Curious as to what folks use to anchor your 330’s? Beaver chewed sticks are always handy and we’ve used 2x2. What do you guys use?

Rarely use 330's but we prefer tall H type stands on those few occasions. Those rods above the trap are great for holding dive sticks across as well since our 330's by law have to be completely submerged... and our beaver trapping consists almost 100% on bridge hopping in the spring open water, where there isn't often much natural sticks and such. We rarely use anything to tie these off with unless the water is real deep then we use a cable stake.

I dont use sticks, just dont trust em and im not wasting time looking. I prefer to cable off to trees.

Cant beat these, imo.

When I trapped In the south I used their type of tobacco sticks. They were 1X1 and about 5 foot long and when broken In too made perfect 330 stabilizers. When driven Into the ground at the right angle you could adjust the height on a BG perfectly ever time.

Depends. My traps are all rigged with about 4 feet or so of 1/8” 7x19 stainless cable. I like to put a spring clip on the swivel for clipping back on itself or attaching additional cable.

If I’m using deep H-stands, I always add an extension cable to anchor to something solid—root, tree, stake. This is a must, because my 48” stands have very short legs and they are not even close to being able to use the legs as anchors.


I prefer using the 24” stands whenever possible. They have long legs, and if there is a good clay or otherwise hard bottom, I use a leg to put through my trap’s end swivel, and with the length cable I use, it works well. These are times where it takes some effort to pull the stand up vertically. That’s a safe anchor in my experience. If the bottom is soft or there happens to be something nearby that I can clip to I will. I will use a stake or extension if I need to. If I’m setting under a log, I usually clip my trap’s cable to that log. I don’t really do anything the same with every set. I decide what would be best at that time and go with it.

No expert what so ever but this is what I'm doing




Trap wired to my stabilizer and trap is cable to a 10' 3/32nd cable extension. Seems to always be a tree or something I can anchor to within 10' down here. Wraps up real nice like . Will say though I whish I had some spring clips to put on the end. Now I gotta past the trap and stabilizer though the end loops . Clip would make it much easier.
Side note I have alot of freinds who are doing more drive up trapping they things and they do about the same except that use 10' of chain, like cheap #2 import and a tbar

I will 2nd that. I use the tall and short h stands.

Those would be awesome for a shallow dam/crossover, but when you're setting a lodge/bank den in 4'+ of 33 degree water, one needs a little incentive to not get wet!

Mr. John I got something working up just for that. However hopefully I won't have to use them that much 🤣

We all got to use what works for US! I'm glad you're so innovative! Don't think I'm an expert, just referring what works here.

I just started using H stands. I have been taking on more and more beaver jobs. Some of the runs are so deep and full of beaver mud/muck, that seems to have no bottom when you step in it. Some are very hard to set with sticks and very time consuming to do so that the H stands are a blessing. I guess I am just hardheaded because today I was asking myself what took me so long to start using them.

I used to use H stands but with rising lowering river levels and gravel cobblestone bottoms I gave up on them. What works really well for me is 2 or 2.5 ft sections of 3/8ths rebar. Slender enough to fit between the jaws of Belisles and can be pounded into cobblestone-mud bottoms. I like a very sturdy supported 330 so I usually have an X of rebar (or beaver cut sticks) supporting both the lower and upper jaw of the bodygrippper. I don't pound anything in the eyehole of the spring of the body grippers like I see some trappers doing.

You will notice in this pic that the rebar that supports the lower jaws is itself supported by another stake (either rebar or beaver cut) which makes it more solid.

Back in the day, I used a lot of Leftner stabilizers, even modifying some for rocky creek beds
The old KB stabilizer sure has it's place in my book !