I mainly use BMI 160's for rats with the standard V trigger placement. I like the size of the 160 for covering runs but I do get occasional misses and believe some rats make it though all together without firing the trap.

Anyone with experience running circle triggers on 160's for rats? Did it improve your catch rate? Otherwise, I was considering making my own trigger wires in the 'dinner bell' shape that is used on the BMI 110.

You sure it's rats? I don't think I hardly ever miss any in the Duke 160's, but I get some sprung by beaver and otter. I have used wires across the triggers on some, they just collect more debris. If it's a big problem, you could put 220 triggers on them.

Positive it's rats. Several years ago, I had three 160's in the same run. I saw a rat make it though the first two traps without firing them and finally get caught in the third.

A 220 Circle trigger will work on a 160

Yes I use them.

Set your traps with the trigger on the bottom. I set all my bodygrips that way. You would be surprised how many mink and rats you can catch even in the largest size traps with the trigger pointed up from the bottom. Trigger down from the top can hit their sensitive nose and have the animal shy away, whereas trigger up from the bottom hits the chest or gets kicked by the feet, either way a catch. Try it, you will see I am right. Eric

I bent 200 Duke single spring #160 trigger wires into a
near circle configuration about 4 years ago after
experiencing excellent results with 220 & 330
circle trigger configurations.

They definitely drastically improved my catch
percentage to near 100% of fired traps.

walleyed

I have no experience with BMI traps, but with Duke 160's, the trigger was horrid and would swing 30-40 degrees before they'd go off, allowing rats to pass thru without setting it off. After tuning them, catch went way up.

Your on the right track with putting a better formed trigger on, mainly because if rats are going then it, mink are too with ease.
I'm sold on Bridger 150 magnumsfor rats and mink, with little to no need to fiddle with them.

If the trap Is under water then the trigger being on top or bottom Is a mote point The rat Isn't going to put on the brakes when it's nose hits the wires.
But to further argue the trigger position If the trigger Is on top and the wires are pointing down and If you turn the trap over the trigger wires are still going to be In the same position sticking straight up. And In both cases the rat Is going to hit those wires with It's nose. Now If you shorten the wires the rat may go over the wires or It may go under the wires then It would either hit It's back or hit It's belly depending on how It entered the trap. Or you may miss It completely.

So I guess If you form a V and center that V In the center of the trap opening the whole trigger arrangement Is a mote point.

My triggers are always on top or on a side. My traps are too sensitive to have them on the bottom.

I've gone to circle triggers for most of my body traps. They help every size trap. Here's a 220 that caught a mink with one and the remake on a slide where I was hoping for an otter. I get rats in 330 sized traps now too like this one by the tail in this Belisle. They center the animal in the trap and usually lead to a better catch.




I use coat hanger wires to make the circle triggers thanks to my buddy who showed me.

My triggers are on the side most of the time.. I did notice I had some misses with the Bridger single springs. They are bigger than the Dukes. But I catch even female mink in Duke 160s underwater. Some need a little tuning, most don't.

I agree with trigger up on 330s. It just makes sense for animals traveling right on the bottom.

Maybe on dry land but I think It's mote point In the water.
I would rather spread my trigger wires and hang a piece of monofilament or a light wire between them then to use a circle trigger. The light wire or monofilament Is just about invisible under the right conditions.

I use conis under ice for rats, a lot, and anything extra on the trigger I feel is just excess b.s., I put the dog on the bottom, cause most are set right below the surface, and top of trigger is an obstruction w trigger wires coming out of that, but if that rat is cruising right below surface of ice, and trigger if bent slightly at a v shape, it hits trigger w chest/side and doesnt refuse. Ive seen it. More than once.

I have watched many times medium and small rats get most of the way thru my converted Duke 160's to single springs for dens and run setting. As they do not close as tight as some brands the rat wiggle the back half of them out(but the price I paid for them used couldn't be passed for a few missed rats). Circle triggers have been a great advantage for me above water but actually allow rats farther thru trap before triggering and are often slowed closing by vegetation or soft bottoms. Standard "V" for me(underwater).

I have cought more Incidental mink and muskrat in 330's set for beaver and otter.With circle triggers.Then any other trap.

330 with circle triggers is my favoret bottom edge trap.

I have never caught a mink in a 330...lots of rats but never a mink. I can honestly say, I've only caught a handful of mink in a 160. Most all of my conibear mink have been from 110 with dinner bell triggers set specifically for mink.

In today's market, I'd have to say I'm happy about missing mink. However, I want the peace of mind to know that I'm picking up everything that swims through my trap.

When I was trapping $100.00 otter and $30.00 beaver why would I what to be plugging up my traps with $4.00 rats and $6.00 mink. LOL

Back then...rats were $10 and mink were $25

How circle triggers perform is as dependent on their sizing to trap as anything else IMO. How well a 3", 4" or 5" circle trigger works in say a 5x5 varies greatly depending species most sought. All my circles are custom made from bicycle spokes that form a complete circle. My 5x5's have 4.5" opening, 6x6's- 5", 220's-6.5", 280's- 7.5" and 330's vary by brand(I don't target otter them). All only reduce opening by about 10%. If I am concerned about travel thru I squeeze circle into an oval to reduce opening. Easy to readjust wider again. So when I use a a 6x6 in a rat run a good % can travel most of the way thru and as the circle triggers haven't proved to be enough of an advantage standard straight allows me to use them for underice bait sets as well(my preferred trap for this).

Yes. My mink & muskrat 110's are set dog on bottom with thin wire between triggers. I use thin picture hanging wire that i find cheap at flea markets