Hi Tim, I am looking forward to the lynx season here as well. I use a lot of the 4 coiled #4 Dukes just for the fact of the lower expense. It doesn't take much to hold a lynx, they are not chewing animals and I have never had a trap disfigured from a lynx. I also use a fair number of #5 Bridger's for the jaw spread, that size of trap is not needed for holding power, but allow a much more "open" set where paw placement is less critical. That is the best tip I can give you for this area, Kenai lynx do not respond to fencing. Initially I tried the set type you will see in the interior or the YK delta that has lots of fencing and a square of branches around the trap for stepping sticks, and this has caught thousands of lynx in those areas, but here I got 100% refusals. As open as possible with barely noticeable stepping sticks was what I found works for me. Good Luck.

Bridger #3 for me. You don't need a lot of power to hold a lynx, but most of mine are 4 coiled for speed and laminated to be a bit easier on the critter. I night latch them and they are super fast. They are about the perfect size for cats. I've tried the 650, in my opinion they are a little more finicky due to the tiny amount of space under the frame/pan. They seem to freeze down and fail to fire more than the Bridger.

Bridger #3 four coiled seems to be the most popular trap out here for lynx, but are not to be expected to hold a wolverine long unless heavily modified. I may try the SVS #4 soon, or K9 Extremes.

We don’t get many lynx down this way, but... I have taken two in wolverine cubbies. The one foothold that has proven up to the task for lynx AND wolf and wolverine has been the No BS K9 Extreme. Zero damage to caught animals or the trap.
They are a bit pricey, but I invested one time and cannot imagine anything, aside from bear, damaging them in a catch.

I like the duke #3 for leg holds, snare cubbies with snares. I have started with #2s when I first started targeting them, started using #3s since we have wolverines here

If lynx were the only target a #4 longspring but,,, there's always the chance for a wolverine so I tend to go heavier! Sterling 600's,Newhouse#4's and 14 jumps hooked solid or big drags. For a couple of years a litter of wolves were hitting cubbies,, we caught most or they wised up.

I liked the 650s. Very strong and no room to chew on the foot under the jaws. Wolverine are chewers. Doubtful you'll find a frozen lynx in a snare down on the Kenai. Too warm. Might find a dead one with a green belly. If there's food in the stomach it will sour quickly after death. Might try cable restraints.

Thanks for all the replies. The overall pattern seems to be either #3 or #4, and then brand depending on preference.
I love to snare - but living here on the KP, I know about the warm temps. The last thing I want to see is a cat with green belly, or a cat that has been cannibalized.
It makes sense to me to catch them in a foothold, and keep them alive.
Traps are expensive! But I'm going to have to work hard on investing in a bunch of leg holds. I do enjoy trying different things, and coming up with my own preference.
Keeping my eyes open for used traps, but nothing really in my wheelhouse so far.
So will likely wind up buying as much as I can possibly afford. Get some variety.

yesterday I got a chance to scout some new turf in the afternoon from ATV. Some old logging roads.
Lots of scattered spruce and cottonwood/birch. Some alders, willow, and blueberry bush mixed in. But when you look at it, what you really see is lots of tall grass and fireweed.
I wonder about this habitat being good for rabbits and lynx? I really look forward to seeing tracks in the snow.

What do you guys find for good lynx and rabbit habitat?
It seems that where I live, I either have the mature rainforest across the bay and in the very mountainous areas, or, the foothills, which are tall grass/scattered spruce.
Generally speaking, the riverine areas look the best to me.

There sure was a lot of spruce grouse yesterday. I got a limit with my bird dog - no problem. It's what's for dinner.

I seem to have my best luck in drainages, especially those that go through thick spruce. Find the bunnies and you'll find the kitties I got a dozen of those Dukes you can borrow, hit me up next time your up in Anchorage.

I was going to say, where you find pockets of bunnies and grouse should give you starting points. I also find their tracks, although infrequent, at beaver dams and on huts, both active and inactive. Crossing points to hunt and vantage points, I figure.

I’ll second beaver dams/huts. Wolverine check those too.

Where I am 20 to 40 year regrowth after a forest fire or clearcut is core lynx habitat.But when they are at the peak of their cycle they are everywhere.

Little to no beav in my area. I have yet to see a beaver hut or dam south of Soldotna.
I wish they were here! I really enjoy trapping beaver and could use the bait, and the habitat they create.

This area I am looking at appears to have been clearcut. I would say the spruce were either left behind, or yeah - they are 20+ years old, but they are not thick. They are very scattered with some clumps here and there. Mixed in cottonwood and aspen that appear stunted. Lots of mature birch in there. I will attach some pictures to show you what I'm talking about.

Remember that the grassy areas should be snowy fields when Lynx season rolls around. As long as there are some decent clumps of trees to hold some hares or grouse that actually works to your advantage because it will concentrate their movements. As long as its not to isolated where they would feel to exposed getting to it, its tougher when you have a long stretch of featureless timber. No way to guess where they might move through and their nose is poor enough by animal standards they have to be pretty close to scent your set. Visual attractors work great in those more open areas too, it will pull them in better than a scent at distances. Get out when there is some snow to look for sign and find the thickets they frequent. In a more open country they will visit those thickets frequently because there are less choices to look for prey. Just my opinion FWIW. On another note I have never had a lynx cannibalized in a snare or 330, granted I have only caught 10 or so by those methods, but I think its related to the abundance of prey when we have our seasons. Also the reason in my opinion we have so many walk by's on the Kenai. Its tough to get their attention and make them commit when their belly is full. So I wouldn't be afraid of snares I use them to some degree, just cant find good places for them in my area, not many good trails. You just have to run your line more frequently to avoid the green belly issue. Feel free to call if you have other questions.

My favorite leg hold for cats is the scissor lock around their rib cage. With this hold you can also pin their front legs to their chest while you slip the paper bag over their head from behind. They never see it coming until it's lights out !!

An MB 550 held this guy, at least for a while. https://youtu.be/lLNnxccBpy0

For Lynx I use just about any foothold trap with a 6"-7" jaw spread.
I try to always hook them to something solid in case a Wolverine gets into them.