[/quote]
3/16" quick link. When not in use, just unscrew the link and remove trap.[/quote]


You can also use a trigger snap….much faster and no tools required.

Depending on the depth you got to work with, I kept the trap chain clipped to the lock as short as I could too.

Never could bring myself to use those. I like the sleep ez-hooks myself for attaching traps to things.

I've trapped a few beaver over the years and in my experience the drowning rod is akin to the invention of the wheel. I use TS-85's that very rarely miss due to a large area coverage and holding strength and quick connects to attach. This system increases my catch significantly.

Neither can I...

One kick or snag in the wrong spot and trap and beaver is gone.

I plan on stealing The Hammer's system and completely ditching all of the temporary attachments from the trap chain to the drowning lock. I don't trust all the little doo dads to a 65 pound beaver and I despise quick links

With a square tubing style drowning lock and the right stake loop on the rod you can slide the drowning lock off of the rod over the loop. Of course this won't happen when the rod is staked down because the stake is in the way and the lock can only slide one way, but when you pull them you can slide the trap off the rod with the lock attached. Welded j hook to the lock. No fiddling with trinkets to attach your trap to the rod, just slide it on

The photos in this link are helpful. http://www.trapperman.com/trapperman/drowning_setup.html
The chain on the end of my trap has the swivel (with a hole in the top of it) seen in the middle of the three in the photo. I need to connect it to a Hagz “L” shaped lock that looks similar to the one at the bottom of the same photo. It seems that a quick link would be easiest to use to connect the two for this setup. If it rusts, I should be able to cut the link with bolt cutters. Aside from that it should make for easy removal from the drowning rod lock in the event my trap pan gets bent up and I need to swap out traps.

Take a piece of trap wax and rub it into the threads on the quick link. You will not have any rust/siezed problems.

Hagz system can eliminate that if your using the fiberglass rods. Pull stake and then lock and trap can be removed from the rods.

Yep, tried those once use quick links now. Spray with penetrating oil end of season

Yep same premise. Fiberglass rods don't work well for me, if I had very soft bottoms I would have quite a collection of them I'm sure. I am only able to use rebar drownings rods about half the time here. The other half of the time its cable drowners and concrete block due to rocky bottoms. But I sure do enjoy using them when I can

@Swamp Wolf Bought a couple and it turns out that 3/16” quick links are too fat for the holes in the top of the swivels on both of my Bridger #5 traps. Looks like I’ll have to drill larger holes in the top of the swivels. Maybe ⅛” quick links will fit, I’m just not sure if they are strong enough to withstand the twisting of multiple beavers in the process of drowning in a trap.

Put in a mid-chain swivel (if chain doesn't already have one). Connect quick link in chain end. Depending on type lock you use you, may have to drill out attachment hole on the lock.

@Swamp Wolf The chain attached to the trap has a swivel. That’s the one with the hole that the link won’t fit through. I don’t know much about half of the stuff discussed on this site or the terminology. It’s all new to me. I’ve just been shooting the beavers that I see. Shooting them seems easier for me, I just don’t know how many there are. I’m still trying to figure out this trapping stuff. The lock is a Hagz lock for drowning rods. It comes in a bag with the stop and the end that the t-bar stake secures.

Great drawings ADC

Mac

You don't need to put the quicklink in the hole in the swivel that the jhook goes in. They can go through the middle of the swivel.

Great informative post!

@sniperBBB I thought about that after my last post. I did buy a larger 1/4” link that may be a better fit that way. Thank you for the suggestion.

I have some stakes that are 46" long and salvaged from a highline wire reel....I'll use those at times on a loosely constructed dam or in very loose substrate, but most of my stakes are 24" x 1/2" rebar with a washer welded on top.