at Menards.
BTW a hex nut is 53 cents at Menards but much cheaper by the pound at a farm store.
btwx2 $2.69X6 =$16.14. Cumberlands sells 1/2" T stakes 6 for $9.00
just

I'm only throwing out Ideas for those who CAN'T weld or just don't have the skills or tools to make them the tried and true ways.

I'm telling them that a nut hammered on rerod works and is cheap.
just

nyhuntfish Is have problems with that system I'm giving him the easy way out.

What is a cable clamp? Thanks.

It worked!!!

Thank you for your advice.

Question.... Do you smash it on all sides or just one? It seems like if I smashed it on all sides (because after smashing on one side it leaves air space on the other two sides) it might loosen up but maybe not.

I put the brass nuts on the rebar, put the rebar in a regular fire (not a forge), waited for 10-15 minutes, took it out and banged on it with a sledge hammer onto a railroad steel plate I had sitting on a log (although as you mentioned I'm sure a trap hammer would have worked as well). It took a few bangs but it worked. I also think drilling out the threads (which I did on some but not all) worked better since I made more room for it to crush.

Update: Note: The nuts won't necessarily look "red hot" but they will be. Take them into a dark room and you'll see them glowing red but the brass (or whatever coating is on them) I think shields that possibly. About 10-15 minutes in the fire you can bang on them. Use vice grips to position the nut, wear safety glasses, and hold on to the bottom of the rebar as it should be cool but wear gloves in case it bounces up or you trip (also why to wear goggles).

A couple of the nuts are still loose after smashing which is why I asked if I should smash on all sides of that could loosen it up? I'll try more this weekend to tighten it up.

Thank you for all your help everyone and The Beav!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Good for you. Keep on keeping on.

Just one side Or maybe flip it over.
I'm thinking several sides would loosen it.
.
Try it again with steel nuts. You'll have to hit it several times.

I still feel that a larger nut is better. the threads grip the rerod.
just

What do you all think? Do you think they'll work?

30" long, 1/2" thick rebar, two fender washers on top (2" diameter), and ranger bands (aka cut-up bicycle tires made into rubber bands) on the bottom.