The boxes the guy used for mink on port protection had the bottom piece of wood way longer than the rest of the box. I assume that way the critter isn't trying to go into a box and step onto something new all the same time. Since the bottom was longer they were already physically on that part and now stepping on it and into it at the same time isn't an issue which gets rid of one of the variables that would keep them from committing to going in. Just something I noticed.

My biggest problem wasn't so much refusals, but reaching in and catching them by the foot. I had the bait way back in the box. That happened more with a 160 than a 220.

With upwards of 10 or more coon coming to the barn each night to steal the cat food, I had a high population to study to watch how they worked buckets, boxes, cages, etc. Dozens of game camera videos. With horizontal buckets or boxes, the vast majority of them would setup just outside the box and reach in if they could. They were not eager to stick their head in either of those.

What they could be trained to do and would enter every time with no hesitation was the same box set up in a vertical position with bottom entry of box only 4 to 5 inches off the deck. Have to crawl under the lip to rise up in the box to get to the bait on a shelf up top. To get in they have to lead with their head while pushing forward with back feet and pushing up with their front. Stock triggers of 160 or 220 offset about 1/3 off to one side. Perfect neck strike every time. Leave that baited box out to train them to enter and when you are ready to start the harvest you will have traps to clear the next morning.

Bonus to this orientation is far fewer chances of an incidental catch.

I'm no coon trapper but caught a few many years ago. Coon make beat down trails when they are feeding on a static food source.I remember when I was a kid guys catching them in #2 LS traps in trails between hardwood bush and cornfields,creeks etc
I would blind set 220s in the trails if there are trails I imagine you could hammer more of them quicker with gang sets on each trail and a couple day check schedule,and not have to haul around a bunch of big boxes.
Boxes would be good at proven annual catch locations away from the trails at their denning or feeding areas,like traditional cubbies as long as you could leave the boxes in place season to season
Regardless of the species you target,locating and Identifying travel routes pays off.

Lots of great advice. One of our major issues here is they wander so much making defined trails difficult to find. Deer hogs and small game use the same trails alot of the time. If i find one coming out of a thicket that is like a tunnel I blind set it and generally do well. I guess I should have mentioned it to start with I’m just starting to use 220s because I figured out that I could dispatch them without them destroying the hog set. So actually I’m just getting started with 220s. The camera info I have is limited and after seeing some of the replies could be deceiving. What I hope to do is be able to catch them close to the snare without shutting the spot down. I’m thinking if I put them in way before deer season then the deer will get used to them being on the food plots and when the coons show up which they always do once the feeders start running I can eliminate them during deer season instead of waiting till after deer season when they disperse. Still learning and needing suggestions. So far a lot of great info and ideas

Keep in mind people posting have different factors that impact their coon catch in boxes/buckets like coon size, populations, regulations, habitat and food sources.

I will Law Dog fortunately in Ms we have some of the most liberal trapping regs in the country. Our coons run medium to small compare to say Illinois coons. Where I’m at we definitely have numbers. They haven’t been controlled in quite some time due to low trapper coon hunter numbers and there is no market for our smaller coon. Going to spend the off season going to school on otter and beaver as those numbers have exploded as well.

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Where I have DPs and buckets(w/160s) together, I always get coons in the DPs and grinners in the buckets.

Bump

I remember this pict...at th a t time I said WOW

This time I said WOW

Do you have to deal with any free roaming dogs?

Just once

I built one the other day down and dirty. I use old pallets a few cuts with the chain saw and four screws. Can set 110 or 220 etc. inside run chain out through the existing gaps staple to frame.
Forgot to add these will take a 110 or 220 just have to flip to the side for a 220.

These work good free wood and fast and if you entrance the 220 just use the gaps that are already in the pallet you are using.

That is 175 mixed 220 and 160 boxes. I ran 250 at that time. I learned you notice patterns real fast with that many traps out. I was running over 400 sets counting trail set body grips, foot holds and snares.

I read or heard years ago if you raise the entrance 3-4 inches off the ground coon are more willing to go in, also applies to H stands. Has worked for me.

I am wondering if there is refusals if it is more the trap than it is the box. This is something I think of always. Seem like some years the boxes work well and some not so much.

Great Thread

Those are nice deep slots. Do you set the trap all the way forward?

During Dove season I was hunting a corn field that was over run with coons. Went back 2 weeks ago , set a dozen traps and never got a hit. What happened to the coons? The cornfield still has ears of corn.