I forgot to install a header over the door. Can anyone tell me how to add a 2x12 without disassembling the whole front wall?

Gable end just set it on the top plate.

Hip end cut the inner stud of the doubles into a jack stud and slide it in.

Will the opening still be big enough after you add a 2x12? If so I would add one on the inside and the outside and be done with it. If the rough opening you have now is what you need for height then you have a little problem.

Explain it to me like I'm 5.



Okay that's what I was thinking. Thanks!

Move the doubled up studs on each side over 3", add (2) shoulder studs on each side, then set the header.

What type of door are you putting in?

what woodtick says

This is what I was (poorly) trying to explain.

My explanation is if the opening is correct (door unit - casing +1") and height of wall is 96"+ and standard height walk in door.

If there are other errors such as no casing or height allowance then something has to move.

Woodtick is saying basically the same thing. Though a single jack aka shoulder stud should suffice a double is better.

It looks like that is going to be a gable end (wall straight up to the rafters) and not a hip (rafters all the way around). If so you can run the header on top of the wall as long as each end of the header sits on the doubled studs. The doubled studs are carrying the weight of the header and everything the header carries. Everything below the header is just fill in and of no real weight if kept reasonable. Ideally you want the header as close to the opening (lower) to avoid excess filler and unsupported weight. But in 8'-10' walls it's not really an issue unless the openings are really wide or low.

Sorry this is my fault for not explaining. Trying to do double wide barn doors. That whole opening will be doors

The type of door has no real bearing of the header unless it is hung from the header like a roll up or those side sliding barn doors. The header carries the weight load of the structure above.

If they are side hinged the casing strength or strength of the doubles if hinged directly off the frame is what matters, particularly if the doors are heavy. The casing and/or doubles also need to be square and plumb on all planes.

If you’re making the door- just shoulder stud what you have and add header. If it’s a predetermined standard door- you’ll have to move studs.

Two 2x12's is still only 3" and your 2x4 walls are 3 1/2" so you can add a piece of 1/2" plywood between the two 2x12's to get your full 3 1/2" to match the studs.

When I was framing we made headers out of 2 2x10 with a 2x4 and nailed the open end to the top plate.

Longer spans might be flitched like you suggest. Usually 2x12 plywood sandwich glued and nailed both sides, sometimes clinched. We even did a few 2x12 1/2" steel bolted beams.

Porch beams were usually boxed 2x with 2x4 or 6 top and bottom.

Thank you for all the help guys, ill post some pictures after tomorrow and get some critique

Its how my doors are done.

If it was me and the rough opening width was correct I would cut off the two inside boards the height of the header, (turn them into cripples), set the header on them and nail it, quick and easy.

I am no carpenter but agree. Did a quick sketch of what I think was recommended.

They would become the "jack" studs, not cripples.
But is a good plan

Whether you call them jack studs or shoulder studs doesn't much matter. However, if it matters to you with this building, code REQUIRES any opening 72 inches or more in width, must have two jacks on EACH side of the opening to support the header.

What is that sitting on Donner ?