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Incompetent carpenter, help? #7741110
12/11/22 06:42 PM
12/11/22 06:42 PM
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Posts: 3,870
MN
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Donnersurvivor Offline OP
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I forgot to install a header over the door. Can anyone tell me how to add a 2x12 without disassembling the whole front wall?

[Linked Image]

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741121
12/11/22 06:46 PM
12/11/22 06:46 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,446
Georgia
warrior Offline
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Gable end just set it on the top plate.

Hip end cut the inner stud of the doubles into a jack stud and slide it in.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741123
12/11/22 06:48 PM
12/11/22 06:48 PM
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MN
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160user Offline
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Will the opening still be big enough after you add a 2x12? If so I would add one on the inside and the outside and be done with it. If the rough opening you have now is what you need for height then you have a little problem.


I have nothing clever to put here.





Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: 160user] #7741125
12/11/22 06:50 PM
12/11/22 06:50 PM
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MN
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Donnersurvivor Offline OP
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Originally Posted by warrior
Gable end just set it on the top plate.

Hip end cut the inner stud of the doubles into a jack stud and slide it in.


Explain it to me like I'm 5.

Originally Posted by 160user
Will the opening still be big enough after you add a 2x12? If so I would add one on the inside and the outside and be done with it. If the rough opening you have now is what you need for height then you have a little problem.


Okay that's what I was thinking. Thanks!

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741127
12/11/22 06:51 PM
12/11/22 06:51 PM
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Wisconsin
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1Woodtick Offline
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Move the doubled up studs on each side over 3", add (2) shoulder studs on each side, then set the header.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741130
12/11/22 06:53 PM
12/11/22 06:53 PM
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Wisconsin
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Eagleye Offline
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What type of door are you putting in?

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741135
12/11/22 06:54 PM
12/11/22 06:54 PM
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Michigan
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Trapper Dahlgren Offline
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what woodtick says

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: 1Woodtick] #7741138
12/11/22 06:57 PM
12/11/22 06:57 PM
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160user Offline
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Originally Posted by 1Woodtick
Move the doubled up studs on each side over 3", add (2) shoulder studs on each side, then set the header.


This is what I was (poorly) trying to explain.


I have nothing clever to put here.





Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741167
12/11/22 07:17 PM
12/11/22 07:17 PM
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Georgia
warrior Offline
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My explanation is if the opening is correct (door unit - casing +1") and height of wall is 96"+ and standard height walk in door.

If there are other errors such as no casing or height allowance then something has to move.

Woodtick is saying basically the same thing. Though a single jack aka shoulder stud should suffice a double is better.

It looks like that is going to be a gable end (wall straight up to the rafters) and not a hip (rafters all the way around). If so you can run the header on top of the wall as long as each end of the header sits on the doubled studs. The doubled studs are carrying the weight of the header and everything the header carries. Everything below the header is just fill in and of no real weight if kept reasonable. Ideally you want the header as close to the opening (lower) to avoid excess filler and unsupported weight. But in 8'-10' walls it's not really an issue unless the openings are really wide or low.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741169
12/11/22 07:19 PM
12/11/22 07:19 PM
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Donnersurvivor Offline OP
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Sorry this is my fault for not explaining. Trying to do double wide barn doors. That whole opening will be doors

Last edited by Donnersurvivor; 12/11/22 07:19 PM.
Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741174
12/11/22 07:25 PM
12/11/22 07:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,446
Georgia
warrior Offline
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The type of door has no real bearing of the header unless it is hung from the header like a roll up or those side sliding barn doors. The header carries the weight load of the structure above.

If they are side hinged the casing strength or strength of the doubles if hinged directly off the frame is what matters, particularly if the doors are heavy. The casing and/or doubles also need to be square and plumb on all planes.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741178
12/11/22 07:27 PM
12/11/22 07:27 PM
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Wisconsin
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Eagleye Offline
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If youíre making the door- just shoulder stud what you have and add header. If itís a predetermined standard door- youíll have to move studs.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741181
12/11/22 07:30 PM
12/11/22 07:30 PM
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Sandhills Nebraska
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Gary Benson Offline
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Two 2x12's is still only 3" and your 2x4 walls are 3 1/2" so you can add a piece of 1/2" plywood between the two 2x12's to get your full 3 1/2" to match the studs.


Life ain't supposed to be easy.
Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Gary Benson] #7741196
12/11/22 07:41 PM
12/11/22 07:41 PM
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Georgia
warrior Offline
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Originally Posted by Gary Benson
Two 2x12's is still only 3" and your 2x4 walls are 3 1/2" so you can add a piece of 1/2" plywood between the two 2x12's to get your full 3 1/2" to match the studs.


When I was framing we made headers out of 2 2x10 with a 2x4 and nailed the open end to the top plate.

Longer spans might be flitched like you suggest. Usually 2x12 plywood sandwich glued and nailed both sides, sometimes clinched. We even did a few 2x12 1/2" steel bolted beams.

Porch beams were usually boxed 2x with 2x4 or 6 top and bottom.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741211
12/11/22 07:49 PM
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Donnersurvivor Offline OP
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Thank you for all the help guys, ill post some pictures after tomorrow and get some critique

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741216
12/11/22 07:53 PM
12/11/22 07:53 PM
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Louisiana
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MattLA Offline
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Its how my doors are done.

[Linked Image]

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Donnersurvivor] #7741631
12/12/22 09:11 AM
12/12/22 09:11 AM
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If it was me and the rough opening width was correct I would cut off the two inside boards the height of the header, (turn them into cripples), set the header on them and nail it, quick and easy.

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: Line Jumper] #7741638
12/12/22 09:29 AM
12/12/22 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Line Jumper
If it was me and the rough opening width was correct I would cut off the two inside boards the height of the header, (turn them into cripples), set the header on them and nail it, quick and easy.


I am no carpenter but agree. Did a quick sketch of what I think was recommended.

[Linked Image]

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: YoteChaser1968] #7741739
12/12/22 12:27 PM
12/12/22 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by YoteChaser1968
Originally Posted by Line Jumper
If it was me and the rough opening width was correct I would cut off the two inside boards the height of the header, (turn them into cripples), set the header on them and nail it, quick and easy.


I am no carpenter but agree. Did a quick sketch of what I think was recommended.

[Linked Image]

They would become the "jack" studs, not cripples.
But is a good plan smile

Re: Incompetent carpenter, help? [Re: YoteChaser1968] #7741797
12/12/22 01:53 PM
12/12/22 01:53 PM
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McGrath, AK
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white17 Offline

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Originally Posted by YoteChaser1968
Originally Posted by Line Jumper
If it was me and the rough opening width was correct I would cut off the two inside boards the height of the header, (turn them into cripples), set the header on them and nail it, quick and easy.


I am no carpenter but agree. Did a quick sketch of what I think was recommended.

[Linked Image]



Whether you call them jack studs or shoulder studs doesn't much matter. However, if it matters to you with this building, code REQUIRES any opening 72 inches or more in width, must have two jacks on EACH side of the opening to support the header.

What is that sitting on Donner ?


Mean As Nails
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