So back that the bench not what I have fire formed brass I can finally look at some stuff I need
Left if freshly formed the right is fire formed


And some head space measurement. Again I Formed this brass per the companies instructions


Vs the fire formed one


So yeaaahhh I've been bumping these back a whole 0.008 vs... you know like the 0.003 I really need

I hope that when you reload the fire formed brass, your groups tighten up. My bet is that they will.
Your extraction issues will likely go away too.

So did some seating depth testing. Seated them a bit long and went back to 26.0 GR of CFE .223 . Also for craps and giggles threw that chicom scope on and gotta say, other then the really short eye relief, ITS NOT BAD !
Next to one of my 5.56 loads

And today's set up

I kept the same powder chard though all of these .....really not liking that S-D but hay

And the target

The ones on the right was something I was trying to do with some brass that wasn't quite right but not horrible


Aaannnd as usual I drop one out the group

And all the fire formed brass. The ones with the primers up are ones with damaged rims or similar they where either the hottest load or the messed up brass

Look what finally came in the mail !

Hay question, what's everyone doing as far as shot place with .17 cals ?

I always shot for the ribs, behind the shoulder. My load ran a 25 gr hp at 3993.

.17 cal has limitations for sure.
I have 2 .17_.204s. Facing straight on or broadside, pure MAGIC!
running texas heart shots, not so much. Just not enuff oomph to be reliable.

Okie dokie thanks for the info

So spend a few hours today freezing my butt of messing with these 25gr's and BLC-2 . Using .17-223 load data from hodgdons website and .....egh.


Much better SD but the groups just weren't much at all. Like 1.5" decided I only have a few days left till I have to go back to work so went back loaded up more 20 grainers with CFE .223 and got the NV set up


Fyi make sure you double check even with that one shot zero . But think th Las one ded center shows it works with a little patience lol

One thing Wolfie, those VMax bullets traveling that fast are most likely not going to be a consistent killer on coyotes.
Those are prairie dog bullets. In my opinion.

Check out Saubier.com. lots of great info for small caliber stuff.

And why is that ? Too explosive when it comes to on bone impact?

Yes. Vmax bullets are typically accurate ( and about the cheapest $ bulk) bullets to find.
Hence the popularity.
I've had to follow WAY to many coyotes in deep snow wearing snowshoes to finish them off from guys shooting them.
Mostly the lite for caliber ones.

Shooting targets,crows,chucks, have at it.

So, in that case probably need to take shots that make use of that explosiveness and say way from bones......
Hmmm
If these are right neck shots would be best and a high shoulder should knock out their nervous system enough to at least anchor them decent .

NOSLER ballistic tips work. VMAX sucks big time.

Boones old posts about 22-250 boat tail bullets vs vmax... maybe when it was him complaining about .204's I think. what are those ones called... Berger. Berger boat tail bullets are supposed to be the way to go.

You can read about .204 vmax splashing on entry. i.e. hit bone on entry, bullet breaks apart, no penetration kinda stuff.

I went with the bergers after reading all of that.

I do think I remember that , ole Boone knows what he's talking about when it comes to coyotes killing . Real professional learned a lot just following him on FB. Was looking at those Bergers though.

Nosler doest make .17 cal bullets far as I know?

As for you Wolfie, you seem to be having fun just playing/ shooting. Stick with the heavier vmax and bang away.

O I'm having fun shooting but I've been hunting with it too. Just not much luck. Gonna go out again in a few minutes actually


As far as nosler

I apologize if annealing collapsed your brass. I have only tried it taking 06 to 270 and 308 to 243. Worked fine on those two.

So decided to give annealing a try
Now just to be clear why I don't to begin with. KAK has stated that they made this up to be a simple deal for gus wanting to get into a .17cal centerfire. In their videos they started all you need to do to convert bras is a single run into the resizing die. I wanted to test those claims. I I just went and ran buckwild on some more advanced stuff then what would just kinda nullify that . It's like if I company said their after market engine will fit perfectly in a car but before you even tired to test fit you start cutting out the engine bay to make room or something. If that makes sense . Now according to them you want once fired brass because it's work hardened for initial forming. They said they initially tried annealing their brass but it resulted in too many crushed necks due to the soft annealed brass collapsing. And I can post a link to the video where they explain this if anyone wants.

Ok anyhow the test. Not the most scientific, took 20rd of brass from the same bag I've been working with. It's all been de capped cleaned ect . All same head stamp 23 Lake city 5.56. Made sure to chey they all had good looking case mouth and the like.
As far as the annealing just some Podunk flame change annealing with a 3/8's deep socket on a drill and a propane and torch. Angle isn't the best but trying to hit just that neck shoulder junction like your supposed to. Would have used my 750 tempilaq but I couldn't open the jar at all, and flame change always seems to work decent.

So our if the 20 , ten where annealed ten where not .


Interesting enough all the annealed ones seemed to have this same mark/pattern on them


So the it's the same as it's always been since I stared this . No de capping die, shoulder getting bumped back to 1.450". Hand lubing each one individually with imperial sizing wax

So our if the ten in annealed ones I got one crush


And the annealed ..... Well




All ten annealed ones where crushed , not one properly converted case....so yeahhhh, look like KAK was right with this one lol. Will be ordering a .20 cal due soon though as a step die.just gotta see what will work best , looking at possibly a .204 Ruger die or a .20 practical. Well see